“Don’t go and cook Indian food if you never cooked Indian food, you know?”
~Wolfgang Puck
Those who can’t do, write. The pan is mightier than the pen. Pick your aphorism. When it comes to cooking Indian food, both certainly apply in my case. Every effort to prepare even the most basic of Indian dishes is a painful reminiscence of the Chemistry courses which confounded, confused and frustrated me in equal measure. Sure, covalent bonds made sense (because they were easy), but the math-based system of writing complex chemical equations may as well have been Klingonese. So, too, are most recipes for Indian dishes.
Yes, a passable phalanx of premixed “instant” Indian food exists, but what’s the fun in preparing that? Aspiring Indian food cooks (and masochists like me) prefer to prepare everything from scratch. That includes grinding and roasting ingredients for our own garam masala, an essential Indian spice mix which Epicurious considers “the Indian equivalent of French herbes de Provence or Chinese five-spice powder.” Somehow, my mix always has the taste appeal of a lethal bleach and ammonia combination. After years of trial and failure, I’ve arrived at the painful realization that I may never be able to cook Indian food.
For every chemophobic simpleton (like me) who will never “get” Chemistry, there’s a brainiac like my friend Schuyler who could probably figure out the formula for eternal youth but as a bona fide cerevisaphile, would rather pursue the formula for the perfect home-brewed beer. For every inept and incompetent kitchen bumbler like me who can’t figure out Indian cooking, there’s someone like Alonna Smith who’s not only mastered it, but believes it’s simple enough for even someone like me.
Some of you might recognize Alonna’s name from the thoughtful and insightful comments she contributes to Gil’s Thrilling… Some of you might even know that in September, 2019, Alonna launched a wonderful blog called My Indian Stove. If you didn’t know that, let me tell you what you’re missing. My Indian Stove is the gentle hand-holding those of us need who believe cooking Indian food is too complicated and calls for too many ingredients. There’s love and respect in Alonna’s writing, an easy flow that inspires you to read further. Her detailed, easy-to-follow instructions may inspire even me to attempt Indian cooking again. Until when that happens, it’s heartening to know I can find great Indian food at restaurants such as Taste of India.
Taste of India launched in 2017 on Juan Tabo just north of Indian School. It’s situated in the same shopping center which once housed Rutilio’s New Mexican Foods. As with almost every Indian restaurant in the city, its specialty is the cuisine of Northern India which the marquee subtitles “Cuisine From the Heart of India.” The east-facing eatery is more colorful, maybe more beckoning than other Indian restaurants. You might not even notice understated ambiance considering the dining room’s cynosure is the very popular buffet.
That buffet is a popular draw, an “Indian Food 101” course for diners who don’t have the time or inclination to explore the menu. Ideally it should be an introductory offering that inspires diners to venture beyond the buffet. Admittedly I started off that way, but have since ordered exclusively from the menu. My Kim, however, loves the buffet. She loads her plate with enough tandoori chicken to fill a dozen coops and always has the mango custard. At Taste of India, complimentary naan accompanies the buffet. It’s not part of the buffet ensemble. Instead, one of the restaurant’s genial servers will ferry over a basket of regular or garlic naan (your choice) to your table. As a courtesy, I always ask about the propriety of sharing the naan when one of us doesn’t have the buffet. Invariably the answer is “yes,” but you should always ask. The naan, by the way, may just well be the very best in New Mexico. It’s outstanding!
Those of us who prefer ordering from the menu might even find some heretofore unknown items. There are plenty of the “usual suspects” too: the vibrantly-colored tandoori-oven-roasted chicken, lamb, shrimp and fish dishes we all love; traditional vegetarian and non-vegetarian curry dishes that explode with flavor; delicate, irresistible breads; fluffy rice and mixed rice biryani dishes; soups that are not only fun to say (mulligatawny), but soulful and deeply satisfying; and some of the most unique and tempting desserts offered by any culinary culture.
