L&L Hawaiian Barbeque – Rio Rancho, New Mexico

It’s amusing to reflect back on what children of my generation considered funny during the prehistoric days before Nintendo, iPhones and even before color television.  As children were apt to do, we found humor in terms related to scatalogical and bodily functions such as caca, poo poo, pee pee and moco.  The latter is the Spanish term for booger.  Our reaction to learning that Hawaiians actually ate “loco moco” (which translates from Spanish to  “crazy boogers”)  would have beeen simultaneously raucous and nauseating.  Sure, most of us grew up eating chicharrones, menudo and morsillas, but only a crazy person would admit to eating boogers.

Hawaiians do indeed eat loco moco, but it has nothing to do with boogers, crazy or sane.  Loco moco is a contemporary (circa 1949) and simple Hawaiian dish consisting of rice, a hamburger patty, and an egg smothered in a savory gravy.  As to the genesis of the name, the loco moco was named for a Hawaiian boy nicknamed “Loco.”  “Moco” was added simply because it rhymed and sounded mellifluous.  During my perigrinations across the country, I’ve had loco moco a number of times.  Though palatable enough, it never struck me as particularly memorable.  “If only,” I ruminated “green chile could be substituted for the gravy.”

Stasia Ybarra, co-owner of L&L Hawiian Barbecue in Rio Rancho must have been on the same wavelength.  When corporate chefs came to the City of Vision to train the staff, she worked with them to incorporate a distinct New Mexico local touch–green chile–to the menu.  You’re not likely to find much green chile in Hawaii as shipping costs are somewhat prohibitive. Hawaii may be idyllic and beautiful, but can it really be Paradise without chile?  Rio Rancho’s L&L franchise launched in March, 2025, preceding an Albuquerque franchise by several weeks.  New Mexico is fortunate to have them though admittedly with my aversion toward chain restaurants, I might never have visited L&L were it not for the presence of green chile.  As oft stated here, green chile improves the taste of everything.

Whether it’s curiosity, green chile or the opportunity to experience Hawaii without the expense of traveling to the Islands, Rio Rancho’s L&L franchise has been teeming with hungry patrons.  Stasia, originally from California, told us it’s been that way since day one.  She’s well-staffed for the crush with a small army of affable and capable servers.  L&L is ensconced in a Lilliputian lair with limited seating, but take-out has been robust.  You’ll espy many of the trappings of the island Paradise throughout the restaurant.  As a lexicologist, my favorite island touch was the spelling “Hawai’i.”  According to the National Park Service: “The name of the state, Hawaii, is not written with an ‘okina between the two “i”, because our Statehood Act in 1959 used the spelling “Hawaii.” An Act of Congress is required to “correct” the name of the state to Hawai’i. Thus, the name of the state is Hawaii, while the name of the island of the same name is Hawai’i.

According to Stasia, L&L stands for Lee and Lee, the names of the restaurant founders.  L&L got its start fifty years ago in Kalihi, Hawaii, as a small shop but has since grown into more than two-hundred locations across the fruited plain.  Initially a successful chain of drive-in restaurants throughout the Hawaiian islands, L&L expanded to the mainland in late 1999 when the restaurant’s unique Asian and American fusion was brought to California.  In addition to the co-mingling flavors of Hawaii, “every L&L meal is infused with the warmth of aloha – the legendary spirit of welcome that makes every guest feel at home.”

There’s a commonly held misconception that Hawaiians eat SPAM for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks.  Oh, wait.  That may not be such a misconception.  Some Hawaiians do each SPAM for breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks.  In 2015, National Geographic claimed Hawaii consumes an estimated five-million pounds of SPAM a year.  Per capita, that works out to about six cans a year for every man, woman and child–a significant caloric overachievement in that each 12-ounce can is supposed to contain six servings and each serving includes 25-percent of the fruited plain’s daily fat intake and 33-percent of a day’s sodium.  In markets across the Aloha State, you’ll find such SPAM variants as Honey SPAM, SPAM with Bacon, even Hot and Spicy SPAM.  SPAM is even served in local McDonald’s and Burger King chains.

At L&L, cans of SPAM are more prevalent as a decorative touch (stacked on the counter where you place your order) than it is on the menu.  In addition to the ubiquitous SPAM Musubi, SPAM is an available protein on Saimin (ramen).  Green chile infused loco moco isn’t the only item on the menu sure to please Haole (a Hawaiian term for non-native Hawaiian or Polynesian people, often referring to white people.)  There are several categories of entrees on the menu: Combination Plates, Beef & Pork Plates, Chicken Plates, Seafood Plates, Lighter Options, Bowls, Musubi, Saimin, Burgers & Sandwiches, and a menu for Keiki (kids).  It’s no stretch to declare the menu has something for everyone.

Once they finished snickering at the term, New Mexicans (at least sophomoric ones like me) will be very pleasantly surprised to find just how tasty the green chile loco moco (savory hamburger patties over rice, topped with brown gravy and two fresh fried eggs) is.  Stasia and the L&L corporate chefs got the flavor and aroma of New Mexico’s official state vegetable right.  That green chile even has more piquancy than served at far too many New Mexican restaurants.  Ask (as I did) for extra green chile so that it covers everything on your plate.  Yes, even the macaroni salad.  Much as I seem to loathe Spanish rice, the “Hawaiian” rice (when covered with green chile) was a delight as were the hamburger patties.  Instead of fried eggs, I asked for scrambled eggs and was very happy with the choice.  Mind you, without the green chile, I would have found this plate boring (my assessment of all loco moco plates I’ve had).  Green chile runs through my blood and henceforth through every loco moco plate I order.

For those of you with a carnivorous bent and no declared preferred protein, the BBQ Mix (BBQ Beef, BBQ Chicken, BBQ Short Ribs) is an option sure to please.   My favorite among the tasty troika is the BBQ short ribs which are reminiscent of Korean galbi.  As with galbi, a sweet and sticky barbecue sauce is generously applied.  Hawaiian barbecue sauce tends to be slightly sweeter than Southern barbecue sauce.  Teriyaki sauce and pineapple juice are usually discernible.  Such is the case with the sauce used on the beef and chicken.  The BBQ Mix plate is very generous, enough for two.

Call this blasphemy if you will, but L&L Hawaiian Barbecue is one of my favorite restaurants in Rio Rancho for great green chile. There’s so much more on the menu than green chile–even for those of us who might not order loco moco because the name rekindles memories of childhood.

L&L Hawaiian Barbecue
2340 Grande Blvd. S.E., Suite D
Rio Rancho, New Mexico
(505) 600-3092
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LATEST VISIT: 14 June 2025
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$
BEST BET:  Green Chile Loco Moco, BBQ Mix,
REVIEW #1473