{"id":9131,"date":"2010-08-08T12:18:59","date_gmt":"2010-08-08T18:18:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9131"},"modified":"2026-04-05T19:30:21","modified_gmt":"2026-04-06T01:30:21","slug":"joanns-ranch-o-casados-restaurant-espanola-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9131","title":{"rendered":"JoAnn’s Ranch O Casados Restaurant – Espa\u00f1ola, New Mexico"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"\"<\/a>
JoAnn’s Ranch O Casados in Espa\u00f1ola<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Shortly after it was announced that Mary & Tito’s<\/a> was selected as a 2010 recipient of the James Beard Foundation’s “Americas Classic” award, the brilliant Albuquerque Journal<\/a> columnist Leslie Linthicum<\/a> wrote a gilt-edged tribute to my very favorite New Mexican restaurant.\u00a0 Indicating “the red chile at Mary & Tito’s Cafe brings grown men to poetic fevers<\/em>,” she quoted something I wrote in my review which she must have found to be sufficiently rhapsodic to warrant mention. <\/span><\/p>\n

For anything I write to be considered even remotely “poetic” by the scintillating columnist is a great honor.\u00a0 Compared to the spell-binding prose and incisive insight which typify Leslie’s columns, my writing is prosaic and dim-witted.\u00a0 It’s akin to comparing Michelangelo’s work on the Cistene Chapel to the asymmetrical graffiti under an overpass…with me the tagger.\u00a0 i don’t always\u00a0 start off agreeing with Leslie’s viewpoints, but\u00a0 so admire her sharp wit and sound-reasoned logic in forming her positions that she often sways my position.\u00a0 She is simply a magnificent writer, my favorite columnist on any periodical anywhere (with apologies to the great Tom Cole)!<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
The interior at JoAnn’s Ranch O Casados<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In a 2008 column published on Thanksgiving Day, Leslie waxed eloquent in her inimitable manner about some of the things she’s for which she’s most thankful, including a New Mexican restaurant in the beautiful Espa\u00f1ola valley. She wrote, “the physical address of Joann’s restaurant is in Espa\u00f1ola. But at the precise point near the end of your meal where red chile and honey hit your tongue at the same time, I think of Joann’s as the place where heaven meets Earth<\/em>.” How is that for lyrical prose!<\/span><\/p>\n

The actual place where heaven meets Earth may well be the world-famous Casados Farms<\/a> in Guique, New Mexico just north of Okay Owingeh Pueblo.\u00a0 That’s where most of the chile Leslie loves so much comes from.\u00a0 That’s also where JoAnn’s Ranch O Casados obtains its blue corn.\u00a0 In fact, Casados Farms is where JoAnn’s acquires most of its fresh, locally grown produce.\u00a0 The soil along the lush Rio Grande Valley is fecund and rich, sustaining a way of life that is quickly disappearing as Espa\u00f1ola moves further away from its agrarian roots.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Salsa in a unique bowl with red, blue and yellow corn chips<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It is reputed that JoAnn Casados personally roasts and peels all the chile used in her eponymous restaurant, most of it from chile lines descendant from native chile crops.\u00a0 She knows old-timers can tell the difference between commercially grown chile and chile grown locally.\u00a0 She also laments the fact that the three-centuries old tradition of growing chile in the Espa\u00f1ola valley is dying out despite the increased demand.\u00a0 Farmers can command a premium for locally grown chile, but JoAnn considers it a worthwhile investment.<\/span><\/p>\n

