(to the tune of Hello Dolly)
this is Joe, Deli
would you please send up
a nice corned beef on rye.
A box of RITZ, Deli
and some Schlitz, Deli
Some chopped liver
and a sliver of your, apple pie.
Turkey Legs, Deli
hard boiled eggs, Deli
and a plate of those potatoes you french fry, oh
Don’t be late, Deli
I just can’t wait Deli,
Deli without breakfast, I’d just die.”
~ Frank Jacobs (Writer for MAD Magazine)
In 2016, BBC Travel lamented the imminent demise of the New York City deli. “Not the corner markets or bodegas that appear on nearly every New York block,” but “the true New York City delicatessen: the brick and mortar expression of the American immigrant experience, the very culinary soul of the city. “Some 80 years ago, New York City was home to three or four thousand delis. Today, there are less than 24.” That true New York City delicatessen of which BBC Travel wrote showcased “the food of the Eastern European peasantry – smoked sausages and cured meats, smoked cabbage and offal stews and dark bread, salted fish and boiled dumplings.” The primary draw to the New York City deli has always been beef – “corned or pastrami’d, put in a hot dog or, in the case of tongue, pickled.”
Transplanted New Yorkers of my acquaint remind me there are no true delis in New Mexico–despite restaurants such as Hello Deli “usurping” the name Deli. By strict definition, they’re absolutely correct. A delicatessen, or “deli” for short, is a store where people can go to buy ready-to-eat items such as cold cut meats, sliced cheeses, sandwiches, breads, salads and so much more. By New York City standards, a true deli is a reflection of the Jewish experience centered largely on pastrami and corned beef deftly sliced in front of you by a skilled counterman.
So, if Hello Deli is not a deli, what exactly is it? Let’s explore the lexicon. Could Hello Deli be a diner? Serious Eats lists the characteristics that make up a diner: breakfast all day, warm and sassy welcome for all greeters, modest pricing, counter and table/booth seating, quick service and anonymity of the short-order staff. Is Hello Deli a restaurant or cafe? Generally speaking, a restaurant refers to any establishment that serves food and beverages. Meanwhile, cafes are places that serve different types of coffee and drinks. Following that logic, all cafes are restaurants – but not all restaurants are cafes.
By that definition, Hello Deli can’t be a cafe which purists would also define as a restaurant that does not offer table service and customers order their food from a counter then serve themselves. If my little exercise in lexicology only served to confuse matters, it’s more important that by any name or definition, Hello Deli has been satisfying Duke City diners (a customer at an eatery) for more than three decades. For seven days a week, it’s a home away from home to the industrious folks who call the Journal Center area their place of employment. For the rest of us, Hello Deli is a destination when we’re craving hearty portions, breakfast all day, low prices, delicious food and great service.
On some weekdays for lunch, lines snake beyond the entrance to the counter where you place your order. Fortunately the well-practiced staff keeps things moving, pleasing throngs of hungry diners with grace and smiles. You’ll certainly run into owner Marcus Cassimus, a grizzled gentleman conspicuous for two reasons. First is his height. Marcus played basketball with the Greek National Basketball Team years ago. Second is his peripatetic presence. He may be the boss and owner, but he’ll escort guests to their tables, deliver orders, flit between tables to ensure his guests are happy…basically anything needed to be done.
Hello Deli may not offer a true New York deli experience, but it does offer generous portions of delicious food New Mexicans crave. A formidable menu ensures there’s something for everyone. There’s a reason Hello Deli’s motto is “Say hello to more choices.” Here’s how the restaurant’s (cop-out?) website describes breakfast: “Hello Deli has all your favorites or try our famous chicken fried steak burrito or savory-sweet Santa Fe blue corn pancakes, all cooked on the double.” Lunch reads just as invitingly: “Hello Deli fights the lunchtime blahs with savory sandwiches, fresh salads, glorious wraps and hearty burgers along with flavorful sides like our Jalapeno Mac and Cheese.”
5 April 2022: When my Kim toiled for the Associated Press (walking distance to the Hello Deli), she regaled me with tales of almost daily visits to the area favorite. That’s probably why she never suggested it during one of our excursions. When she finally brought me to Hello Deli, she virtually insisted (not that she got any argument from me) we order the green chile chicken soup. As a ten-time judge at the Roadrunner Food Bank’s annual Souperbowl, I’ve had (literally) gallons of that enchanting elixir and have never tired of it. Hello Deli’s version is top-shelf, among the best in Albuquerque. It’s got the comforting qualities common to all great soups and it’s a composition of ingredients that work very well together. The green chile has a nice intensity. There’s plenty of shredded cheese swimming among the creamy composition and the chicken is seasoned well and delicious.
