JAMES BEARD FOUNDATION (JBF) HONORS NEW MEXICO RESTAURANTS, BAKERS AND CHEFS: Four New Mexico-based restaurants, chefs and bakers are finalist for James Beard Foundation awards. Two of the awards–“Outstanding Restaurant” and “Outstanding Restaurant” are national awards.
- Santa Fe’s The Compound is a finalist for “Outstanding Restaurant” honors. Welcoming guests since 1966, The Compound is on every local’s short list as New Mexico’s best restaurant. Could it also be the nation’s most outstanding restaurant. One Thrilling blogger thinks it just might be.
- The Burque Bakehouse, ensconced in downtown Albuquerque is a finalist in the “Outstanding Bakery” category. The bustling bakery offers an array of baked goods and pastries unlike any bakery in New Mexico. The best thing about waking up is something–anything–from the Burque Bakehouse.
- Owner-Chef Steve Riley of Albuquerque’s Mesa Provisions, a Nob Hill staple, is a finalist in the “Best Chef – Southwest” Category. The peripatetic chef launched his restaurant in 2021, but has been plying his craft impeccably for more than two decades. His constantly changing menu reflects New Mexico’s varied seasons.
- Also vying for “Best Chef – Southwest” is Eduardo Rodriguez of Santa Fe’s Zacatlan, a fabulous Mexican restaurant which strives to honor the traditions of Mexico while bringing in new flavors that marry Southwestern and Mexican influences.
RECOGNIZING WORK IN ELIMINATING FOOD INSECURITY: Helga Garcia-Garza, the executive director of Agri-Cultura Network, a farmer-owned cooperative, and its community-supported agricultural program, La Cosecha CSA, will be awarded the 2024 James Beard Foundation Leadership Award under the “food security and access” category. Her work through the South Valley Albuquerque-based organization has enabled hundreds of low-income families and individuals to access fresh and local produce using SNAP funds. She also oversees the distribution of produce and meat to senior nutrition sites, early childhood centers, the public education department, charter schools, hospitals, and clinics across the state. Garcia-Garza will travel to Chicago in June to receive the award from the James Beard Foundation.
MORE JAMES BEARD CONNECTIONS: In 2012, Saveur declared “The award for most far-flung modernist cuisine may go to chef Rob Connoley of the Curious Kumquat in Silver City, New Mexico.” That cuisine was described as “modernist foraged cuisine” and ” local foods with an eye on historic Apache diets.” As an essayist of New Mexico’s culinary condition, one of my biggest regrets is not having visited Curious Kumquat before it shuttered its doors in 2016. Although the Curious Kumquat may be no more, Chef Connoley continues to wow diners. Now plying his craft in St. Louis, Missouri, Chef Connoley was named a finalist in the James Beard Foundation’s “Best Chef – Midwest in 2024. The innovative chef had previously been named a “Best Chef: Midwest” semifinalist in 2022 and 2023, both for his Gate City restaurant Bulrush. In 2014 while leading Curious Kumquat, Chef Connoley also earned a semifinalist nod from the James Beard Foundation as “Best Chef – Southwest.”
NEW MEXICO’S BEST “HOLE-IN-THE-WALL FOR “MEXICAN FOOD:” Cheapism began its feature of the “best hole-in-the-wall Mexican restaurants in America” with “Money can’t buy happiness, but it can get you fajitas, tacos and enchiladas. Let’s not forget about margaritas! That clever line is the only thing about the article I liked. Okay, I also liked the choice of Perea’s New Mexican Restaurant as New Mexico’s selection. What I didn’t like is the lazy journalism practiced by much of the national media. Here’s an example: “New Mexico has their own regional Mexican-derived dishes, including the famous red and green chile. Perea’s has both in abundance, in a no-frills diner atmosphere that serves only breakfast and lunch. It’s been open and family operated since 1981.” New Mexico is NOT a region of Mexico and our cuisine is entirely distinct.
