{"id":9343,"date":"2010-09-11T21:33:59","date_gmt":"2010-09-12T03:33:59","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9343"},"modified":"2018-07-19T19:42:50","modified_gmt":"2018-07-20T01:42:50","slug":"a-taste-of-soul-albuquerque-new-mexico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9343","title":{"rendered":"A Taste of Soul – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\"\"<\/a>
<\/span> A Taste of Soul Restaurant on San Mateo<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

“1 think it is important to point out that barbecued ribs,
\nblack-eyed peas, grits, and collards may,
\nin fact, be a choice dish to many black Americans.
\nBut it also sounds pretty darn good to me, a white man.
\nI grew up on soul food. We just called it country cooking.
\nMy grandmother cooked it. My mother cooked it<\/em>.
\n– Lewis Grizzard<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

American writer and humorist Lewis Grizzard, a fiercely proud Southerner, delighted in assailing Yankees, liberal politics, feminists and political correctness.\u00a0 It was the latter which rankled his ire and prompted a rather incisive diatribe from which the above quote is taken.\u00a0 Grizzard, who even named his beloved Labrador “Catfish,” rose up in defense of barbecued ribs, black-eyed peas, grits and collards when they were pulled from the menu of an automobile plant in Illinois because of complaints that these dishes stereotyped “black dining habits.”<\/span><\/p>\n

Having lived in Mississippi for eight years (1987-1995), I can attest to the fact that these dishes stereotype the dining habits of most Southerners, not specifically those of black diners.\u00a0 Those dishes were inculcated into our dining habits, too…and we didn’t care if the name on the restaurant’s marquee read “soul food,” “Southern food” or “country cooking.”\u00a0 All that mattered is that these dishes were hearty and delicious.\u00a0 Almost invariably they were. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
<\/span> The interior at Taste of Soul<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There are several things about living in the Deep South we don’t miss in the least: the oppressive humidity; evacuating our home every time a hurricane approached the Gulf, and not knowing what, if anything we’d come back to; the scarcity of green chile…\u00a0 What we have missed immensely is the excellent soul food and its plenitude.\u00a0 Here, with apologies to Lewis Grizzard, I actually distinguish “soul food” from “country cooking.”\u00a0 The difference, we found was sometimes attitudinal…and yes, racial.\u00a0 Not racist!\u00a0 Racial! Soul food reflects the cultural spirit and culinary traditions of black Americans.<\/span><\/p>\n

In the fifteen years since our return to the Land of Enchantment, we’ve seen the much ballyhooed launch of several promising soul food restaurants only to be left disappointed scant months later when those restaurants closed.\u00a0 For the most part, these restaurants served very good to excellent soul food, at least one restaurant being on par with some of the best we experienced on the Gulf Coast.\u00a0 Considering the Duke City’s broad-minded acceptance of diverse culinary cultures, it’s always surprising…and sad, to see soul food restaurants go by the wayside.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
<\/span> The “Mess-Around-Basket” (Half Order) – 1 fish, 1 chicken, 6 fried oysters, fried pickles, French fries<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When Shannon McKigney, a New Orleans native, gave Albuquerque’s newest (as of July, 2010) soul food restaurant a rousing endorsement, we had to try it.\u00a0 Like me, Shannon doesn’t mind waiting for food to be prepared from scratch if the wait proves worthwhile.\u00a0 In her estimation, the food at the aptly named “A Taste of Soul” is “totally worth it.”\u00a0 A Taste of Soul cafe is situated at the former home of Quesada’s New Mexican Restaurant<\/a>, a magnificent shooting star which fizzled away much too quickly, but left an indelible impression.<\/span><\/p>\n

A Taste of Soul is a family-owned and operated cafe with Alvin Bailey at the helm.\u00a0 Before striking out on his own, Alvin\u00a0 spent the better part of two decades working at several hotel restaurants including the Pyramid and Hotel Albuquerque.\u00a0 Originally from Texas, he prepares some of the very best home-cooking style soul food we’ve had in fifteen years–and that includes soul food from several highly regarded\u00a0 soul food restaurants in Las Vegas, Nevada and Chicago.\u00a0 Alvin told us there’s more to come.\u00a0 He plans on introducing soups and gumbos to the menu over time, describing them as mouth-watering.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
<\/span> Tasty Chicken and Waffles–Fried chicken and home-made buttermilk waffles<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The restaurant’s mission statement, printed on the menu, should heighten your expectations: “We put our hearts and soul into the food and service that is provided<\/em>.”\u00a0 Isn’t that an approach every restaurant should take?\u00a0 Service is cordial and accommodating, friendly without being obtrusive.\u00a0 Alvin’s lovely better half is A Taste of Soul’s hostess and ambassador, a gracious lady who makes all guests feel welcome.\u00a0\u00a0 The ambiance is also quite welcoming, starting from the cranberry red exterior that makes the restaurant very conspicuous in an earth-tone dominated street. <\/span><\/p>\n

