The choices New Mexicans make–particularly in the ballot box–have always baffled me. We complain about being last in every quality of life measure, but continue to vote the way generations (including deceased) have voted. It’s the very definition of the timeless axion: “Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.” I’ve had this discussion many times, usually with highly educated and erudite frriends and family, and despite my best attempts at presenting logical, sensical reasons for change, all that’s ever accomplished is hurt feelings. It’s become very obvious that opinions and decisions are based on emotion and group affiliation, not necessarily our notion of facts.
Why is it so hard to convince others to change their minds and hearts? That’s a question philosophers, psychologists and even curious hoi polloi like me have pondered over for millennia. Perhaps never has that question been brought to the fore as during recent political events. Sadly, the question takes on even more of a personal bent when you believe someone else’s views betray something inherently rotten about their character—or when someone else believes the same about yours. Rightly or wrongly, we’re wired to believe people’s views are barometers of their moral conscience.
Psychologists have long posited the existence of a confirmation bias which is a tendency to seek out information that confirms our existing views and to avoid information that disconfirms them. Confirmation bias has exploded with the advent of social media. Specific algorithms present information that appeals to our tastes. Finding that information confirms our beliefs and rewards our dopamine receptors. Studies have also shown that when presented with information we don’t like or with which we disagree, our brains literally shut off and ignore it. That accounts for the reason we as humans tend to “hang out” with people who are like us and believe the same things we do. Doing so has the effect of creating an illusion that everyone in the world thinks just like you do, and that people who feel differently are in the minority and, frankly, are wrong.
So why (other than my disagreement with New Mexico’s voting choices) this diatribe? I actually have a friend (that may be hard to believe) who will dine at only a very limited number of restaurants. These few eateries satisfy his “eat to live” bias. When it comes to dining, he has no sense of adventure whatsoever. Nothing you can say, no logic you can present will ever change his mind (many have tried). Among his personal biases is the notion that Pizza Hut bakes the very best pizza in the world. Yes, Pizza Hut. To argue otherwise would be risking the terminus of a friendship that is otherwise pretty solid.
For everyone else–those of us constantly looking for the next new bright and shining object–the Duke City has recently experienced the launch of several new and quite good pizza restaurants. You will likely glean my own personal bias toward pizza by reading this missive. Among the “newbies” are Johnny’s Pizza and Tony’s Pizzeria. Though both are arguably (for those like my friend who will disagree) very good. Tony’s early success even warranted a mention in a New Mexico Magazine article titled “3 Pizzerias Heating Up The Scene.” (The other two pizzerias, by the way, are Tender Fire Kitchen in Santa Fe and Fire and Ice in Silver City.) Tony’s Pizzeria was also spotlighted in a New Mexico Magazine feature titled “Hot Restaurants to Try Right Now.”
Perhaps more than any new pizzeria in memory, Tony’s Pizzeria has the pedigree to not only succeed, but to be transcendent. The “Tony” for which this pizzeris is named is Tony Netherly (formerly of Artichoke Cafe). His business partner in the venture is Izz Rivera, the brilliant mastermind behind The Shop. Now that’s a formidable pedigree! This dynamic duo launched their chef-driven concept in February, 2026. Their goal is to put “New Mexico-style” pizza on the map. There won’t be any shortage of elevated specials (such as ahi tuna crudo) on the menu. New Mexico Magazine recommended a Frito pie pizza (which wasn’t on the menu during our inaugural visit.
If location and previous occupancy bodes well for Tony’s, the space it occupies was previously home to Mesa Provisions where two-time James Beard “Best Chef – Southwest” finalist Steve Riley has been wowing diners for years. Before that, the location was home to Canvas Artistry. Vestiges of previous occupants aren’t readily apparent. Tony’s stamp on the space may best be exemplified by an image on one wall depicting a roadrunner sprinting away with a slice of pizza in his beak. That image is also found on shirts worn by staffers. Seating is more functional than it is comfortable, but most of us don’t expect comfortable seating at a pizzeria. Your exterior views are of Central Avenue and its cast of characters.
What we do expect out of pizzerias is great pizza. As with our voting preferences, our personal definition of “great pizza” is dependent on confirmation bias. Growing up 25 miles south of Taos, New Mexico, the first “great” pizza I ever had was from Pizza Hut. Unlike my friend, however, I quickly graduated to superior pizza when the Air Force graciously sent me to Massachusetts. Tony’s pizza is a superb pizza. As a lifelong and proud (despite disagreeing with so many of our elected officials) New Mexican, I’m especially grateful that Tony’s is not yet another claimant to “New York-style.” New Mexican-style pizza will be a force with which to reckon.