NEW MEXICO’S BEST RESTAURANT SERVING AMERICAN CLASSICS: Don’t you just love the website called “Love Food.” In two simple words it expresses the sentiment many of us feel. We don’t just eat to live, we live to eat. Love Food recently compiled a list of “The Best Restaurants Serving American Classics in Every State.” You’ve got to love the fact that Love Food didn’t shy away from the list including New Mexican cuisine. The site gave plenty of love to Nexus Brewery, its choice for the Land of Enchantment. Here’s what Love Food had to say: Unfussy and cool, Nexus Brewery dishes up some fantastic, unpretentious food at its two Albuquerque locations. The restaurant consistently receives rave reviews for the tasty food on its menu, which has a certain New Mexican flair. There are nachos covered in red or green chile, Cajun chicken chicharrones, and a soul food menu with chicken and waffles, hot chicken, and fried fish, as well as red beans and rice with hot sausage.” Lastly, you’ve got to love a site that spells “chile” correctly (Sorry, Ruben).
ALBUQUERQUE’S THE FARMACY MAKES YELP’S TOP 100 BRUNCH LIST FOR 2024: “Brunch is such an odd thing,” according to author Brian South. “It was created by fat, lazy people who were too lazy to wake up at a reasonable hour and too fat to wait until the next proper time for dining.” Aargh! And we thought brunch was a a late morning culinary exploration of sweet and savory delights. Whatever brunch may be, there’s no denying Americans love it. Using its ubiquitous database, Yelp compiled a list of the “Top 100 Brunch Spots of 2004.” Only one restaurant from New Mexico made the list, but it’s a great one. Albuquerque’s The Farmacy ranked 95th on Yelp’s list, but it’s number one in the hearts of brunch lovers in New Mexico.
March, 2024
REPRESESENTING THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT THE RIGHT WAY: Chef Marc Quiñones of Level Five Rooftop Restaurant at Hotel Chaco was so ubiquitous during the month of March that perhaps the month should be redesignated “Marc” instead of “March.” First the James Beard Foundation “Best Chef – Southwest” Semifinalist took his talents to New York to compete in the season 36 premier of Beat Bobby Flay, one of the Food Network’s flagship programs. In a battle of mentor versus mentee, Chef Quiñones first had to dispatch dear friend and fellow Duke City chef Bryan Romero to earn an opportunity to compete against Chef Flay. Selecting tostones (fried green plantains) as the ingredient with which to do battle, Chef Quiñones accorded himself like the champion he is. He may not have won the battle (judged by Chef Flay friends), but his display of class and dignity showed him to be a true winner.
UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH CHEF QUIÑONES: In a revealing interview, Chef Quiñones shared his passions with New Mexico Entertainment Magazine. Considering his pursuit of perfection in the kitchen, you might think Chef Quiñones is singularly focused on food. In the interview, Chef Quiñones shared his passion for his family. I’s obvious he’s not only a world-class chef, but a world-class father and husband. The interview delves into his career path and how New Mexico is the catalyst behind his development as a chef. In an interview with KOB TV, Chef Quiñones reiterated his love for the Land of Enchantment: “I might be from New York, but New Mexico made me the chef that I am today. And I’m really proud of that.” He emphasized that family comes first in his life. Chef Quiñones certainly has his priorities right!
NEW MEXICO’S BEST BAGEL SHOP: In February, 2024, Tasting Table used online reviews calculated on a five-point scale to find the best bagel shop in every state. The people’s choice according to public sourcing sites was Kaufman’s Coffee & Bagels. Here’s what Tasting Table had to say: “Kaufman’s Coffee & Bagels is a small spot located right off historic Route 66. It’s a relatively small, tranquil bagel destination — but it goes big on the flavors and infuses regional ingredients into its bagel recipe. Take, for example, the blue corn or red chile bagels, which can be served with your choice of cream cheese. Or try the Albuquerque Turkey topped with turkey, bacon, green chile, and tomato and served on your choice of bagel. Customers appreciate the quality of the bagels and the balance of flavors on even the spiciest options.