5 April 2022: In the May, 2022 edition of New Mexico Magazine, the Land of Enchantment’s sacrosanct green chile cheeseburger was celebrated. The cover story depicted an exemplar of one of our state’s most beloved foods. Order Hello Deli’s green chile cheeseburger and you’ll quickly find out why we love them so much. A thick beef patty topped with pleasantly piquant green chile then sheathed in a molten blanket of cheese is just the starter. Add lettuce, tomato and a smear of mustard and you’re in for a terrific treat between sesame seed buns. The burger is served with thinly-cut French fries and a pickle spear.
5 April 2022: With an owner named Marcus Cassimus, is it any surprise the menu includes a spate of Greek items: Hello Gyro, Olympic Omelet, Greek salad and the Hello Corfu salad. My Kim loves the Hello Gyro served with plenty of garlicky, tender gyro meat sliced thickly and nestled on a warm pita which also envelops onion, tomato and lots of creamy tzatziki sauce. This terrific gyro is served with a pickle spear and a two-pack of saltine crackers. The former makes sense. We weren’t sure about the crackers. In far too many Greek restaurants, we tend to order “double meat” not just because we love the lamb-beef amalgam, but some restaurants are rather parsimonious with their gyros. Not so at Hello Deli.
5 April 2022: Only two desserts adorn the menu, a house-baked cookie and a house-baked sweet roll. Technically, you can also have something sweet from the waffles/pancakes menu. The sweet roll is a thing of beauty with gobs of glazed frosting and nearly enough cinnamon for my Kim. They’re freshly baked to order which means you might have to wait a few minutes for one. It’s worth it! If you want to trade your buns of steel for buns of cinnamon (stolen from Ellen Degeneres), this is a good start.
23 April 2022: Former (and last) Gourmet Magazine editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl once wrote “I am here to say that there is nothing “everyday” about pancakes. Their entire purpose in life is to prove that a few simple ingredients can become absolutely extraordinary. They exist to wake you up, make you happy and send you out into the world with hope in your heart. That’s a tall order for a little cake, and it cannot be achieved by stinting. The minute you start worrying that they’re too rich you’ve defeated the whole purpose of pancakes.” Many of us–including Shaggy and Scooby Doo–would agree. Pancakes are an extraordinary every meal delight.
It’s not often we’re surprised by pancakes, but Hello Deli managed to blow us away with an offering called Santa Fe Cakes. They’re virtually everything you would want a pancake to be and much more. So much more! Picture two near plate-sized blue corn pancakes with Cheddar and Jack cheese, green chile and piñon baked right in served with your choice of bacon, ham, sausage or chorizo and two eggs (any style) for a pittance more. What makes these pancakes so downright delicious is the melding of ingredients you might not think would go well on pancakes slathered with syrup. The green chile provides searing heat, the Cheddar and Jack provide sharp, salty contrasts and the piñon lends its woodsy qualities. These pancakes are extraordinary!
23 April 2022: Talk about an identity crisis. The Cuban sandwich is not from Cuba. Nor is it from Miami. It actually originated in Tampa, Florida. So says a Tampa Cultural History video series that’s both educational and informative. The official recipe as described on a Tampa city resolution signed in 2012 calls for “crispy white Cuban bread, scored by slipping narrow strips of palmetto fronds into the dough before it’s baked. Then comes ham, sliced thin and lightly sweetened, followed by roast pork in a citrusy mojo sauce and a layer of salty Genoa salami. It’s finished off with Swiss cheese; three dill pickle slices (no more, no fewer); and yellow mustard, before the whole thing is pressed until the bread is warm and the ingredients meld.”
It goes without saying that a number of liberties have been taken with Tampa’s sacrosanct sandwich. The further away you are from Tampa, the more brazen those liberties tend to be. At least Hello Deli doesn’t claim to serve an authentic Tampa-style Cubano. In fact, Hello Deli’s sandwich is called Hello Cubana and it’s pretty darned good (thank you, Andrew, for recommending it). This sandwich is made with thinly sliced pork and ham topped with lettuce and pickles on a French roll with mayo, mustard and chipotle sauce. Thinly sliced doesn’t mean it’s not piled on. A generous amount of both pork and ham lay under a molten blanket of mozzarella with a thin sheen of chipotle sauce peeking through. That chipotle sauce is so good you’ll want more of it. The French bread is sweet and chewy, a nice canvas for a very good sandwich.
23 April 2022: My friend Bruce “Sr Plata” Silver’s antenna was raised when he perused Hello Deli’s menu and espied chicken fried steak burrito (scrambled eggs, chicken fried steak, hash browns, cheese and diced green chile in a flour tortilla, smothered with gravy). We planned to visit the restaurant and determine if this creation is genius or madness. My Kim beat us two it though someone’s going to have to tell her it’s not a chicken fried steak without gravy. Worse, she asked that it be served without green chile and hash browns. Aargh! For what it was worth, the idea is probably genius, but my Kim rendered it incomplete genius…maybe grade school honor student genius.
