Gil's Thrilling (And Filling) Blog

Follow the Culinary Ruminations of New Mexico's Sesquipedalian Sybarite. 841 Restaurant Reviews, More Than 6500 Visitor Comments…And Counting!

Rocco’s Pizzeria – Rio Rancho, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Rocco's Pizzeria (formerly Pettito's) in Rio Rancho

In an age of sensory bombardment, we all occasionally experience a phenomenon known as an “earworm.” Earworm is a literal translation of a German term for a song (particularly an annoying one) stuck in someone’s head. For some it’s the Gilligan’s Island theme song. For others, it might be “It’s a Small World” or the Beatles’ “Yellow Submarine.”

In the 1960s, one television commercial was responsible for an earworm that afflicted many of us in the Albuquerque viewing area. It was a commercial for Peppino’s Pizza Joint and the words to its annoyingly catchy jingle were “The p-pizza’s p-perfect at Peppino’s, the p-pizza’s p-perfect at Peppino’s p-pizza joint.” I’ll bet some of the more “seasoned” (geriatrically advanced like me) members of the Duke City Fix’s Born in ‘Burque group reading this post are cursing me because now they can’t get that jingle out of their minds.

Professional sports team memorabilia from Pennsylvania adorns the walls at Petitto's

Peppino’s Pizza Joint and that catchy jingle have been gone now for close to forty years, but the jingle is reborn every time I passed by or thought about Petitto’s Pizzeria in Rio Rancho. Petitto’s, which opened in 2007, was ensconced in a fairly nondescript strip shopping center on Southern Boulevard and was not at all easy to spot.  I’m writing in the past tense, of course, because in 2011, Pettito’s was renamed Rocco’s Pizzeria where it now shares signage and space with Esperanza’s Cocina Mexicana.  Esperanza’s offers a pretty ambitious menu considering the relatively cramped quarters and the fact that the only visible ovens in the store are pizza ovens.  Apparently the Mexican food is prepared in the back room.

Rocco’s is wholly unlike the phalanx of New York influenced or New York style pizzerias in Rio Rancho. The state’s third most populous city is often referred to as “Little New York” on account of the hundreds of New Yorkers who moved to the then untamed western fringes overlooking the Rio Grande. In fact, you might call Rocco’s “Pennsylvania” style pizza (though the marquee calls it “Eastern style pizza.”

Cheese bread from Petitto's

Rocco’s proprietor is blessed with the perfect name for an Eastern pizzeria. Though originally from New Jersey, Rocco Petitto is as Pennsylvania as they come as evidenced by his pizzeria being a veritable shrine to the keystone state’s professional sports teams. Framed under glass are autographed jerseys worn by some of the best professional athletes to play for the Pittsburgh Steelers or the Philadelphia Eagles, Phillies or 76ers. The jerseys of Donovan McNabb, Pete Rose and others along with signed pictures of other Pennsylvania sports luminaries flank flat-screen televisions poised above the two seating areas.

Rocco’s is primarily a take-out enterprise with eat-in accommodations for just a handful of pizza patrons. It’s locally owned and operated competition for Domino’s, Papa John’s, Little Caesar’s and other chain restaurants of that ilk. Its pizza is better than the aforementioned corporate giants can offer.

Philly Cheesesteak Pizza, a rich, cheesy indulgence

Philly Cheesesteak Pizza, a rich, cheesy indulgence

The menu includes four signature pizzas, which may seem pretty standard (meat lovers, veggie, the works), but look closely and you’ll see that its Hawaiian pizza is called the “Porker” and it includes not only ham and pineapple (pretty traditional), but also almonds and cinnamon (non-standard). Specialty pizzas include a buffalo chicken pizza complete with chicken and wing sauce and dressed with your choice of bleu cheese or ranch, a Philly cheese steak pizza and a White Pizza (olive oil instead of tomato sauce).

Pizza comes in sizes ranging from 10-inches to 24-inches. If neither the signature or specialty pizzas will do, Rocco’s has about a dozen toppings from A (anchovies) to T (tomatoes). You can also add these toppings to the calzones which start pretty basic with mozzarella and ricotta cheeses.