THREE BEST MEXICAN RESTAURANTS IN ALBUQUERQUE: Similar to salsa made in New York City, lists purporting to tell readers what the Land of Enchantment’s best restaurants are usually have little credibility. That’s especially true when those compilations don’t know the difference between Mexican and New Mexican cuisine. The most recent culprit to make that mistake was Our Big Adventure which put together its list of the “Best Mexican Restaurants in Albuquerque.” It’s hard to complain too vociferously about the three restaurants–Albuquerque City Limits, Cocina Azul and Perea’s New Mexican Restaurant–being named the Duke City’s best, but allow me to whine about the copious mischaracterizations of New Mexican cuisine throughout the feature: “We delve into the heart of the city’s culinary landscape to uncover the 3 best Mexican restaurants in Albuquerque. These Mexican restaurants in Albuquerque represent just a glimpse into the rich tapestry of Mexican culture that thrives in this southwestern hub. Welcome to Albuquerque, where the vibrant flavors of Mexican cuisine come to life in a myriad of Mexican restaurants in Albuquerque.”
WHY SANTA FE SHOULD BE YOUR NEXT CULINARY GETAWAY: Food & Wine acknowledges: “In Santa Fe, they’re cooking up something different. Since its founding by the Spanish in 1610, Santa Fe has always marched to the beat of its own drum — from its signature adobe architecture to its creative community of artists and visionaries. A diverse melting pot of multicultural influences, “The City Different” has forged an identity like no place else, and one of the best ways to experience it is through the local food scene.” In a feature titled “Why Santa Fe Should Be Your Next Culiary Getaway” Food & Wine lists some of the City Different’s best getaway destinations, a melange of food trucks, fine dining Meccas and casual eateries including El Chile Toreado, Zacatlan and Jambo.
MUST TRY PIE: In honor of Pi Day, Yelp released its list of “50 states, 50 pies you need to try,” Some of those pies are not traditional dessert pies. One example of a savory pie to try in New Mexico is the frito pie from Albuquerque’s Pop Fizz. This is a Frito Pie in which the chile actually has a bite, an endorphin-laden, tongue-tingling, taste bud pleasing bite. Chile, not lettuce and tomato, is the prevalent flavor…but it’s not solely piquant. It’s a delicious, rich red chile. The Fritos provide a salty counterbalance and crunchy textural foil to the shredded beef. This top-tier Frito pie evinces the kitchen skills of ice cream makers who can actually cook, too.
BEST PLACES TO EAT IN ALBUQUERQUE: AFAR, an “award-winning travel media brand that makes a positive impact on the world through high-quality storytelling that inspires, empowers, and enriches travelers who care” recognizes that Albuquerque is “a lot more than chilelandia.” Its compilation of “The Best Places to Eat and Drink in Albuquerque” lists a number of dishes in which chile is chief in the dish’s flavor profile.
ALBUQUERQUE’S BEST PLACE TO EAT…IN NEW YORK: Chef Marc Quiñones and his star protege (a formidable chef in his own right) Richard Padilla have become ambassadors for the Land of Enchantment. In collaboration with Visit Albuquerque and Electric Playhouse, the dynamic duo spent three days in New York City where they regaled Gotham City’s press with the story of Albuquerque and blew them away during immersive luncheons and dinners featuring Modern New Mexican Ranch Cuisine. This fabulous cuisine is available at Albuquerque’s Level 5 Rooftop Restaurant. I hope to visit Chef Quiñones very soon.
FEBRUARY, 2024
THE SOUPER BOWL TAYLOR SWIFT SHOULD HAVE ATTENDED: The Roadrunner Food Bank’s annual Souper Bowl, a soup and dessert sampling fundraising event, was held on the Saturday (February 3) preceding some ballyhooed Taylor Swift gabfest…that kept getting interrupted for a professional football game. The sold-out event provided live entertainment, a diverse silent auction, samples of soups and desserts from great local eateries and the opportunity to cast a vote for their favorites.
