Dave’s High Desert Grill – Albuquerque, New Mexico

It’s easier, by far, to define and describe Japanese and Chinese cuisines than the melting pot (literally and figuratively) that is American cuisine.  It’s the same with French cuisine and Italian cuisine.  Virtually every cultural culinary tradition had been influenced by the traditions of neighboring countries while managing to retain elements that are unique to that particular cuisine.  American cuisine, on-the-other-hand is pretty much a mishmash of every other cuisine, near or far.  To say American cuisine consists of the cooking style and traditional dishes prepared in the United States is to sell that cuisine short.  Immigrants, in particular, have created a diverse cuisine that often varies by region.

As if American cuisine sounds like a catch-all term, a phalanx of restaurants are increasingly self-glossing as “New American” restaurants, a term Scottsdale chef Dom Ruggiero of Hush Public House says “let’s me do whatever I want.” Also known as “Contemporary American cuisine” or “Modern American Cuisine,” this evolved cuisine is primarily served at upscale fine dining eateries across the fruited plain.  It’s essentially a fusion cuisine which assimilates flavors from the conflation of multicultural foods and often components of molecular gastronomy with a focus on fresh, local and seasonal farm-to-table ingredients.

When we visited Dave’s High Desert Grill, I momentarily wondered whether this Eubank gem in the Promenade Shopping Center was an “American” or “New American” restaurant.   The menu bespoke of traditional American family favorites such as pot roast, meatloaf and even Thanksgiving turkey.  That same menu offered such regional specialties as New Orleans Shrimp Linguine Bowl, fajitas, ribeye steak poutine and honey Sriracha teriyaki chicken bowl.  It didn’t take much contemplation to conclude that it doesn’t matter if Dave’s calls itself American, New American or any other label.  What matters is whether or not the food delivers.

Dave’s High Resort Grill is the younger sibling of Dave’s Valley Grill which has been feeding denizens of 4th Street and beyond since 2017.  The High Resort Grill is located at the spot which once housed the  “Rustico Italian Kitchen (a surprisingly short-lived creation of Chef Mike White).  Both Dave’s restaurants share a website and a raison d’etre: “Freshly Prepared Comfort Food” to “soothe your soul with something good and choose from a variety of mouthwatering plates.”  Both offer brunch seven days a week.

The “Dave” behind Dave’s is Minnesota transplant David Hanisch who mad it his mission to bring Midwestern-influenced comfort food to the North Valley.   As my Chicago born-and-bred bride will attest, Midwestern cuisine is rather meat-and-potato-centric.  Not that it doesn’t have universal appeal.  Our friends Lynn Garner and John Martin, formerly Colorado residents, were impressed by the comprehensive menu.  There is something on the menu for everyone!

Take, for example, the pretzel.  It’s about the size of my head (and my friend Bill Resnik likes to remind me what a big head I have). Expect to be amazed…maybe intimidated as your server ferries this knot-shaped hardtack creation.  This shape, a symmetrical loop created by intertwining the ends of a long strip of dough and then folding them back on each other, forms the telltale “pretzel loop.”  The four of us made a gallant effort to finish the pretzel, but it proved too much.  The pretzel is served with your choice of queso fundido or spicy mustard.

Since the advent of fast casual restaurants such as Applebee’s and Chili’s, “Bowls” have  been a trending menu offering. In 2022, one restaurant supply source reported that bowls are “found on 34.8% of menus, up 9% over the past four years.” Dave’s offers eight “bowls,” among them a New Orleans Shrimp Linguine Pasta Bowl (seared garlic shrimp blended with broccoli florets, red pepper and a sauce comprised of crawfish meat, garlic, heavy cream, champagne, fresh basil and smoked paprika on linguine pasta, topped with Parmesan cheese).  Frankly, it sounds much better, much more flavorful than it actually is.  I found it rather bland save for the garlicky shrimp.  Nor was I able to find but a hint of crawfish meat.  In all our previous visits to Dave’s, I’ve come away satisfied and well-fed.  I’m looking forward to “redemption” at a future visit.

Perhaps hearkening back to her Midwest roots, my Kim’s choice was Tavern Pot Roast (slow-cooked pot roast, red skin mashed, carrots, fire roasted corn and beef gravy), surprisingly also from the “Bowls” section of the menu.  This is traditional Midwest comfort food, very reminiscent to my Kim of Sunday dinners with her family.  Tender tendrils of pot roast fall apart at the press of a fork, a testament to its tenderness.  Sweet candied carrots and fire-roasted corn are so good, they’d convert the most resistant of vegetable-hating children (or those of us in our adultery).  My Kim may be the only Midwesterner who doesn’t like gravy at all.  Lynn and I consider this a mortal sin, but there’s nothing we can do to sway Kim’s opinion.  I can’t eat mashed potatoes without gravy.

Like its sibling on 4th Street, Dave’s High Desert Grill proudly serves a menu of American comfort food favorites sure to sate diners of all stripes.

Dave’s High Desert Grill
5200 Eubank Blvd., N.E., Suite B5
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 433-2380
Website | Facebook Page
LATEST VISIT: 11 April 2024
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$$
BEST BET:
REVIEW #1390