Much as New Mexicans would like to think our sacrosanct red and green chile is resultant from God’s infinite grace, there’s more than divinity at work. Would you believe science? Even before it became known as New Mexico State University (NMSU), the state’s second largest university has played a crucial role in chile production by leading breeding programs for disease-resistant, higher-yielding varieties. It started with Fabian Garcia, a member of the first graduating class in 1894. In 1898, Garcia became director of the agricultural experiment station. His research focused on helping farmers transition away from grain production. He became known for developing improved chile pepper varieties, a contribution that shaped New Mexico’s agricultural identity.
The principal objective of NMSU’s Chile Pepper Breeding and Genetics Program is improvement of chile pepper production through genetically superior germplasm. New Mexico’s chile pepper production can be separated into five major commodities: green chile, red chile, paprika, cayenne, and jalapeno. The overall production value of chile hovers around $40-50 million annually in recent years (e.g., $41.5M in 2023), with most sold for processing into salsas and sauces Chile has long been the Land of Enchantment’s number one cash food crop. Its overall economic impact (including processing, distribution, and support) is much larger than solely its production value, potentially adding billions to the state’s economy.
New Mexican families bag and freeze a lot of green chile. We NEED it to survive winter’s bitter chill. When autumn comes around and chile is harvested, we buy it in bulk (35-40 pound sacks) and portion it into half-pound bags for year-round use. A 35-pound sack yields around 20 to 22 quart bags, but some families prefer one-pound portions. New Mexicans typically freeze anywhere from a dozen bags to well over one-hundred bags per household. Some of us peel the green chile before freezing it for easier clean-up later on. Other families leave the skin on (which protects the delicate fruit from freezer burn) then peel it after thawing. Skins come off more easily in this manner.
When we’re not enjoying chile at home, we frequent our favorite New Mexican restaurants where chile adorns most items on the menu. Among the most popular palate-pleasing establishments in Las Cruces is Si Señor which has been serving “the City of the Crosses” for more than four decades. This family-owned gem got its start in Deming in 1984 when Martin and Irene Castillo decided to share their old-family Southern New Mexico recipes with their hometown. Together with their three children, the Castillos have expanded their restaurant, now serving not only Las Cruces and Deming, but Chandler, Arizona (why wasn’t it around when I was flying to Chandler almost weekly?).
Over the years, Si Señor, a term which translates from Spanish to “yes, sir” has earned virtually every “best of the city” accolade for which it is eligible. It’s not only local publications that acknowledge Si Señor’s greatness. The Adventurist, a nationwide online presence whose mission it is to “explore cities around the world, distilling their essence into guides that are as practical as they are entertaining” recently named Si Señor the third best restaurant in the Las Cruces area (the most popular is actually in Mesilla). You can’t miss Si Señor as you drive west on Amador. It’s located in a massive ochre-hued hacienda-style edifice. Although parking is plentiful, you might find yourself having to walk a distance to get to the restaurant.
As is always the case when visiting Las Cruces, I consulted Steve’s Food Blog, my most trusted resource for restaurants in Las Cruces, El Paso and Oklahoma. It surprised me to no end that my friend hadn’t visited Si Señor which the staff at our hotel told us was the best New Mexican eatery in Las Cruces. So, Steve, much as I admire you and your blog, I’m performing a community service. I hope you’re able to visit Si Señor soon as I look forward to your observations. Steve and anyone else who may visit Si Señor will find one of the most customer-oriented restaurants in the Land of Enchantment. Jeanette, our wonderful server along with our delightful hostess ensured we enjoyed our experience. Note I said “experience” which goes beyond the food (which was outstanding).
In recent years, New Mexican and Mexican restaurants in the Duke City and beyond have begun to charge a pretty penny for chips and salsa. It’s very rare to find restaurants that provide these addictive starters sans paying appetizer costs for them. Not so at Si Señor, which like Salsa Brava in Flagstaff, ferries over to your table, four complimentary salsas. Yes, four…and they’re all delightful. Moreover, they bite back the way fire-eaters like me enjoy. The four salsas were sour cream and jalapeño (my favorite), refried beans and chorizo, jalapeño (the most piquant) and red. For years I’ve declared the chips at Las Cruces restaurants far superior to chips at restaurants anywhere else in New Mexico. In Las Cruces, chips have a more pronounced corn flavor. They’re also larger and not prone to snapping in two when you’re lifting Gil-sized portions of salso. Si Señor’s chips and salsa are perhaps the very best in the state!!!