Signage on the roof is nondescript, while signage on an exterior wall depicts a mammy, the most enduring racial caricature of African American women.\u00a0 The interior walls are also cranberry as are the table cloths, atop of which are\u00a0 condiments which grace many a Southern table: ketchup, Trappey’s hot peppers, barbecue sauce in a plastic squeeze bottle and McIlhenny brand hot sauce.\u00a0 A wooden planked floor painted beige lends a creaky character.\u00a0 Only about a dozen tables adorn the restaurant, but they’re well-spaced for privacy.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
<\/span> Mac-N-Cheese<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A Taste of Soul is open six days a week: Tuesday through Sunday and features daily soul soup specials ranging from meatloaf, corn and mashed potatoes on Tuesday to smothered oxtails with rice, greens and black-eye peas on Sunday.\u00a0 All daily specials come with cornbread or white bread and a beverage–either tea (sweetened or unsweetened) and Kool-Aid.\u00a0 There are only ten items on the menu, all prepared to order so it will take time for you to be served.\u00a0 The kids’ menu includes a free drink or a scoop of ice cream.\u00a0 A number of side orders and a la carte items are also available.<\/span><\/p>\n

Hearty appetites will gravitate to “The-Mess-Around-Baskets<\/em>,” available in half-order or full-order sizes.\u00a0 The full-order, we were told, feeds three or four people.\u00a0 A half-order would easily feed two.\u00a0 The half-order includes one fish (either catfish or red snapper), one piece of chicken, six fried oysters, fried pickles and French fries.\u00a0 The platter is brimming with delicious fried goodness, but also includes sliced dill pickles, onion slices and a hot Louisiana cherry pepper.<\/span><\/p>\n

The catfish is sliced into several long strips (they must start with a very large catfish) and coated in a light cornmeal batter. The golden-hued batter provides a textual contrast to the light, flaky catfish which maintains a nice juiciness despite being fried and battered. The chicken is moist and delicious, surprisingly meaty considering the piece I got was a rather large wing. The fried oysters are crunchy on the outside and explode with characteristically briny flavor within, just the way oysters should taste. Fried pickles are a Southern delicacy and an acquired taste with a delicate coating complementing the tangy dills. The mountain of fries is best eaten when dipped in a ketchup-hot sauce mix.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
<\/span> Peach Cobbler<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Perhaps the most popular soul food combination across the fruited plain is the marriage of crispy, Southern-style fried chicken with waffles<\/em> draped in maple syrup and butter.\u00a0 A golden, orb-shaped waffle sliced into four pieces, has just a slight crunch that belies a silken texture.\u00a0 The syrup, flavored with butter and vanilla, is served warm, covering an already warm waffle with even more comforting heat. The combination of sweet and savory makes for an excellent meal, better than an entree and dessert pairing. <\/span><\/p>\n

From the single items menu, a real winner is the Mac-N-Cheese<\/em>, a bowlful of rich, creamy macaroni and cheese, a complete antithesis of the popular child’s favorite that comes from a box. This Mac-N-Cheese is served hot, but not quite bubbly so you can dig right in. It’s a melt-in-your-mouth macaroni and cheese dish that exemplifies the best of “down home” mac-and-cheese with none of the pretensions high-end restaurants like to add. <\/span><\/p>\n

The dessert menu features peach cobbler, sweet potato pie, banana pudding and a green chile apple pie.\u00a0 The peach cobbler<\/em> is fabulous, some of the very best we’ve had in the Duke City.\u00a0 It is served warm and is redolent with the spicy fragrance of cinnamon and cloves.\u00a0 The crust is buttery, fluffy and light while the peaches have a fresh and moist deliciousness.\u00a0 The cobbler is neither too sweet nor is it replete with pectin. \u00a0\u00a0 The foundation of the sweet potato pie <\/em>is a light, flaky crust.\u00a0 The sweet potato pie is very nicely sweetened with just a hint of nutmeg.\u00a0 Served warm, the only way to improve it would have been with a dollop of vanilla ice cream for which I forgot to ask.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
<\/span> Sweet Potato Pie<\/span><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Famished masses longing for a taste of soul food will find none better than at A Taste of Soul!\u00a0 This is a crowd-pleasing, appetite satisfying restaurant that will hopefully be making Duke City diners smile for a long time.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

