San Marcos Cafe – Santa Fe, New Mexico

Contrary to some popular opinion, roosters don’t crow just to be noisy or annoying. They crow as a sign of territorial advertising; they’re protecting their turf. At San Marcos Cafe, the cacophonous din of crowing roosters is understandable considering the throngs of hungry patrons infringing on their turf.  There was one famous fowl at the San Marcos Cafe who didn’t chicken out at the sight of guests.  Buddy the Chicken, master of all he surveyed, served as the restaurant’s unofficial valet parking attendant and maitre de.  Nattily attired in polychromatic plumage and a black bow tie, Buddy welcomed one all…

Anthony’s Soul Food – Santa Fe, New Mexico

I couldn’t help but ask Anthony Moore “Don’t you eat your own food?”  Anthony is the lean and lanky owner of the eponymous Anthony’s Soul Cafe in Santa Fe.  He explained that during a typical day he gets in some 12,000 steps (five to six miles) at his restaurant.  That, he claims, is the reason he doesn’t weigh four-hundred pounds. The peripatetic Anthony jokes that his role as owner also includes dish-washer, greeter, host, waiter, chef and whatever else is required during the day.  It’s not that he doesn’t have help.  We had expected to see Anthony’s son whom we…

Stackers Burger Co. – Rio Rancho, New Mexico

In baseball it’s called the “Triple Crown,”an incredibly rare achievement in which a player leads the league in average, home runs, and runs batted in.  To win the triple crown, a player must tremendous power to hit for distance as well as a very keen eye to hit baseballs thrown at nearly 100 miles per hour and place them on the field in positions that result in driving in runs.  In horse racing, the term Triple Crown represents a series of horse races for three-year-old Thoroughbreds, consisting of the Kentucky Derby, Preakness Stakes, and Belmont Stakes.  To win all three of these…

The Silver Screen Restaurant at El Rancho – Gallup, New Mexico

In the 1930s and 1940s, sometimes considered the halcyon days of Western movies, the Four Corners region was the site of many cinematic classics, quite a few featuring battles between the cavalry and “misplaced” American Indians.  Never mind that the Cheyenne and the Sioux actually lived hundreds of miles (and several states) away, the region’s dramatic topography was a perfect backdrop for cowboy conflicts with these Midwestern Indians. Besides that, Navajo “actors” were plentiful.  Producers would attire them in war bonnets, arm them with lances and hand them scripts in which they would invariably succumb to the “righteous might” of the…

Lo-Lo’s Chicken & Waffles – Scottsdale, Arizona

Thousands of unique, undocumented family nicknames are born every day. However, dozens of the most common, traditional English first names used today exist entirely because of historical childhood speech limits or toddler mispronunciations. That’s because when children learn to talk, their mouths struggle with hard consonant clusters. This leads to a linguistic process called “reduplication” (repeating syllables) or consonant swapping to make words easier to say. Over centuries, these toddler-friendly versions became standard legal names. My sister Dolores acquired one such nickname. When my brother George couldn’t pronounce “Dolores,” he began calling her Lorlie–not “Lolo” as you might expect. Even…

Joe’s Real BBQ – Gilbert, Arizona

No ordinary Joe is this, critics would have you believe. Instead, they insist, this has been one of the best 59 restaurants in the Phoenix area (Phoenix magazine, 2002). Located in a 1929 brick building that saw its “hay day” in the golden age of agricultural Arizona, it retains the charm that helps make downtown Gilbert a popular destination.  Originally built in 1929, the building has had a long history. It was once home to a grocery store called Safeway Pay n’ Takit, storage building, movie theatre, lamp factory and finally a church before it was bought in 1997 and…

Texaz Grill – Phoenix, Arizona

My travels throughout the fruited plain have taught me that there are attitudinal differences between residents of different states. Most people have significant pride in their homestate and don’t necessarily think that highly of neighboring states. More than any state, the Lone Star state will broach no claims of superiority by any other state. The saying that “everything is bigger in Texas” actually means “everything is better in Texas.” Barbecue is better, football is better, country music is better and Tex-Mex is the only acceptable derivative of Mexican food.  Don’t ask me.  Ask anyone from Texas. Some forty years ago…

Butters Pancakes & Cafe – Scottsdale, Arizona

“Spread your tiny wings and fly away And take the snow back with you Where it came from on that day So, little snowbird take me with you when you go To the land of gentle breezes where the peaceful waters flow.” ~ Anne Murray Every autumn, gaggles of geese, flocks of ducks, kettles of hawks and constructions of cranes begin their long, arduous migration from the continent’s northern regions to warmer climes in the South. They fly in formation to more idyllic and much warmer locales such as the Bosque del Apache in New Mexico. Similarly, large numbers of…

Honey Bear’s Barbecue – Phoenix, Arizona

Depending on the type of egg, the minimum temperature for frying an egg has been measured to be 144-158F.  That’s only a few degrees from the ideal “low and slow” temperature of smoking meats–225°F to 250°F. On scorching summer days in Phoenix, television news shows perennially traumatize visitors and tourists by frying an egg on the city’s sidewalks. It would really traumatize viewers if a pitmaster was shown manipulating the low-and-slow smoke emanating from post oak embers on a sidewalk to barbecue a brisket. In the first decade of the new millennium, frequent business trips brought me to the Valley…

Original Hamburger Works – Phoenix, Arizona

“When in Phoenix, do as Phoenicians do.”  If that means staying in air conditioned confines during the summer, we’re doing it.  If that means sticking with local culinary fare, not so much.  Blame that on “Only in Arizona,” a travel and lifestyle publication from the good folks who bring us “Only In Your State.”  A recent edition of Only in Arizona celebrated a “Phoenix Burger Joint” that “Has Cooked Over Real Mesquite for 40 Years.”  As if mesquite grilled burgers aren’t enticing enough, the article boldly declared “The green chile cheeseburger, with jalapeño cheese and a grilled green chile on…

Patty Man – Albuquerque, New Mexico

“Hotter than a sizzling flat-top, More powerful than a wood-fired grill, Able to stack towering flavors in a single bite… Look, up at the Sawmill! It’s a James Beard semifinalist It’s the king of the grill… It’s The Patty Man!“ Chef Sean “The Patty Man” Sinclair is a self-effacing guy, more like mild-mannered reporter Clark Kent than his “man of steel” alter ego.  You won’t see Chef Sinclair run into a phone booth to don his apron and toque nor will gawking crowds point toward him and utter “Look!  In the kitchen, it’s a cook.  It’s a chef.  It’s Sean…