Though she can no longer enjoy piquant foods the way she used to, my Kim still loves New Mexican restaurants. She can always find something to enjoy. More often than not, she orders fajitas. At Si Señor, that means the Pancho Villa fajita plate (marinated beef or chicken grilled with fresh bell peppers, onions and tomatoes. Served with with charro beans, guacamole, sour cream and two flour or corn tortillas). Shrimp fajitas are also available. My Kim’s choice was the marinated beef and grilled chicken, a best of both worlds option. Both were perfectly prepared. The steak was fork-tender and marinated with deliciousness. Similarly, the grilled chicken was palate-pleasing. From among the veggies on her plate, my Kim was most enamored of the onions.
Forgive me for I have sinned. My pardonable transgression, one I’ll rectify by returning to Si Señor, was not ordering a New Mexican dish. In my defense, it’s so rare to find New Mexican restaurants that also serve mole, a Mexican specialty. I love mole! Maybe not as much as I love red and green chile, but it’s right up there. Si Señor’s mole chimichanga (deep fried flour tortilla burrito filled with chicken and smothered in mole sauce. Topped with freshly grated Asadero cheese) was the temptress that lured me away from chile. If sin has a flavor, it might be this one. What a great mole! More than most mole I’ve had, this one actually bites back. Such a great bite! The deep-fried flour tortilla is crispy and delicious, blanketed by that chocolate brown mole with asadero cheese stewn on top. Inside, the shredded chicken had the moistness and lightness of stewed chicken. Though chicken is my least favorite protein, I could become a believer with chicken this good.
Si Señor doesn’t just serve outstanding food, it provides an outstanding experience. Tandem service was on-the-spot with refills and more kindness and courtesy than we’ve eperienced in a long time. We’ll definitely be back! (Lest I forget, the horchata was the very best I’ve ever had. It was as sweet as the milk after you’ve finished Captain Crunch, but with cinnamony notes.)
Si Señor
1551 East Amador Avenue
Las Cruces, New Mexico
(575) 527-0817
Website | Facebook Page
LATEST VISIT: 10 January 2025
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$
BEST BET: Mole Chimichanga, Fajitas, Salsa and Chips, Horchata
REVIEW #1515
My daughter, a graduate of State, insists that the New Mexican offerings in LC embarrass what you can find in the Duke City. While her favorite is The Shed it appears that a visit to Si, Senor is in order.
With very few exceptions (Mary & Tito’s for one) I’m inclined to agree with your daughter. Las Cruces has outstanding New Mexican food. It’s not at all “dumbed down” as some restaurants prepare it in Albuquerque.
Hey Gil, I’m glad you found another Las Cruces gem. You are right that it is hard to miss. I have passed it many times on my way to neighborhood restaurants on side streets, but as in El Paso I should figure that some places that look like they might be tourist traps are not, and might have some of the best food. It speaks very well that they have a specific farm that sells them their chile.
You are very correct that the chips and salsa are a critical part of the meal. They are usually better in Las Cruces than in El Paso, but generally both cities are among the best in the US.
I also love mole but have plenty of opportunity to get it in El Paso. Actually I have found the best mole to be in Austin. Cafe Mayapan in El Paso sometimes has Oaxacan mole which is very good. I thought the mole at Elemi was good as well. For the Chihuahua style black mole many places have it but only a few do it well. It sounds like mole is not often a part of New Mexican menus, and I have not found it either.
Your mention of TheAdventurist is a great tip. My takeaway is that nobody is going to find all the best restaurants in any city, but your blog is very solid and TheAdventurist looks to be the same, although not as thorough in listing New Mexico eateries. I am mostly looking for good hole-in-the-wall restaurants but will try other places if they have some really good items. It sounds as if Si Senor is a good candidate for almost anyones’s list.
Congratulations on your extensive Phoenix list.