People’s Choice Soup
1st Place – 2024 Souper Bowl Champion: Shamrock Foods: Okinawan Sweet Potato with Crispy Bacon
2nd Place – Fuego 505: White Tomato Soup with Bacon, Basil and Green Chile
3rd Place – Mas Tapas Y Vino: Green Chile Chicken Soup
Critic’s Choice Soup
1st Place – Larry McGoldrick Award: Mas Tapas Y Vino – Green Chile Chicken Soup
2nd Place – Slate Street Billiards: Green Chile Cheeseburger Soup
3rd Place – El Patron: Green Chile Pork
1st Place – Old Town Catering: Roasted Cauliflower Apple Soup
2nd Place – Canyon Club at Four Hills: Lavender Corn Bisque
3rd Place – Twenty Two (Hilton Garden Inn/Homewood Suites Downtown): Mexican Elote Bisque
People’s Choice Dessert
1st Place – Special Touch Catering: Hungarian Goulash
2nd Place – Nothing Bundt Cakes:
3rd Place – Baked By Christiana:
TEN YEARS OF DOING BUSINESS THE RIGHT WAY: Congratulations to M’tucci’s, which not only celebrated its 10th anniversary, but over the course of those ten years implemented several impactful initiatives. Those included scholastic ventures with Rio Rancho High School, a tutoring program, a four-day work week for salaried employees and, to wrap up the holiday season, an employee-optional health insurance package. These important developments, along with a long history of supporting the communities and organizations which make New Mexico a wonderful place to live, clearly impressed judges and students of the Rust Award for Excellence in Ethical Business Practice by a For-Profit Business. M’tucci’s won the Medium category.
M’TUCCI’S FOUNDER PASSES AWAY: Shortly after M’Tucci’s celebrated its tenth anniversary and received the coveted Rust Award, co-founder (along with his wife Katie Gardner and business partner John Haas) Jeff Siegel passed away after a courageous six-year battle with leukemia. Jeff was a visionary, pioneering innovative restaurant concepts and commitment to community and employees. The values instilled in the company—passion for food, commitment to employees, and community engagement—are a lasting testament to his vision. Under the stewardship of stalwart leaders Jeff coached and developed, his legacy will continue. Continuous improvement and staying true to the core values that made the restaurants a beloved part of the Albuquerque community will remain.
LEGENDARY OWL CAFE OWNER PASSES AWAY: The obituary for Rowena Baca reads in part “She was known for her larger-than-life presence and a heart of gold that welcomed all with open arms.” In 2018, Rowena and her husband Adolfo were honored by the New Mexico Restaurant Association (NMRA) as Restaurateurs of the Year, commending their exceptional embodiment of entrepreneurship, community service, and exceptional hospitality. She was a peripatetic presence at The Owl, a smiling face greeting one and all.
MEET ALBUQUERQUE’S PREMIER CELEBRITY CHEF: Chef Marc Quiñones, a 2024 James Beard “Best Chef – Southwest” semifinalist will tell you he may not have been born in the Land of Enchantment, but New Mexico has made him the chef and person he is. Chef Marc was a recent guest on Mayor Tim Keller’s “One ABQ & You” podcast where the Mayor praised the accomplished chef for all he’s done to grow Albuquerque’s fame as a culinary destination. Typical of Chef Marc’s self-effacing nature, he directed credit to other Duke City Chefs–Jennifer James, Steve Riley, Marie Yniguez and others–for their talent and innovativeness. The chef also explained Level 5’s “New Mexico Ranch” cuisine concept, elaborating on New Mexico’s historical reliance on the bounty of the earth and wildlife.
ALBUQUERQUE’S HIGHEST RATED MEXICAN RESTAURANTS: Stacker recognizes that “Mexico has 32 distinct regional styles of cooking, and thanks to immigrant chefs and the rise of promising culinarians of Mexican descent looking to share their signature dishes, Indigenous foodways, and ingredients from various regions, diners are reframing their idea of “Mexican food.” Many of those regional styles are noted in Stacker’s list of Albuquerque’s highest rated Mexican restaurants. Using Yelp data, Stacker’s compilation included only a few restaurants that arguably are “New Mexican” more than they are “Mexican.” It’s an interesting list–particularly because its highest rated “restaurant” isn’t a restaurant at all.