JoAnn’s Ranch O Casados has been serving the beautiful Espa\u00f1ola valley since 1984.\u00a0 Its first home was near the Big Rock Shopping Center where the restaurant took residence at the former site of a Sears catalog shop.\u00a0 JoAnn’s moved to its current, more spacious location in 2003.\u00a0 The parking lot seems to be perpetually crowded, but wait times at the commodious restaurant aren’t long.\u00a0 The interior at JoAnn’s has an eclectic Alpine Lodge meets Tudor meets New Mexican meets American Indian motif.\u00a0 Tables and benches are carved from blond knotted pine.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Huevos Rancheros with red and green chile<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I don’t know if the bumper on Leslie’s vehicle has a “[Heart] at first site” bumper sticker, but you can spot them all over Espa\u00f1ola–on pristine Range Rovers and on careworn pick-up trucks which are hosed down only to remove salt residue after a snowfall.\u00a0 On a wall near the “please wait to be seated” sign, there’s a poem paying loving tribute to JoAnn’s.\u00a0 Though not as eloquent as had Leslie written it,\u00a0 the affection is clearly conveyed.\u00a0 It’s also conveyed by empty plates being carted away, some so clean it may leave you wondering if the last remnants of chile were licked away.<\/span><\/p>\n

The menu is a compendium of Northern New Mexico favorites: enchiladas, tacos, tamales, burritos, sopaipillas and even two staples made from corn–posole and chicos, the latter of which is rarely seen south of Santa Fe.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 The entire menu is available all day long and includes a wide selection of vegetarian options popular among Espa\u00f1ola’s Sikh community.\u00a0 Alas, the menu does commit the cardinal sin of spelling New Mexico’s official state vegetable “chili,” a spelling I’ve programmed my spell-checker to sneer at.\u00a0 At least Leslie spelled it correctly as she counted it among her blessings.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Carne Adovada with two eggs over medium and papitas<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Perhaps how it’s spelled isn’t nearly as important as how it tastes and that’s where JoAnn’s excels.\u00a0 You’ll get a sense of that when salsa and chips<\/em> (unfortunately not complementary) are delivered to your table\u00a0\u00a0 Instead of on a separate bowl or ramekin, the salsa is served in an oversized “bowl” fashioned out of a crispy yellow corn tortilla.\u00a0 The salsa wouldn’t register too high on the Scoville scale, but it is quite good, an artisan amalgam of jalapenos, white onions, tomatoes, cilantro, garlic and salt.\u00a0 The red, yellow and blue corn chips are lightly salted and large.\u00a0 Unfortunately you’ll run out of salsa before you run out of chips.<\/span><\/p>\n

Huevos Rancheros<\/em> are a specialty at JoAnn’s–corn tortillas topped with two eggs any style, shredded melted cheese, and red and green chile with a garnish of lettuce and tomato.\u00a0 Two sides–pinto beans and papitas–accompany the huevos.\u00a0 Neither the red or green chile are especially piquant, but both, especially the green chile, are swoon-worthy.\u00a0 The green chile has a distinctly sweet-piquant flavor with little acidity.\u00a0 Neon green and finely chopped, it’s as pretty as it is delectable.\u00a0 The red chile is deeply red and rich with a slightly acidic aftertaste.<\/span><\/p>\n

The pinto beans are wonderful, whole beans prepared perfectly with just a little broth to keep them moist.\u00a0 The papitas are delightful little cubes fried to a golden sheen.\u00a0 They’re reminiscent of French fries cut into cubes, but with a better flavor.\u00a0 You won’t miss Spanish rice in the least.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Sopaipillas…and JoAnn serves real honey<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Another specialty of the house is JoAnn’s carne adovada<\/em>.\u00a0 For breakfast it’s available with two eggs any style accompanied by papitas and pinto beans.\u00a0 JoAnn’s doesn’t skimp on portion size and that holds true with the carne adovada.\u00a0 You’ll be served a profuse portion, more than most can finish in a single sitting.\u00a0 Large, whole chunks\u00a0 of tender pork marinated in delicious red chile with a sweet, earthy flavor make this an addictive rendition of the popular pork dish.\u00a0 The red chile is even less piquant on the adovada, but it’s also more delicious.<\/span><\/p>\n

Diners have their choice of tortillas or sopaipillas.\u00a0 The sopaipillas are large, puffed-up pockets of delicious dough just waiting for you to tear off a piece so they can release their steamy fragrance upwards.\u00a0 JoAnn’s serves real honey, the thick, sweet, wonderful stuff, not the honey-flavored sugar some restaurants serve.\u00a0 This is another difference-maker among many that account for JoAnn’s popularity.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
<\/span> Pancakes<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

