In 2011, New Mexico Magazine recruited several local food writers and asked us to introduce readers to ten of “New Mexico’s Best Eats” in several categories: Best Green Chile Cheeseburger, Best New Mexican Soul Food, Best Fine Dining, Best Enchiladas, Bet Vegetarian New Mexican Food, Best Road Food, Beste Local Seasonal Ingredients, Best Contemporary Native American Food, Best Chocolate and Best Carne Adovada. For the most part, writers waxed eloquent about “the usual suspects” in Santa Fe and Albuquerque.
The most noteable exception was Lesley S. King, a distinguished writer who graced New Mexico Magazine’s as the “King of the Road” for years. Lesley declared The Land of Enchantment’s “Best Road Food” to be the Hatch Benedict from Diane’s Restaurant and Bakery in Silver City. During her tenure as King of the Road, Lesley traveled the length and breadth of the state, visiting virtually every town and city, giving readers a deeper and more enriching experience than what is offered by most travel guides and tour services. She knows New Mexico and she knows where the state’s best foods are served.
Though we should have raced to Silver City immediately after reading Lesley’s excerpts, we let life get in the way. We didn’t make it to Silver City until thirteen years had elapsed since the publication of the New Mexico Magazine showcasing the state’s best eats. In researching dining options for Silver City, we discovered that Diane’s Restaurant & Bakery hadn’t occupied its top-tier position among the city’s restaurants for quite a while. Conversing with other java junkies at Tranquil Buzz, we heard that Diane had retired and her heralded restaurant had closed. Aaargh! Diane’s pastries were reputed to be transformative. Then there’s the Hatch Benedict Lesley about which Lesley wrote so eloquently.
Google “Diane’s” in Silver City and results returned may give you the impression that several instantiations of Diane’s still exist. One active website even lists a comprehensive menu of “classic comfort foods made from scratch using only the freshest ingredients.” That restaurant–Diane’s Restaurant–no longer exists. Nor does the original bakery. Google is not solely culpable in providing outdated information. Restaurateurs owe it to the dining public to retire outdated websites and Facebook pages or at the least, use those sites as a vehicle to apprise diners of their restaurant’s closure. Okay, enough soapbox.
We actually found “Diane’s Bakery & Deli” quite by accident while walking with The Dude to the “Hub Plaza.” At 4:30 in the evening, shelves were well depleted though we were still able to find several treasures. This instantiation of Diane’s Bakery is smallish even as bakeries go. One of our servers confided that it’s challenging enough to staff (with five to seven employees) this Liliputian bakery much less the larger restaurant-bakery which operated with more than forty employees across shifts. It’s an indictment of how lives and the employment situation has changed since the Cabrona Virus ravaged the land.
The eponymous Diane is long-time owner, chef and baker Diane Barrett. When Diane, an accomplished pastry chef, returned to Grant County more than a quarter-century ago, she found herself overqualified for every position available. She took out a small business loan and in 1996 launched Diane’s restaurant, a six table operation. Her homemade sweet bread, pastries, cakes and pies proved so popular that Diane expanded and opened Diane’s Bakery & Deli across the street. Her restaurants not only became staples of Silver City’s charming downtown, they gained prominence across the state.
During Women’s Small Business Month (October, 2015), Diane was one of a select number of women honored for their many contributions to their communities and the state’s economy. In 2019, about 6,736 firms, or 20.9 percent of all New Mexico firms, were female-owned, the eighth-highest rate in the country. Former U.S. Senator Tom Udall commemorated the month by enjoying lunch at Diane’s restaurant and recognizing Diane for strengthening local communities like Silver City. I was unable to find if the esteemed Senator dined on the Hatch green chile Benedict, but it’s entirely likely he enjoyed a pastry or six.
In 2020, Diane retired and passed the reins to her son Bodhi, a formidable baker in his own right. 2020, as we all know, was when the world shut down courtesy of the Cabrona Virus. Diane’s operated as much as it could as a take-out operation. The Diane’s of 2024 is not the Diane’s of Silver City’s halcyon restaurant days. That does not, however, signal a death knell for the wonderful bakery New Mexico with which New Mexico fell in love. Nor, as we were to discover, does it mean Diane’s can’t operate successfully in reduced capacity.
Diane’s Bakery & Deli is situated in the corner space of the Hub Plaza just north of downtown. It’s easy to miss. You won’t miss the pastries and baked goods on display in pastry cases. A deli case displays cheeses and deli meats courtesy of Shamrock. Just above bread baskets is a sandwich menu instructing diners to choose a sandwich, choose the bread, choose the sauce and “make it a meal” (meaning beverage, chips, pickle and cookie). You might visit Diane’s for baked goods, but you’ll be back for terrific sandwiches loaded with meats and more.
My choice was the number seven (Black Forest ham, pepperoni, hard salami, Provolone) with the works (lettuce, onions, tomatoes, mayo, mustard, sweet peppers) on green chile Cheddar. There’s a reason seven is considered a lucky number. This is a behemoth sandwich replete with meats and cheese stacked atop one another like plywood. Note to other sandwich restaurants–sweet peppers should be mandatory on sandwiches like this. The green chile Cheddar is a wonderful canvas for any sandwich, but in particular this one. It adds a little piquancy to other ingredient profiles. The meats and Provolone provide nicely contrasting flavors and textures. Over the years we’ve had hundreds of “Italian” subs. The number seven is right up there with some of the best.
Like many survey respondents, my Kim chose the number one (Black Forest Ham, Genoa Salami, Hot Cappacolo, Provolone), the very first sandwich on the menu. Indicative of the differences in our personalities, the only additive she wanted was mayo. It’s a good sandwich, one she liked very much. Of couse, her mad scientist of a husband could only imagine the dozens of other ingredients which would have improved it. One ingredient she passed on to me was Hot Cappacolo which proved too piquant for my delicate bride.
It’s with baked goods–particularly pastries and breads–that Diane’s earned its reputation. Though pastry cases were somewhat depleted, we were thrilled to espy a mini blueberry pie. In the Deep South, mini pies (especially sweet potato) are a beloved tradition, one I wish would catch fire in New Mexico. With pies like this, everyday (not just March 14th) should be pie day. Fresh blueberries a plenty and a wondrous flaky crust, this is one mini pie with flavor on steroids. It’s absolutely delicious.
Also quite wonderful are croissants, both the chocolate croissant and the buttery, flaky, Viennoiserie pastry with its familiar crescent shape. The chocolate croissant may have more chocolate than any I’ve had in New Mexico. There can’t be anything wrong with that. Even at 5PM, the croissants were fresh and delicious. There may be no better way to start and end a day than pastries denizens of Silver City have enjoyed for decades.
Diane’s is a beloved Silver City institution that will hopefully rise Phoenix-like to its former glory. It’s far too good not to succeed.
Diane’s Bakery & Deli
601 N Bullard Street, Suite A (Hub Plaza)
Silver City, New Mexico
(575) 956-6258
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LATEST VISIT: 6 April 2024
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$
BEST BET: Sandwiches, Chocolate Chip Cookies, Potato Chips, Brownie, Blueberry Pie, Chocolate Croissant, Croissant
REVIEW #1386