Tony’s “mission statement” (or at least what the menu tells us) is “Whole pies, subs stacked high, and the kind of hospitality that feels like someone’s cooking for you in the back because they actually care.” It’s all about the pizza at Tony’s: “Our dough is honest, our toppings are real, our red sauce is sacred, and everything we serve is made with intention. High quality, classic, comforting, and cooked with heart — Tony wouldn’t have it any other way.” Pizza is indeed front-and-center on the menu though the antipasti, subs and dolci menus are pretty formidable, too. “Round pies” are available in fourteen-inch (eight slices) and personal pan eight-inch (four slices) sizes. Alternatively, you can also have an “Abuelitas” pie which is a ten-by-ten-inch pizza. Gluten-free pizza is available.
Among the four tempting antipasti on the menu are a very New Mexican green chile burrata dip (pizza bread, green onion, sour cream) which my Kim wouldn’t have been able to eat because of its piquancy. Our hostess assured us the meatballs (beef, pork, mortadella, cooked tomato sauce, Parmesan) wan’t hot. Hmm, maybe to New Mexicans. The meatballs were too hot for my Kim (likely chile pepper flakes) which meant all six orbs were mine. Kim very much enjoyed the accompanying pizza bread, four slices of absolutely delicious bread. (That bread, by the way, can be found on the counter where you place your order. It’s outstanding!). Alas, the meatballs were somewhat desiccated despite being covered in sauce. A saucy exterior doesn’t necessarily mean the interior will be moist.
Pepperoni is overwhelmingly America’s favorite pizza topping (not everyone has access to green chile). Surveys reveal that nearly two-thirds of Americans prefer the slightly spicy, salty meat on their pizza. My preferences lean toward exotic ingredients (that ahi tuna crudo sounds good) but our comely hostess raved about Tony’s pepperoni pizza (tomato sauce, mozzarella, red onion and oregano). If New Mexico-style pizza means a nearly flat (small cornicione) pie with lots of char and personality, I could become partial to that style were it not for Thicc Pizza Co’s transformative Detroit-style pizza. My pie was delivered mere seconds after being extricated from the oven. It was plenty hot. It was also penty delicious. Two semi-tire-sized pieces of pepperoni per slice draped across the pizza. There’s a reason pepperoni is America’s favorite topping. Despite its waifish thinness, it’s bursting with flavor. This pie is very much on the thin side (don’t we all wish we were), the antithesis of my cherished Detroit-style pizza. I could only polish off four slices, but enjoyed every single bite of yet another outstanding pizza in Albuquerque.
Though most people stereotype Chicago-style pizza as a a massive (casserole-sized) knife-and-fork deep-dish pie, my Kim’s favorite Chicago pizza is a thin-crust pie with lots of fennel and sausage. It’s also my preference when we’ve visited the City of Big Shoulders. Tony’s has a pie just for her and others with similar preferences. It’s a sausage and fennel pizza (tomato sauce, fennel sausage, mozzarella, zucchini, roasted fennel, chile flake). Though my Kim asked for the chile flake to be excluded, that message apparently didn’t make its way to the pizzaiolo. A couple of bites was enough for her to know she wouldn’t be able to finish her pizza. So…I gobbled one delicious slice and saved three for a future meal. Yeah, I’m a cad, but a well-fed one.
Besides, my Kim’s favorite item on the menu was always going to be dessert (dolci) no matter what else is on the menu. New to the menu is a root beer float made with Sprecher’s root beer. If you’ve never had Sprecher’s root beer, you’re in for a treat. It’s widely regarded as one of the very best root beers in the fruited plain. Crafted in small batches using a rare fire-brewing method, it’s effervescent and refreshing. Pour it onto a high quality vanilla bean ice cream and it’s a pairing made in dessert Heaven. A little bit of root beer creates a lot of creamy fizziness. Even if your favorite pizza comes from Pizza Hut, your favorite root beer float will come from Tony’s.
My dessert choice was one of three daily specials and admittedly a dish I’d never had. It’s called tortoni and was available in two flavors: peppermint and peach. Tortoni is a rich, chilled, no-bake dessert, a process which involves whipping egg whites with powdered sugar, folding them into whipped cream flavored with vanilla and almond extracts, then freezing the mixture in individual paper cups or ramekins. Tortoni has a dense, mousse-like gelato texture. Tony’s peppermint tortoni is terrific–as cold as ice cream, but much lighter. My Kim finished off most of mine.
Despite the screed with which I began this review, I would never begrudge anyone for choices with which I wouldn’t agree–unless, of course, you don’t agree Tony’s Pizzeria is outstanding.
Tony’s Pizzeria
3120 Central Avenue, S.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 503-7028
Website |
LATEST VISIT: 5 July 2026
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$$
BEST BET: Pepperoni Pizza, Sausage and Fennel Pizza, Meatballs, Peppermint Totino, Sprecher’s Root Beer Fload
REVIEW #1528