JoAnn’s breakfast entrees include pancakes, nearly plate-sized orbs of golden deliciousness just waiting for butter to be slathered on and to be doused with syrup (or better yet, with honey). You can also assuage your sweet tooth with flan, ice cream, cake, sopa bread pudding (often called caprilotada) or pie.\u00a0 A display case of desserts practically greets you at the door, as does JoAnn herself.<\/span><\/p>\n

Now\u00a0 I understand how Leslie Linthicum can be so thankful for JoAnn’s Ranch O Casados…even though I can’t convey it as eloquently as she did.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

JoAnn’s Ranch O Casados<\/strong>
\n938 North Riverside Drive
\nEspa\u00f1ola, New Mexico<\/strong>
\n(505) 753-1334
\nWeb Site<\/strong><\/a>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 8 August 2010
\n# OF VISITS<\/strong>: 2
\nRATING<\/strong>: Very Good<\/span>\u00a0<\/strong>\u2013\u00a0Good to very good food; generally solid; delivers consistent quality, strong technique, and a comfortable, enjoyable dining experience
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Carne Adovada, Huevos Rancheros, Pancakes, Salsa and Chips, Sopaipillas<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Shortly after it was announced that Mary & Tito’s was selected as a 2010 recipient of the James Beard Foundation’s “Americas Classic” award, the brilliant Albuquerque Journal columnist Leslie Linthicum wrote a gilt-edged tribute to my very favorite New Mexican restaurant.\u00a0 Indicating “the red chile at Mary & Tito’s Cafe brings grown men to poetic fevers,” she quoted something I wrote in my review which she must have found to be sufficiently rhapsodic to warrant mention. For anything I write to be considered even remotely “poetic” by the scintillating columnist is a great honor.\u00a0 Compared to the spell-binding prose and incisive insight which typify Leslie’s columns, my writing is prosaic and dim-witted.\u00a0 It’s akin to comparing Michelangelo’s work on the…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":9135,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[540,302,112,5631],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9131","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-breakfast","category-espanola","category-new-mexican","category-very-good"],"yoast_head":"\nJoAnn's Ranch O Casados Restaurant - Espa\u00f1ola, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9131\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"JoAnn's Ranch O Casados Restaurant - Espa\u00f1ola, New Mexico - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Shortly after it was announced that Mary & Tito’s was selected as a 2010 recipient of the James Beard Foundation’s “Americas Classic” award, the brilliant Albuquerque Journal columnist Leslie Linthicum wrote a gilt-edged tribute to my very favorite New Mexican restaurant.\u00a0 Indicating “the red chile at Mary & Tito’s Cafe brings grown men to poetic fevers,” she quoted something I wrote in my review which she must have found to be sufficiently rhapsodic to warrant mention. For anything I write to be considered even remotely “poetic” by the scintillating columnist is a great honor.\u00a0 Compared to the spell-binding prose and incisive insight which typify Leslie’s columns, my writing is prosaic and dim-witted.\u00a0 It’s akin to comparing Michelangelo’s work on the…\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9131\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/nmgastronome\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2010-08-08T18:18:59+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2026-04-06T01:30:21+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/08\/JoAnn04.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"444\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"310\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Gil Garduno\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Gil Garduno\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"8 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9131#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9131\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Gil Garduno\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/423b9c3eeeb199e43ab4f1f584fa67bf\"},\"headline\":\"JoAnn’s Ranch O Casados Restaurant – Espa\u00f1ola, New Mexico\",\"datePublished\":\"2010-08-08T18:18:59+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2026-04-06T01:30:21+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9131\"},\"wordCount\":1446,\"commentCount\":2,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9131#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2010\\\/08\\\/JoAnn04.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Breakfast\",\"Espa\u00f1ola\",\"New Mexican\",\"Rating: Very Good\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9131#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9131\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9131\",\"name\":\"JoAnn's Ranch O Casados Restaurant - 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