ALBUQUERQUE: ONE OF AMERICA’S BEST CITIES FOR PIZZA: Yeah, I did a double-take, too. I’ve always thought of Albuquerque as a fair to good pizza city with only a handful of restaurants good enough to compete in larger metropolitan areas. Apparently Google users think otherwise. Using average Google review scores, Pizzello compiled a list of the “top 250 cities in America for the best pizzerias.” Not surprisingly, New York City was the highest ranked city followed by Tulsa (Tulsa???). Albuquerque ranked tenth. Pizzello noted “Known for its rich cultural cooking, Albuquerque’s pizzerias incorporate the bold flavors and spices New Mexico is famous for, giving their pizzas a distinctive, flavorful kick.”
NOT ACCORDING TO YELP: For a city ranked as America’s tenth best city for best pizzerias by Pizzello, Albuquerque didn’t get much respect from Yelp. In its compilation of America’s “top 100 pizza spots” for 2024 (according to Yelp Elites), not a single Duke City pizzeria made the list. Not one, zero, zilch, zip. It goes to show the accuracy of Benjamin Disraeli’s quote “There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies, and statistics.” What matters most is what individuals think is the best, their favorite.
MOST ROMANTIC RESTAURANT: Open Table believes “food is its own love language, but when it’s served in a cozy room or a candlelit booth? Guaranteed fireworks.” Analyzing over 12-million diner reviews and metrics, compiled a list of restaurants that had diners swooning. Their list of the Top 100 Romantic Restaurants in the US. was released just before Valentine’s Day. New Mexico’s most romantic restaurant is Santa Fe’s legendary Geronimo.
WHERE TO EAT, SLEEP AND PLAY IN SANTA FE: TravelAge West recognizes that “today’s Santa Fe retains all the charm of the past, newness abounds in 2024 in this historic city, from artwork and crafts by young makers committed to sustainability and modern desert-chic lodging and retail experiences to internationally influenced and Indigenous-forward cuisine.” In profiling the City Different, the online travel site compiled a list of where to eat, sleep and play. It’s not a compilation of the “usual suspects,” but a forward-thinking list that includes such stalwart new restaurants as Alkeme, a 2024 semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation’s “Best New Restaurant” honor.
GROCERY COSTS IN NEW MEXICO AMONG THE COUNTRY’S HIGHEST: HealthAdvisor.com, a financial and health website, reported New Mexico was in the Top 10 in the U.S. for average household dollars spent on groceries each week. According to the study New Mexicans paid an average of $286.39 a week–well above the national average of $270.21. California (whose politics New Mexico legislatures and The Governator increasingly seem to emulate) led all states with prices averaging $297.72 a week.
January, 2024
JAMES BEARD SEMI-FINALISTS ANNOUNCED: The Land of Enchantment is very well represented among semi-finalists in several categories for the James Beard Foundation awards for 2024. The James Beard Awards, often likened to the “Academy Awards for food” honor those who are creating exceptional food, food media content and better food systems, while demonstrating a commitment to racial and gender equity, community, sustainability and a culture in which all can thrive. Six New Mexico-based chefs are semifinalists for the award of Best Chef: Southwest:
Annamaria Brezna O’Brien from Dolina Cafe and Bakery in Santa Fe.
Eduardo Rodriguez of Zacatlan in Santa Fe
Christopher Bethoney from Campo at Los Poblanos in Albuquerque
Marc Quiñones from Level 5 in Albuquerque
Steve Riley from Mesa Provisions in Albuquerque
Josefina Garcilazo of Chope’s in La Mesa
Semifinalists in other categories include:
Compound in Santa Fe for Outstanding Restaurant
Alkeme in Santa Fe for Best New Restaurant
Burque Bakehouse in Albuquerque for outstanding bakery
Bow & Arrow Brewing Company in Albuquerque for outstanding bar
Note: Links to the thrilling (and filling) restaurant semifinalists I’ve reviewed during the past year are provided above. You can bet I’ll probably be visiting the other restaurants soon.