14 June 2022: The Big Breakfast Burrito at Hello Deli may not be the largest burrito in the world (that distinction goes to a 12,785-pound burrito created in Baja California, Mexico, on 3 November 2010) but it may look that way. Aptly named, the Big Breakfast Burrito (scrambled eggs, hash browns, choice of meat (sausage, bacon or ham) with papitas, cheese and smothered in red or green chile (or both) it’s a behemoth covering most of the plate. Easily more than a pound, it’s large enough for two meals if you can surmount the temptation to eat it all in one sitting (it’s that tasty). Ask for caramelized onions on top and all three porcine meats to make it even better. An extra portion of both red and green chile is a given; you can never have enough chile. There’s another Guinness record this burrito won’t be breaking any time soon. You won’t beat the fastest time to eat a burrito (32.35 seconds).
14 June 2022: There are recipe sites online that actually advocate using leftover roast beef to construct a prime rib sandwich. That’s almost as egregious as trying to pass off a Timex as a Rolex. If you want a great prime rib sandwich, look no further than Hello Deli for the real thing. The prime rib is sliced supermodel thin and has a melt-in-your-mouth texture and flavor. That prime rib is piled on generously and nestled between Hello Deli’s sweet, delicious french roll. It’s topped with pearlescent grilled onions and molten melted mozzarella cheese. When you have a prime rib sandwich this good, no substitute will do.
8 March 2023: The Travel explains that Biscuits and Gravy are the “Finest Thing to Come out of Appalachia.” Although some culinary historians believe that biscuits and gravy might have been providing sustenance to American soldiers as early as the Revolutionary War, the prevailing opinion of most food experts is that their genesis is the 1800s and Southern Appalachia’s lumber industry. Even if you don’t have Southern roots, it’s possibly a wave of nostalgia still grips you when you see them on the menu. Biscuits and gravy are Americana on a plate, a hearty stick-to-your-ribs meal that’s become a staple across the fruited plain. Once a heavy and overly filling dish with a week’s worth of calories, today a lighter and flakier biscuit is now more likely and the gravy is now more creamy and often flecked with pepper.
Order Hello Deli’s biscuits and gravy (two homemade biscuits smothered in country-style sausage gravy, two eggs any style, sausage and hash browns) and you probably won’t need to eat again that week…er, day. Our friend Lynn Garner got through about half the plate before declaring “no mas.” That certainly made The Dude happy as it meant Lynn could focus more attention on him. The biscuits certainly warranted attention. They’re the antithesis of the crumble apart biscuits (too much flour to the dough) with no integrity. These were light and fluffy, the type of which you can actually slather butter and jelly on. The gravy was flecked with pepper, giving it an assertiveness that paired well with the spicy breakfast sausage.
8 March 2023: Most of us are acquainted with the Ides of March which transpires annually on March 15th and coincides with the first full moon of the month. That date is forever associated with the assassination of Julius Caesar by senators hoping to preserve the Roman Republic. In 2013, the city of Omaha, Nebraska declared the Eve of The Ides of March (March 14th) National Reuben Sandwich Day. It’s a day that should be marked in any sandwich and meat lover’s calendar. It’s certainly a day some of us (Roberto, are you reading this?) will surely celebrate with a Reuben or two.
It’s long been my contention that the Albuquerque’s has only four Reuben sandwiches worth celebrating: My Mom’s (and only on some “Throwback Thursdays”), The Farmacy, 2G’s Bistro and Vinaigrette. Add the Hello Reuben (lean corned beef or turkey, sauerkraut, melted Swiss and Hello Deli dressing piled on grilled rye) to that esteemed list. This is a sandwich as good as you’ll find in the metropolitan area, each component a compliment to the others. The slightly tangy sauerkraut pairs beautifully with the sweet Hello Deli dressing which serves as a magnificent foil to the salty, lean corned beef. Lynn did remind me it would have been better with double meat (or preferably double the number of sandwiches).
Albuquerque’s Hello Deli may not be a true deli in the New York sense, but it’s one heckuva popular diner slash restaurant with a loyal following that now includes a certain gastronome who was late to the game.
