During a February, 2024 episode of Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, host Guy Fieri asked Chef Dom Ruggiero what type of cuisine her served at his North Scottsdale restaurant Hush Public House. Chef Ruggiero explained Hush features “New American,” a term which basically “let’s me do whatever I want.” Chef Ruggiero could have said “Martian” and it’s unlikely he would have received any argument from the periphrastic host. In part that’s because Chef Ruggiero is a former United States Marine. With tatooed guns nearly the size of Hulk Hogan’s, he still looks like he could take on a regiment of terrorists single-handedly. Despite the chef’s enviable musculature, Fieri observed a culinary technique he described as “such a big hand doing it so daintily.”
You might wonder how a former Marine became one of the Valley’s most highly regarded chefs. After leaving the service, Chef Ruggiero worked in an office in which Cordon Bleu occupied the third floor. The chef related that he “saw all these guys with tatoos playing with knives and fire.” His instant reaction was “sign me up.” Originally from Scottsdale, Chef Ruggiero has been in the culinary arena for nearly fifteen years. He launched Hush Public House in 2019 and immediately began garnering accolades. Chef Ruggiero is the founder of Cast Iron Concepts, the Scottsdale-based hospitality group with three popular neighborhood establishments under its umbrella.
While Chef Ruggiero may describe his culinary style as “New American,” his style may be better defined by the letters tatooed on his sausage-sized finers. “Home” is spelled out on one hand and “Made” on the other. The term “Homemade” aptly describes the chef’s guiding principle. When you visit Hush, you’ll quickly discern that the chef takes liberties (plays) with food. Whatever your conception of “Italian Beef” may be, Chef Ruggiero’s rendition will blow you away. It’s wholly unlike any Italian beef you’ve ever had…and he’s been serving it his way since long before The Bear made America curious about Italian Beef. Much of the Hush menu is replete with unique culinary creations.
Hush is ensconced in one of seemingly hundreds of nondescript strip shopping centers in the ever-expanding North Scottsdale enclave. Tinted windows obscure your view of the restaurant’s interior and a fairly minimalist decorative style won’t give you much to look at unless you’re seated on one of the seats with a view to the exhibition kitchen. Though ambiance adds to a dining experience, you can’t eat ambiance. Besides, for me the best seat in the house is opposite my Kim. Vintage photos of Arizona landmarks festoon the walls of the dining room where we were seated. We were very well taken care of by the beautiful Aiden who could have passed for actress Bryce Dallas Howard.
Bryce…er, Aiden walked us through the menu, explaining that the menu is very dependent on what ingredients are in season and what the chefs are inspired to try. Remove such staples as the aforementioned Italian beef sandwich and crab hush puppies from the menu and there would be a revolution. She wasn’t on duty when Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives visited, but heard from colleagues that Guy Fieri was very personable…very much the garrulous personality he displays on every episode of his long-running Food Network series.
My preference would have been to have Italian beef as an appetizer, entree and dessert, but that would not have been feasible for a guy who craves variety. Not to mention, at forty dollars per, it would have been rather expensive. Thank goodness, the menu offers several “starters” though the menu isn’t segmented. We decided on the roasted delicata squash (bourbon mascarpone, apple mostarda, hazelnut gremolata) in which the naturally sweet flavor of roasted squash was ameliorated by savory notes and slightly tart complements courtesy of the apple mostards. This starter was a textural delight, too, with crunchy hazelnuts providing wonderful contrast to mostly soft ingredients.
Marrying my Chicago born-and-bred bride introduced me to Italian beef sandwiches (typically thin slices of roast beef simmered and served au jus on French bread). Italian beef sandwiches are the Windy City’s most delicious contribution to the sandwich sphere. Hush offers an upscale and unique take on Italian beef that I’ll be dreaming about. A single slice of brioche is topped with three slices of smoked provolone, braised oxtail and giardinaire. On the Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives episode in which Hush was featured, the painstakingly thorough process of creating this Italian beef was explained. Fieri’s reaction: “My mouth right now is like the sirens going off at the Hoover Dam that release the water.” I’ll echo that. This may have been the very best Italian beef AND oxtail dish to every cross my lips.
My Kim’s adventurousness went only so far as tasting the oxtail. Let’s face it. Unless you’re an adventurous diner, you’re not likely going to even try, much less enjoy oxtail. Her entree was steak frites, something she can find at a million restaurants in Scottsdale. Well, most other versions won’t be nearly as good. Prepared at a perfectly pink medium degree of doneness, the thinly sliced prime New York strip was sheathed in a beautiful sear that hinted of salt, pepper and garlic. As one of those rare XY chromosome paired people who doesn’t care much for steak, this one could change my mind. We also appreciated that the frites weren’t painfully thin as some tend to be when paired with steak.
In 2019, Hush Public House was accorded “Best New Restaurant” honors by The Phoenix New Times. It’s consistently listed among Scottsdale’s “top ten best restaurants.” The only thing it’s missing is ME…more often.
Hush Public House
14202 N Scottsdale Road #167
Scottsdale, Arizona
(480) 758-5172
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LATEST VISIT: 22 December 2024
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$$
BEST BET: Italian Beef, Steak Frites, Roasted Delicata Squash
REVIEW #1438