FACT-CHECKING THE GOVERNOR’S STATE OF THE STATE SPEECH: Shortly after Governor Michelle Lujan Grisham’s State of the State speech, KOAT TV Channel 7 did some fact-checking to determine if the governor exaggerated facts. It prompted me to do my own fact-checking. It’s obvious that our governor is immensely proud of the state she leads (and rightfully so), but in terms of New Mexico’s culinary accomplishments, one statement was “inaccurate.” The governor claimed “New Mexico is the state that invented the breakfast burrito, the green chile cheeseburger, the Flamin’ Hot Cheeto and the Frito Pie?” She was half right. The Flamin’ Hot Cheeto was invented in California and the Frito Pie was invented in Texas. In the grand scheme of things, it probably doesn’t matter as much who invented these foods, but how they’re used. That’s where New Mexico’s restaurants stand out.
MOST EXPENSIVE STATES TO OPEN A NEW RESTAURANT: A study by Restaurant Study analyzed for each state the various costs that an entrepreneur would need to spend in one year to run a restaurant–from the rent of a commercial space to licences such as a Food Service Permit and a Liquor License–to discover in which state it would be the most expensive. Not surprisingly the most expensive state to run a restaurant was California followed by New York. Surprisingly, two of the most expensive states are our neighbors: Colorado (3rd) and Arizona (5th). New Mexico ranked as the 8th most expensive state to run a restaurant. For once we’d love to rank behind Mississippi and Arkansas, both of which are far less expensive.
SANTA FE SOUPER BOWL BRINGS COMFORT TO MANY: According to the great composer Ludwig Van Beethoven “only the pure in heart can make a good soup.” There were many pure hearted chefs at The Food Depot’s 2024 Souper Bowl in Santa Fe. Chef Ahmed Obo of Jambo reigned soupreme with a Roast Beet and Ginger Coconut Bisque which secured the top spot by earning the most votes at the event, claiming both the titles of Best Soup in Santa Fe and Best Vegetarian Soup. Other Souper Bowl 2024 victors
Best Cream: Tibet Kitchen’s Corn Chowder by Chef Rodolfo Flores
Best Savory: Flying Tortilla’s Savory Green Chile Clam Chowder by Chef Carlos Ruvalcaba
Best Seafood: Boxcar Santa Fe’s New England Shrimp Chowder with Green Chile Hush Puppie by Chef Francisco Delgado
Twenty-four chefs competed in the event, the largest yearly community event for The Food Depot of New Mexico. The fundraiser continues to grow and was sold out for the second year, drawing approximately 1,700 people and raising at least $100,000 for the organization. That can fund about 400,000 meals for people across Northern New Mexico, according to a Food Depot spokeswoman.
“AMERICA’S BEST RESTAURANTS” SHOWCASES FOUR IN THE LAND OF ENCHANTMENT: Since most of us are perpetually online catching up on our social media addictions, there’s finally something meaty to watch. It’s an online roadshow called “America’s Best Restaurants” and it celebrates independently owned eateries. Five restaurants within the sacred borders of the Land of Enchantment were showcased at the end of January. To be selected for the show, restaurants can apply for themselves, or they can be recommended through customer nominations. Once the episode is completed, it will be announced and eventually aired on ABR’s social media channels – Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. First to be featured was Moriarty’s Buttercrust Pizza.
NEW MEXICO’S FAVORITE HOT SAUCE: Your fearless blogger doesn’t only call out our governor. I’m especially fond of pointing out click bait sites that purport to tout New Mexico’s “best” or “favorite,” particularly when they do so without real tangible data. In honor of National Hot Sauce Day on Jan. 22, the folks at Instacart (an online grocery platform) analyzed purchase data to reveal Americans’ hot sauce preferences. According to Instacart, the Land of Enchantment’s favorite hot sauce is Monroe’s. New Mexico’s favorite hot sauce was the hottest hot sauce rated, edging out Colorado.
ARIZONA SAYS “NO MAS” TO NEW MEXICAN RESTAURANT: It’s often been said that one person’s treasure is another person’s trash. That aphorism applies to states and restaurants, too. In 2022, Little Anita’s, a New Mexico staple with satellites in Colorado, expanded into Phoenix. Its first venture in the Valley of the Sun was in Chandler where an Intel plant is often visited by New Mexicans. Its second Arizona restaurant was in Phoenix. The advent of a new year saw the Phoenix location close. Where once Colorado had four Little Anita’s restaurants, only one remains. The forty-year-old restaurant has also seen a third of its restaurants closed within New Mexico. Little Anita’s is now down to six locations.