Whether you go for the buffet or order off the menu, not to be missed is Taste of India’s mango lassi served over ice. We order it when our server delivers menus to our table. Mango lassi is a very refreshing, absolutely delicious Indian yogurt-based drink made by blending ripe mangoes with yogurt, water (or milk) and sometimes sweetener. Think mango smoothie. It’s a staple in Indian cuisine and one of the very best beverages any time of year. Taste of India’s mango lassi is thicker than most, indicative of the use of mango pulp. As with so many items on the menu, it’s at or near the top of the pantheon of beverages in Albuquerque.
21 January 2026: The very first time I heard the term “papadum” as a food item, I associated it with the “other Indian culture”–Native American. That shows what a poor etymologist I am. Papadum is an offering from the Indian subcontinent. New Mexicans might even consider it the Indian version of chips and salsa. Papadum is a very thin, very crispy dic-shaped wafter typically made from seasoned dough, black gram flour, lentils, rice or chickpeas. These versatile snacks are either deep-fried, roasted over an open flame or microwaved to achieve its texture. Papadum is typically served with chutneys. Be forewarned, these brittle beauties can’t hold Gil-sized scoops of chutney.
21 January 2026: Who will ever forget the hilarious Seinfeld episode which introduced the world to the Soup Nazi. Especially funny was Newman’s ecstatic reaction at having secured a bowl of mulligatwawny. Yes, mulligatawny sounds like an Irish term, but this absolutely delicious elixir is another gift to the world from India. Taste of India’s chicken mulligatawny (a warming blend of chicken, lentils and Indian spices; nourishing, hearty and full of depth) is superb. It’s prepared to your preferred spice level on a scale of one to ten. Even for fire-eaters, anything over seven is a challenge. On a blustery, cold winter day, Taste of India’s chicken mulligatawny is the equivalent of New Mexico’s sacrosanct green chile stew. It’s soul-warming, a bowl of comfort and indescribably delicious. It’s the best in New Mexico.
4 January 2019: If you’ve never explored Indian breads beyond the de rigueur naan, you’re probably not alone. It’s a challenge to get past the leavened, tandoor oven-baked flatbread. My excuse is that there are so many different types of naan (Taste of India offers fou: plain, garlic, spinach and keema) that you can find enough diversity within just the naan offerings. Besides, why would you ever want to deprive yourself of something as absolutely mouth-watering as the keema naan (stuffed with minced lamb meat and spices). It’s among the very best naan we’ve ever had. The lamb is akin to the shaved lamb you usually find in gyros–not so much in flavor profile, but in how thin it’s sliced. Naan remains my favorite bread of any culinary culture, even over New Mexican flour tortillas. Yes, that’s heresy, but you’ll understand if you have the keema naan.
4 January 2019: My Kim laughed at my lack of currency with contemporary pop culture when I asked “Isn’t Josh Rogan some Hollywood actor?” as I pointed out a dish called “Rogan Josh.” “That’s Seth Rogan,” she corrected me. At any regard, it was a dish neither of us had seen at any Indian restaurant. That was reason enough for me to order the Lamb Rogan Josh (braised lamb chunks cooked with a gravy of browned onions, yogurt, garlic, ginger and aromatic spices such as cardamom and cloves). Translating roughly to “red lamb,” this delectable stew is an amazing revelation. More than most Indian dishes, the tanginess of the yogurt comes through, giving the gravy a slightly sour but absolutely delightful profile. The lamb is unbelievably tender, the result of slow cooking. Ladle it over the light, fluffy rice and you’re sure to be transported to swoon city in short order.
21 January 2026: Among the unique offerings at Taste of India is chicken mango curry. Ordinarily you don’t see the pairing of fruits with curry. Curry is almost always used with proteins and (or) vegetables. Mango, which has been described as “the fruit that makes other fruits look like they’re not even trying” is often referred to in India as “the king of fruits.” Mangoes are native to India. My friend Tushar raves about mangoes in India being far superior to any mangoes you’ll find at your neighborhood grocery store. I love mangoes so much that a trip to India is hopefully in the cards for me.
