Calavida Cantina – Albuquerque, New Mexico

At Calavida Cantina, you’re invited to “party like the dead.”  If you haven’t partied like the dead, you’re probably not well acquainted with the Mexican tradition of “El Dia De Los Muertos,” the Day of the Dead.  During this Mexican holiday, the profusion of skeletons of all sizes performing day-to-day activities signifies the return to this world of the dead who remain who they were when they lived, doing what they did.  For example, skeletal figures depicted on the artwork at Calavida Continue would have been party animals when they graced this earthly plane.  Therefore in death, they remain party animals–eating, drinking and being merry.   At Calavida, the party animals of a past life mingle with party animals of today in…

Fei’s Cafe – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Some say the map of China looks like a chicken.  The province of Sichuan in Southwest China would be right in the stomach of that chicken.  That’s fitting because the cuisine of Sichuan is internationally renowned for its liberal use of spice.  What characterizes Sichuan from the other regions of China is its use of Sichuan peppercorn, chilies, and the ability to take even the most mundane of ingredients to create fabulous dishes.  There’s a term for the flavor profile associated with Sichuan cuisine.  It’s the word “mala” which translates to “numbing spice.”  The “ma” portion of that term comes from the use of Sichuan Peppercorns (which are actually in the same botanical family as citrus, not chilies).  Sichuan peppercorns…

Clay Pot Restaurant – Albuquerque, New Mexico

“This stuffing of food in your fellow diners’ face is called gursha, and that’s what you do to show your affection and respect. Try this at the Waffle House some time and prepare for awkwardness.” ~Anthony Bourdain, Season 6 of Parts Unknown Eating Ethiopian cuisine involves eating with your hands. That can also be said about eating pizza, sandwiches, tacos, gyros and a number of other foods common to the American palate. But what about being fed from someone else’s hand?  In Ethiopia, that practice is called gursha.  Gursha is a term for the Ethiopian tradition of hand-feeding a bite of food, wrapped in injera, to someone else as a gesture of love, friendship, and respect. It signifies hospitality, often extended to…

Kaufman’s New York – Albuquerque, New Mexico

“I’ll have what she’s having.”  Can it really be 35 years since Meg Ryan and Billy Crystal created their famous fake orgasm scene from When Harry Met Sally?  The scene was filmed at New York City’s Katz’s Delicatessen where sumptuous sandwiches are skyscraper tall and absolutely delicious (my sole visit was in 1978).  Unlike Meg’s character, most of us wouldn’t have to fake our “excitement” with one gander of the sheer size of Katz’s pastrami sandwich.  A Katz’s, the world-famous pastrami sandwich is enormous, featuring about one pound (12–16 ounces) of hand-carved meat stacked between rye bread. The sandwich stands roughly five-inches tall and is often considered large enough for two people to share.  Obviously that doesn’t include me; I wouldn’t…

Si Señor – Las Cruces, New Mexico

Much as New Mexicans would like to think our sacrosanct red and green chile is resultant from God’s infinite grace, there’s more than divinity at work.  Would you believe science?  Even before it became known as New Mexico State University (NMSU), the state’s second largest university has played a crucial role in chile production by leading breeding programs for disease-resistant, higher-yielding varieties. It started with Fabian Garcia, a member of the first graduating class in 1894.  In 1898, Garcia became director of the agricultural experiment station. His research focused on helping farmers transition away from grain production. He became known for developing improved chile pepper varieties, a contribution that shaped New Mexico’s agricultural identity. The principal objective of NMSU’s Chile…

Jollibee – Chandler, Arizona

One visit to Jollibee might convince you you’ve visited yet another American chain restaurant.  You’d be half right.  Jollibee is a chain, but it’s a chain based out of the Philippines.  Apparently the many islands comprising The Philippines developed a taste for fried chicken and burgers during its years as a U.S. colony.  My Uncle Fred, a career Navy man stationed several times at Subic Bay (on the west coast of Luzon Island in the Philippines northwest of Manila), raved that the fried chicken, in particular, was far better than fried chicken anywhere in the United States.  Apparently he’s not the only person with that opinion. USA Today and Eater both recently named Jollibee fried chicken as the best in…

Fry Bread House – Phoenix, Arizona

The James Beard America’s Classics Award honors locally owned restaurants with timeless appeal, beloved in their region for serving quality food that reflects the character and cultural traditions of their community, and must have been operating for at least 10 years, recognizing enduring, community-rooted establishments over flashy new trends. While the America’s Classic award is presented annually, only six of the twelve James Beard regions are eligible each year.  That means every other year, each region is represented.  This ensures broad coverage over time.  The most recent New Mexico recipient of the America’s classic award is the incomparable Mary & Tito’s. In 2012, the Fry Bread House, a beloved Phoenix institution since 1992, earned the America’s Classic award, becoming the…

All Pierogi Kitchen – Mesa, Arizona

Not surprisingly, culinary historians aren’t in complete agreement regarding the origin of pierogi.  Most believe dumplings likely traveled from Asia along the Silk Road to Eastern Europe.  Perhaps they were even brought over by Marco Polo or Turkish traders.  That’s the more likely origin story.  The more popular Polish origin story credits St. Hyacinth of Poland for the pierogi.  In fact the Polish exclamation “St. Hyacinth with his dumplings!” is a call for help during hopeless circumstances (much like St. Jude being asked to intercede in the resolution of hopeless causes). There are two legends involving St. Hyacinth and pierogies.  During a visit to a village in Poland, a hailstorm broke out, destroying crops and leaving people with the prospect…

Buck & Rider – Gilbert, Arizona

If you believe you can’t find great seafood in Phoenix because it’s landlocked and nine months out of the year its temperature rivals that of the sun, you would be mistaken.  As my friend Steve Coleman reminded me recently, 200 years ago, passenger trains in England made fish and chips possible throughout the country by facilitating the transport of fish to interior cities.  Similarly, advances in air travel and refrigeration have made seafood much more available to those of us whose only fresh seafood is the Rio Grande minnow.  Sure, you can catch some fish in the rivers and canals throughout Arizona, but you won’t find lobster, crabs, oysters, mussels, stone crab and other “real” seafood. For years, my dear…

Myke’s Pizza – Mesa, Arizona

Americans eat a tremendous amount of pizza. Denizens of the fruited plain consume roughly 3 billion pizzas annually. Per capita that’s about 46 slices or 23 pounds per year, adding up to about 100 acres of pizza daily,  Pepperoni is the favorite topping and Super Bowl Sunday the biggest sales day. Over 90% of the U.S. population eats pizza regularly, making it a staple for any meal. With staggering numbers like that, you might think no country–not even Italy–comes close to competing with the United States for pizza consumption.  Norwegians consume the most pizza per capita globally, averaging around about 25 pounds per person annually. That’s significantly more than Italy or the U.S. According to Food & Wine, the most…

Harold’s Cave Creek Corral – Cave Creek, Arizona

Football fans can be unforgiving…and some of us have elephantine memories.  Dallas Cowboys fans, for example, will never forget nor forgive the Pittsburgh Steelers for having bested (obviously the referees cheated) the Cowboys twice in the Super Bowl.  Never mind that our beloved Cowboys finally did beat Pittsburgh in a later Super Bowl.  We’ll never get over losing two.  Our only consolation is that at least we didn’t lose to those neanderthal New York Giants.  Someday you’ll have to ask me how I feel about the Steelers and Giants.  With such antipathy toward those miserable Steelers, the one place you’d think I’d never be caught dead would be a Steelers Bar, much less one of the most highly regarded Steelers Bars…