SOUP TO SOOTHE THE SOUL: German actress Marlene Dietrich believed: “Soup not only warms you and is easy to swallow and to digest, it also creates the illusion in the back of your mind that Mother is there. For many of us, thoughts of mother and of soup are inextricably tied, calling to mind comforting warmth and love. Yelp recently compiled a list of the highest-rated soup spots in each U.S. state. New Mexico’s most slurp-worthy soup comes from Santa Fe’s Sazon where Chef Fernando Olea prepares “Sopa De Amor” as well as your mother prepared her homemade soup.
ALBUQUERQUE’S MOST “COMMON” CUISINES: Stacker, which purports to “provide publishers with engaging, data-driven stories” used Yelp data to compile a list of the seventeen most common cuisines in Albuquerque. In this case “common” being synonymous with “prevalent” not “ordinary.” According to Stacker, the Duke City’s most common cuisine is Mexican with some 360 restaurants. There was no listing for “New Mexican” restaurants which means our state’s sacrosanct cuisine was lumped in with Mexican cuisine. It’s an interesting list.
DO ALASKA AND OREGON REALLY HAVE BETTER TACOS THAN NEW MEXICO?: If you read Yelp’s list of the “Best Tacos in the US” you’ll probably have to do a double-take. States such as Alaska, Oregon, Washington and Nevada each have tacos ranked among the top ten across the fruited plain. It wasn’t that long ago denizens of those states could only find tacos at Taco Bell. Meanwhile, only ONE New Mexican taqueria–La Reforma Brewery in Albuquerque–made the list and it was only ranked 81st. Could it be self-effacing New Mexicans are too modest to shout from the rooftops about the greatness of our tacos or could our tacos really be that mediocre? Nah, we just don’t share taco intelligence with Yelp.
ONE IS THE LONELIEST NUMBER: One! That’s the number of New Mexico’s retaurants which made it to Yelp’s Top 100 Places to Eat in the USfor 2024. Aargh! One! Let that sink in. One is the same number of playoff games the Dallas Cowboys played in 2023. One isn’t just an odd number, it’s odd that such a culinary hotbed as New Mexico could do so poorly. It could be argued that at the Land of Enchantment’s sole choice–The St. James Tearoom— eating is secondary. Much as I appreciate Yelp, my favorite public sourced review engine, some Yelpers are far too tough on restaurants that are trying their darnedest. Rating a restaurant one star because a place setting didn’t include a fork, for example, is petty and childish.
BEST RESTAURANT IN NEW MEXICO LOCATED IN A SMALL TOWN: Love Food, a “dynamic (and delicious) testament to the passion of loving food,” knows: “There’s no denying that America’s biggest cities have foodie clout. But venture beyond the buzzing urban hubs – to the sticks, the suburbs, and the small towns – and you’ll find plenty of gourmet surprise.” Love Food explains: “Wherever you go in the Land of Enchantment, you’ll find myriad great Mexican-inspired restaurants – and you needn’t stick to bigger cities like Santa Fe. Taos, whose population numbers less than 7,000, sure punches above its weight when it comes to top gourmet destinations. Among them is fuss-free La Cueva Cafe, a dinky Pueblo-style restaurant serving tacos, enchiladas, burritos, and chimichangas.”
BEST BURGERS IN NEW MEXICO: The East Coast Traveler, an online site which seems to have New Mexico’s enchanted lay of the land compiled a list of the best burgers in New Mexico. Ordinarily I would dismiss this list as more clickbait from some source who doesn’t know New Mexico from Old Mexico, but this list actually lists several good choices. Among the best burgers on the list are some you might call “usual suspects” (albeit all worthy of honors): Bobcat Bite (now Jambo Bobcat Bite), Sparky’s in Hatch and the Buckhorn Tavern in San Antonio. The list reminded me that we’re overdue for a visit to Spinn’s Burgers & Beer in Albuquerque which serves one of the state’s very best green chile cheeseburgers. We’re also overdue for a visit to two other burger emporiums on the list: Hall of Flame Burgers in Ruidoso and Hometown Burger in Farmington.