Philly Cheese Steak : Philly Meat mixed with American Cheese (Add Mushrooms, Onions or Bell Peppers at no extra charge)

Philly Cheese Steak : Philly Meat mixed with American Cheese (Add Mushrooms, Onions or Bell Peppers at no extra charge)

The menu also includes six- and twelve-inch hoagies served on an Italian roll with oregano, lettuce, tomato and onions; hot sandwiches (including a Philly cheese steak, albeit made with American cheese instead of Cheese Whiz), calzones and salads. Other offerings include buffalo wings (hot or mild), breadsticks and cheese bread.

The cheese bread is bubbling with herb infused melting cheese. The first thing you’ll notice is that the crust, both on the cheese bread and on the pizza, is wholly unlike New York style crust. For one thing, it barely has a hint of char and its crust is chewy and dense with nary any crispiness. Its outside edges don’t bulge out excessively and as such, are lacking in the airy holes so prevalent in some New York style pizza. In fact, on the pizza, the outside edges are not that much thicker than the pizza itself.

A beauteous Italian sub

A beauteous Italian sub

Anyway, the cheese bread is, well…cheesy. Melted to a perfect consistency (so it’s neither stringy or oily), the cheese and bread combination are best right out of the oven when hot. Unable to finish all six slices, we tried the next day to eat the cheese bread cold and were disappointed. The cheese bread is served with your choice of pizza dipping sauce or Ranch dressing. We found the pizza dipping sauce, not that it was needed when the pizza was hot, over-salted. A good substitute is Catalina dressing, a sweeter rendition of French dressing. The sweetness of the Catalina is a flavorful contrast and complement to the cheese.

Now Catalina dressing on cheese bread or pizza is either going to repulse you or you’ll love it instantly. We were turned on to it while living in Mississippi when about the only pizza we could get was from one of the aforementioned chains. The truth is, good pizza should not need Catalina dressing or any other flavor boost. Good pizza should be able to stand out on its own without help.

The American Hoagie

The American Hoagie

I’m torn between calling the pizza at Petitto’s good pizza or dismissing it altogether as not to my liking. The fact that we employed the old reliable Catalina dressing has me leaning toward the latter. The ingredients (pepperoni, sausage, ground beef, onions, mushrooms, green peppers and onions) on “The Works” were all fresh and delicious, but the saltiness of the tomato sauce detracted from our ability to discern other traditional pizza seasonings such as oregano and basil. The saltiness may have been an anomaly and we just hit the pizzeria on an off-day. A second pizza was in order to know for sure.

My second pizza at Rocco’s was a Philly Cheesesteak Pizza and it may have proven that my inaugural pizza experience at Rocco’s was an anomaly.   This pizza is essentially the restaurant’s chewy pizza crust topped with the fabulous, creamy white American cheese used on Philly Cheesesteak Sandwiches, topped with the other sandwich ingredients: mushrooms, onions and bell peppers.  This is a very rich indulgence sans tomato sauce, but it’s not a traditional “white” pizza.

Neither is the Buffalo Chicken Pizza (pictured below) crafted with the ingredients that grace the world-famous Buffalo chicken wings, save for the bones, of course.  The chicken is tender and mostly white meat.  The buffalo sauce has a penetrating piquancy, a surprising bite though not anything a native New Mexican can’t handle easily.  As with other Rocco’s pizzas, the crust is delicious and the cheese is of very high quality.

 

Buffalo Chicken Wing Pizza

One thing that is certain–Rocco’s offers the one of the two best Philly Cheese Steaks I’ve had in New Mexico (the other is at Itsa Italian Ice).  You might think that’s not a tremendous accomplishment considering the dearth of good Philly Cheese Steaks–and not only in New Mexico, but this one could compete in Philadelphia.  Heresy, you say.   I’ve had Philly Cheese Steak sandwiches in some of the City of Brotherly Love’s most hallowed pantheons of cheese steak and found many of them were more hype than substance.  I’m talking rubbery, tasteless bread; razor-thin shards of leathery meat, and gloppy Cheez-Whiz with onions.