7600 Jefferson, N.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Website | Facebook Page
LATEST VISIT: 08 March 2023
1st VISIT: 5 April 2022
# OF VISITS: 4
BEST BET: Green Chile Cheeseburger, Gyros, Cinnamon Roll, Green Chile Chicken Soup, Hello Cubana, Chicken Fried Steak Burrito, Santa Fe Cakes, Reuben, Biscuits and Gravy
16 thoughts on “Hello Deli – Albuquerque, New Mexico”
Gil, funny how photographs can make things look different than they really are. If I hadn’t seen your sandwich yesterday with my own two eyes and just judged it from the picture, I would have thought, that’s plenty of meat, that Lynn person must be a pig! Speaking of corned beef, it’s almost St Patrick’s Day time. If anyone has any ideas of who puts together a good corned beef and cabbage dinner please share. I’ll probably end up at Blades Bistro again but if there was another option in town that would be nice.
Hey, that’s no way to speak about one of The Dude’s groupies. Our little boy sure enjoyed sitting next to you and nudging you for more scratches and petting. He wants to know when we’re doing it again and has suggested a restaurant with meats and butter.
I neglected to add that I wished I asked for more gravy but again in the picture it looks like there was plenty! You neglected to mention that The Dude enjoyed the biscuits as much as I did. Tell him we’ll do it again soon and definitely there will be meat, gravy and lots of butter.
My favorite corned beef and cabbage dinners In order. 1. Quarter Celtic. 2. O’Niell’s. 3. Two Fools. You can’t go wrong with any of them IMHO.
Thanks so much for your recommendations!
Long time reader and first time commenter here. I am very enthused to see one of my favorite frequent stops on your blog. I feel like for once I’ve beaten you to something! I frequent your blog and have found many new favorites thanks to you (including and particularly M’tucci’s 25; my actual #1 favorite restaurant) so I’m happy to see you enjoyed a favorite of mine. Should you ever stop by Hello Deli again and should you feel so inclined, I urge you to try the Hello Cubana signature sandwich.
Thank you for your continued support of local restaurants. I will always look forward to more entries to your blog!
Thank you very much Andrew. I appreciate you frequenting the blog and look forward to trying the Hello Cubana (thinly sliced pork and ham topped with lettuce and pickles on a French roll with mayo, mustard and chipotle sauce). I’ve never had chipotle sauce on a Cuban sandwich, but it sounds delicious.
Thanks Sarita and Nestor. I can’t imagine green chile infused meatballs; intriguing. My to-visit list is growing by leaps and bounds! I’m going to have to lobby for a Social Security Benefits increase so that I can eat out more often.
Deli Mart did have great sandwiches. Too bad I discovered them shortly before they closed.
Once upon a time I worked in the Journal Center area. Oddly enough, I went to Hello Deli just a handful of times. I have no real reason; they just didn’t come to mind when it was time to grab a bite to eat. That could be because Milly’s was a closer option. Lynn, have you ever been there? I can’t speak for their biscuits, but I remember the food being pretty good. They’re open on the weekends, so that would make it easier to check them out. And I totally agree with you on places that serve breakfast all day. If only all places did that.
I went to Milly’s one time. I recall my food was okay, but I was put off by how loud it was. There weren’t even that many customers. I’ve also only been to Jimmy’s Cafe once. I enjoyed my food there a lot and it was a more pleasant experience. Even though it was packed with customers! The other thing I liked about Jimmy’s was how friendly the other diners were, which was a good thing because the tables are packed tightly together. Of course whenever I am able to venture a little further in that part of town, I will always end up at Vic’s Daily Cafe. I hope you have had the pleasure of eating there.
Yes, I enjoyed Jimmy’s Cafe more than Milly’s too. But Vic’s is better than either of them and the place that I will seek out first if I’m ever in that area, which sadly hasn’t been often lately.
No wonder this place is popular. I just perused their menu on line and they have all ten of my Top 10 breakfast favorites! Including, Sr Plata, chicken fried steak!! Let me know if you get there before I do. Sarita, they serve breakfast all day. You were spot on when you pointed out the obstacles to getting to My Moms for Biscuits and Gravy. It will happen, but restaurants that serve breakfast all day have my heart. (Well, not Dennys…)
Oops, you called Hello Deli “Deli Mart” towards the end there. Freudian slip perhaps? Deli Mart is truly missed so I can forgive this minor slip in an otherwise Pulitzer Prize winning write up.
LOL. Thanks for letting me know, Tom. Do you remember the good old days when there was a Deli Mart on Eubank and another on Coors? No only were the sandwiches fabulous, they pulled their own mozzarella and it was wonderful.
Alas, as you pointed out in your review of its second iteration and as I remember it painted with red trim, originally it was on Juan Tabo, not Eubank: https://tinyurl.com/bdf4jutn just a matzo ball’s throw from today’s Philly Steaks. My FAV was the meatball sandwich. Wasn’t one of the Guys a kinda doppelganger of Cliff Clavin of Cheers?