Chicken mango curry at a spice level of five should be just about right even for those timid of tongue. It’s a wonderful marriage of sweet mangoes, pungent curry and large pieces of chicken with wonderful Indian spices. It’s served with rice so naturally I poured the curry dish over the rice as I would do with Thai curry. Our server indicated that’s what most people do. It’s kosher (fit or proper, not Jewish). There’s only one nit about this dish (and it’s a small one). It’s that the chicken is served in rather large chunks. Had it been cut into smaller bits (as in the Mulligatawny) the dish would have been even more spectacular…and it’s hard to imagine it being any better.
21 January 2026: Service at Taste of India is exemplary. Servers visited our table frequently to ensure our dining experience was to our satisfaction. Even the restaurant owner stopped by. He was very happy with our effusive praise for the culinary fare though I suppose he doesn’t offen hear a disparaging word. Seeing how much I enjoyed the chicken mango curry, he suggested we return on Fridays when the buffet menu includes pineapple tika masala (a tropical twist on a classic – sweet pineapple cooked in a creamy tomato-onion gravy sauce.). Doesn’t that sound fabulous?
4 January 2019: There are only a few desserts on the menu including a delightful mango pudding studded with pineapple chunks on the buffet. My very favorite of all Indian desserts has long been halwa, a traditional post-prandial delight composed of grated cooked carrots, shaved almonds sauteed in butter and boiled milk. Taste of India’s version is terrific, a sweet dish that accentuates the brightness and intrinsic deliciousness of carrots. It’s thick and rich, a rare dessert that inspires long lingering rather than making quick work out of it.
Because some of us might never be able to prepare edible (much less delicious) Indian food, we’re grateful to have restaurants such as Taste of India to show us how it’s done. Taste of India is a tremendous find, one of the city’s best Indian restaurants. Don’t just take my word for it. Alonna Smith sent me and she certainly knows her way around an Indian stove.
Taste of India
1605 Juan Tabo, N.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 294-6342
Website | Facebook Page
LATEST VISIT: 21 January 2026
1st VISIT: 4 January 2019
# OF VISITS: 2
RATING: 24
COST: $$
BEST BET: Lamb Rogan Josh, Halwa, Keema Naan, Mulligatawny Soup, Chicken Mango Curry, Buffet, Papadum and Chutneys,
REVIEW #1142
Hi Gil,
I was asked to recommend an Indian restaurant and circled back to Taste of India. We need to go there again. What is really special is that they serve Indian Street food that I’ve never seen on an Indian menu in the States. Their bhel, chaat papri, and the dahi (yogurt) bhalia chaat all give a special taste fo India!
Interesting completely useless fact: According to Wikipedia, “Josh Rogin is an American journalist who serves as a political analyst for The Washington Post, CNN and foreign policy and national security for Bloomberg View.” Someone should tell him his curry is mahhhvelous.
When I ate here the first time, it was the lunch buffet. I said, Dang this food tastes a lot like Taj Mahal. That’s a good thing, by the way. I love Taj.
The second and third times I ate here, I finally asked the owner what was up. It was just too similar. He smiled and told me that his cooks worked for Taj Mahal for a long time. Mystery solved.
Anyway, the lunch buffet is very tasty ( especially the butter chicken, saag paneer, tandoori chicken and garlic naan). Dinner is also very good, but (understandibly) pricier.
Taste of India is also close to my house,so repeat visits are guaranteed.
There’s actually no “chemical formula” for beer though beer is a mixture of chemicals. The main chemical in beer, of course, is H2O (water). Beer also contains CH3CH2OH (ethanol) and various carbohydrates, essential oils, yeasts (esters and phenols), malts (4-hydroxy-5-methyl-3(2h) and minor levels of other chemicals that give beer its flavor.
The pursuit of the perfect beer isn’t so much about the end goal, but the journey.