Rocco’s Philly Cheese Steak is artfully crafted with thinly shaved shards of beef (imported from Philadelphia) and a creamy white American cheese that has an almost sensual relationship with the meat.  That means every bit of the meat that’s intertwined with that cheese is terrific…so much so that more of the cheese might have made it a new favorite guilty pleasure.  In fact, I recommend you order a double portion of cheese as my friend Paul Lilly does.  Add caramelized onions, mushrooms and small bits of green pepper on a twelve-inch hoagie roll and you’ve got a Philly that’s better than (forgive the sacrilege) some of best I’ve had in Philadelphia.  In its annual food and wine issue for 2010, Albuquerque The Magazine featured Petitto’s Philly CheeseSteak in a feature entitled “An Ex-Pat’s Guide to the Food You Miss.”

Meatball

The hoagie roll, by the way, is made by Amoroso’s Baking, which “makes the rolls that make Philly sandwiches famous.”  Rocco’s tried using hoagie rolls baked in the Albuquerque area, but–and even the proudest Duke City residents will agree–our water’s “chemical” taste influences so much of what is prepared here.  Rocco’s would rather spend a little more on outstanding Philadelphia quality bread than compromise a great Philly cheese sub with an inferior bread.

If your preferences lean toward unheated sandwiches, Rocco’s has several options for which you should forego any thoughts of visiting Subway, the ubiquitous chain presence that has dominated the sandwich market for years.  Rocco’s Italian hoagie is better by several orders of magnitude than any sandwich I remember having at Subway back in the dark ages when I wasn’t enlightened and occasionally visited chain restaurants.

As with all Rocco’s hoagies, the Italian is served on an Italian roll with oregano, tomato, lettuce, tomato and onions, but what makes it a sandwich masterpiece is how the bread and condiments meld with provolone cheese, Genoa salami, Capicola ham, pepperoni and olive oil.  The bread is soft, but substantial enough to handle the moistness and volume of the ingredients, all of which are top notch.  The meats are delicious and of very high quality.

The American Hoagie is another 12-inches of sandwich deliciousness.  Crafted with American cheese, Genoa Salami, ham and turkey ameliorated with lettuce, tomatoes and sliced onion, it’s the type of sandwich you might make for yourself if you had access to the terrific ingredients from which this sandwich is made.  Those ingredients are packed tightly into the pillowy soft bun.  Rocco’s doesn’t scrimp on ingredients or on flavor.

Rocco’s Meatball Sub, a twelve-inch behemoth made with seven meatballs, several thick slices of provolone, a dusting of parmesan and a tangy tomato sauce all laid out in the wonderful hoagie rolls from Amoroso’s Bakery is one of the better meatball subs in the Duke City area.  The meatballs, though not made on the premises, are quite good with little discernible filler.  It’s the sauce, a celebration of the acidic qualities of tomatoes, that makes the meatballs zing.

Rocco’s has several menu options which warrant return visits even if it means not getting that annoying earworm out of your head.

Rocco’s Pizzeria
2418 Southern Blvd
Rio Rancho, NM
LATEST VISIT: 4 April 2011
1st VISIT:  9 October 2008
# OF VISITS: 8
RATING: 19
COST: $$
BEST BET: Cheese Bread, Philly Cheese Steak, Italian hoagie, American Hoagie, Meatball Hoagie, Buffalo Chicken Pizza

Rocco's Pizzeria on Urbanspoon

  • I-95Dave says:

    Best Philly and Italian Hoagie outside the Delaware valley hands down. Thanks for bringing a little taste of Philly to NM.

    April 24, 2009 at 12:02 AM
  • sam says:

    I eat there at least 2 or 3 times a month. Great takeout deals and we refer all our friends.

    July 8, 2009 at 7:19 PM
  • Kacie says:

    The philly cheesesteak pizza is amazing.

    July 25, 2009 at 3:20 PM
  • Paul says:

    I have been there a couple of times, and both times I was there I ordered the Philly Cheesesteak Sub. I thought the there was a generous helping of meat, and the bread is delicious. I really like the flavor of the cheese, and I plan to order it next time with “Double Cheese”. I have tried a slice of the cheesesteak pizza, and after savoring the cheese there, I know I will need to order double cheese on the sub.