A Taste of Soul<\/strong>
\n513 San Mateo, N.E.
\nAlbuquerque, New Mexico<\/strong>
\nLATEST VISIT<\/strong>: 11 September 2010
\n# OF VISIT<\/strong>S: 1
\nRATING: *<\/strong>
\nCOST<\/strong>: $$
\nBEST BET<\/strong>: Chicken and Waffles, Mess-Around-Basket, Sweet Potato Pie, Mac-N-Cheese, Peach Cobble<\/span><\/p>\n

\"A<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

“1 think it is important to point out that barbecued ribs, black-eyed peas, grits, and collards may, in fact, be a choice dish to many black Americans. But it also sounds pretty darn good to me, a white man. I grew up on soul food. We just called it country cooking. My grandmother cooked it. My mother cooked it. – Lewis Grizzard American writer and humorist Lewis Grizzard, a fiercely proud Southerner, delighted in assailing Yankees, liberal politics, feminists and political correctness.\u00a0 It was the latter which rankled his ire and prompted a rather incisive diatribe from which the above quote is taken.\u00a0 Grizzard, who even named his beloved Labrador “Catfish,” rose up in defense of barbecued ribs, black-eyed peas,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":9352,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[440,577,262,542],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9343","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-albuquerque","category-closed-in-2010","category-closed","category-soul-food"],"yoast_head":"\nA Taste of Soul - Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9343\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A Taste of Soul - Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED) - Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"“1 think it is important to point out that barbecued ribs, black-eyed peas, grits, and collards may, in fact, be a choice dish to many black Americans. But it also sounds pretty darn good to me, a white man. I grew up on soul food. We just called it country cooking. My grandmother cooked it. My mother cooked it. – Lewis Grizzard American writer and humorist Lewis Grizzard, a fiercely proud Southerner, delighted in assailing Yankees, liberal politics, feminists and political correctness.\u00a0 It was the latter which rankled his ire and prompted a rather incisive diatribe from which the above quote is taken.\u00a0 Grizzard, who even named his beloved Labrador “Catfish,” rose up in defense of barbecued ribs, black-eyed peas,…\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9343\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:author\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/nmgastronome\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2010-09-12T03:33:59+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2018-07-20T01:42:50+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/TasteOfSoul03.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"444\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"333\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Gil Garduno\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Gil Garduno\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"8 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9343#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9343\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Gil Garduno\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/423b9c3eeeb199e43ab4f1f584fa67bf\"},\"headline\":\"A Taste of Soul – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)\",\"datePublished\":\"2010-09-12T03:33:59+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2018-07-20T01:42:50+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9343\"},\"wordCount\":1531,\"commentCount\":12,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9343#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2010\\\/09\\\/TasteOfSoul03.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Albuquerque\",\"Closed in 2010\",\"Gone But Not Forgotten\",\"Soul Food\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9343#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9343\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.nmgastronome.com\\\/?p=9343\",\"name\":\"A Taste of Soul - 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My mother cooked it. – Lewis Grizzard American writer and humorist Lewis Grizzard, a fiercely proud Southerner, delighted in assailing Yankees, liberal politics, feminists and political correctness.\u00a0 It was the latter which rankled his ire and prompted a rather incisive diatribe from which the above quote is taken.\u00a0 Grizzard, who even named his beloved Labrador “Catfish,” rose up in defense of barbecued ribs, black-eyed peas,…","og_url":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9343","og_site_name":"Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog","article_author":"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/nmgastronome\/","article_published_time":"2010-09-12T03:33:59+00:00","article_modified_time":"2018-07-20T01:42:50+00:00","og_image":[{"width":444,"height":333,"url":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/TasteOfSoul03.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"Gil Garduno","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"Gil Garduno","Est. reading time":"8 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9343#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9343"},"author":{"name":"Gil Garduno","@id":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/#\/schema\/person\/423b9c3eeeb199e43ab4f1f584fa67bf"},"headline":"A Taste of Soul – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)","datePublished":"2010-09-12T03:33:59+00:00","dateModified":"2018-07-20T01:42:50+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9343"},"wordCount":1531,"commentCount":12,"publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/#organization"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9343#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/09\/TasteOfSoul03.jpg","articleSection":["Albuquerque","Closed in 2010","Gone But Not Forgotten","Soul Food"],"inLanguage":"en-US","potentialAction":[{"@type":"CommentAction","name":"Comment","target":["https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9343#respond"]}]},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9343","url":"https:\/\/www.nmgastronome.com\/?p=9343","name":"A Taste of Soul - 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