    March 9, 2010 at 12:18 AM
  • Sr Plata says:

    Having grown up in Los Angeles, I spent much time finding and eating at Cheesesteak restaurants. I never gave it a 2nd thought that there may be a place in the Southwest that actually made good Philly Cheese Steaks; well I was wrong! Some friends at work shared a little known secret (at least not known to me) of a pizza place in Rio Rancho, NM called Petitto’s Pizzeria that made a Philly Cheese Steak. I never noticed the building when I drove on Southern Blvd. I finally made it there a few weeks back and am writing cause I have been back a few more times. It the chese steak sandwich has got to be one of the best I have found in either state! They serve a very large sandwich with a lot of lean beef piled up (and no grease) with bell pepper, onion, and of course I asked for green chile and thinly chopped jalepeno. This has become a favorite to my in-laws as well. I think of trying the Cheese steak pizza but I always break down and get the sandwich, why change when something is that good. Soon will try the Caramel Apple Calzone to complete the meal. The one suggestion I would make is for the restaurant to offer sides such as French Fries or Chips to accompany the sandwich; the drawback may be I might not be able to finish the full sandwich (that would be a shame…).

    May 3, 2010 at 10:50 AM
  • Sr Plata says:

    Petitto’s Call To Arm!!!

    All, I have heard from one of the employees that Petitto’s ownership is changing hands and am greatly concerned we may lose one of the best Philly Cheese Steaks on this side of the Mississippi!! The new owners are to take over very soon and I hope they know the Philly Cheese Steak is THE Flagship of not just Rio Rancho but New Mexico. I rate it better than many Cheesesteak restaurants I have been able to eat at in my treks to find the best in Los Angeles, CA.

    I ask all who fear for your stomachs to make it known to the new owners that we can’t allow the menu to lose such specialties. If anything, it can gain. Such as adding Chips or French Fries or anything to the cost of the Sandwich. That would be exhilerating!!!

    If the owners are aware of this blog, I beseech you to reply and tell us your vision and plans for the future. And if the previous owners read this, tells us where to for you now and should we follow the flavor…

    Thanks,
    Sr. Plata

    November 12, 2010 at 9:29 PM
  • Dame says:

    I went there earlier this week for one of their amazing Philly cheese steaks and it looks like they already switched owners. According to the little sticker they placed on my order they are now being called Rocco’s Pizzeria – same staff, same food. Indeed, when I got home and took that first bite…it was actually better than before! The thinly sliced beef had a little bit of grease dripping, which got part of the bread a bit soggy but I ate my sandwich so quickly that it didn’t really spread. Since that’s all I’ve ever eaten from Petitto’s/Rocco’s, I can’t really say that everything tastes any different. But I think the Philly cheese steak is here to stay.

    March 11, 2011 at 4:33 PM
  • Sr Plata says:

    As Dame said, the name has chanced to Rocco’s. Its on the front of the building. Only way to know about Petittos is they have a shirt for sale inside and they still have menus with that name. They also have combined the store with a Mexican restaurant called ‘Esperanza’s Cocina Mexicana’ which looks good, will try the Steak and Egg breakfast burrito, hopefully same philly steak meat!! Cheesesteak still excellent, big and loaded (+ chopped jalepeno and green chili added). Was willing to share but Sensei had a prior commitment and couldnt partake. Still one of the best on the westside and I too hope it doesnt change. Looks like the same cook makes the cheesesteak now as before so lets make sure he stays! Still curious why the name change and the value that brings but I wish them continue prosperity…

    March 21, 2011 at 5:56 PM
  • Sr Plata says:

    It was a sad day to come a few nights avians see the sign up and notifying Sensei. This was one of the best cheese steak places I have frequented and am bummed. I always get concerned when a restaurant changes names changes names or locations and that usually means failure in my book. I am glad there are other tasty places but for us with big appetites, we will be sad…

    December 1, 2011 at 9:29 AM
  • Barbara says:

    Oh, RIP Rocco’s with your fantastic cheesesteaks and very good pizza.

    December 2, 2011 at 7:14 PM

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

*