Some say the map of China looks like a chicken. The province of Sichuan in Southwest China would be right in the stomach of that chicken. That’s fitting because the cuisine of Sichuan is internationally renowned for its liberal use of spice. What characterizes Sichuan from the other regions of China is its use of Sichuan peppercorn, chilies, and the ability to take even the most mundane of ingredients to create fabulous dishes. There’s a term for the flavor profile associated with Sichuan cuisine. It’s the word “mala” which translates to “numbing spice.” The “ma” portion of that term comes from the use of Sichuan Peppercorns (which are actually in the same botanical family as citrus, not chilies). Sichuan peppercorns create a tingly, electric, buzzing, salivating, sensation on the palate. Sichuan peppercorns are not spicy. The heat in Sichuan cuisine comes from la – or spicy. A variety of chilies are used in Sichuan cuisine.
When long-time reader Nathaniel recommended Fei’s Cafe, he explained “It’s by far the best Chinese food I’ve had in ABQ, comparable to Boston or LA. It’s a real hole in the wall and really authentic. They don’t seem to be getting a lot of business, for that reason and because of their location, I think. But the couple who owns it are super nice. It’s just the two of them working there. I really can’t recommend it enough. I’ve been so disappointed with the Chinese food here, but this place is actually good.” Hmm, “really authentc, comparable to Boston, actually good.” All of those superlatives intrigued me, but it was this sentence that really got my juices going: “The chef is Sichuanese.”
When I shared Nathaniel’s recommendation with Bill Resnik, my great friend and frequent dining companion, he couldn’t wait to experience it. Like me, Bill is a bona fide fire eater who believes pain is a flavor. Spicy is too mild if it doesn’t make us sweat as much as working out for an hour on the treadmill. A Sichuan chef, we figured, would serve us something on the scale of what The Food Ranger (Trevor James) shared with “Chinese Trump” (Ryan Chen), a viral social media impersonator known for mimicking Donald Trump’s mannerisms, on food-focused content. This video depicts them enjoying Chongqing hot pot with so many chilies and peppercorns that even Satan would beg for water. Chongquing, by the way, is not within the Sichuan provinence but has strong cultural and culinary ties with the Sicuan region.
Perusing the menu, we espied several dishes which screamed “authentic.” Save for orange chicken, Mongolian beef, chicken chow mein and a few other items, the menu didn’t have the lacquered sweet-and-sour dishes Chinese Trump might describe as “round-eye Chinese food.” Bill and I appreciated that though even we might have a bit of trepidation (Bill more than me) about ordering spicy braised pork trotters, boiled spicy bullfrog (or dry pot bullfrog) and pork intestine and tofu casserole. Yes, it’s that type of Chinese restaurant–the type I love. Our server spoke almost no English, but pointed enthusiastically at menu items she recommended. When we asked a question about a menu item, she queried her smart phone but the results it returned basically didn’t help.
Fei’s Cafe is located on the southeast corner of the intersection between Wyoming and Zuni. It’s not quite a mile to the Wyoming gate to Kirtland Air Force Base. Fei’s occupies an aged edifice whose halcyon days are probably forty years removed. Previous occupants include a nunber of Thai, Vietnamese and Mexican restaurants, most of them not memorable. The area in which Fei’s Cafe is situated is in the heart of the area relabeled the “International District” after being long known as the “War Zone.” This Fei’s Cafe is not to be mistaken for the Fei’s Cafe in the University area. That restaurant shuttered its doors several years ago.
The first of our four entrees to arrive was Dandan Noodles, a Sichuan dish traditionally served by street vendors who carried them on poles across their shoulders (dan dan). This spicy noodle dish is normally tossed in a sauce of chili oil, Sichuan peppercorns and preserved vegetables. The dandan noodles delivered to our table resembled a Vietnamese vermicelli noodle dish in that topping a tangle of noodles were fresh carrots and cucumbers along with ground beef. We didn’t discern any of the numbing Sichuan peppercorns we both love. Nor did our tongues burn beautifully from chilis. The noodles and broth were slurp worthy.
Our server (whom we surmise was the owner) was very enthusiastic about the Kung Pao chicken. Bill resisted her overtures, but she gave me a pleading look that seemed to say “order this, please.” I did. As with the dandan noodles, Kung Pao chicken has its genesis in the Sichuan province. Made well (authentically), it offers a complex blend of sweet, sour and savory flavors with a signature numbing mala from those Sichuan peppercorns and chilis. Americanized versions (can you say Panda Express) are less spicy and sweeter. At first browse, the dish placed in front of us looked like Kung Pao chicken with the characteristic sliced chicken, peanuts, vegetables and chili peppers. Unless you actually eat the chili peppers, you won’t discern much heat from this dish. It was sweet, savory and vinegary. Not bad, but not what we expected.
Among the unique menu items was egg and corn stir fry with shrimp. I don’t recall having seen this item on the menu of any other Chinese restaurant in New Mexico, but apparently it’s not uncommon in China. Characteristically Sichuan-style egg and corn stir fry includes Sichuan peppercorns as well as garlic and (or) ginger for the numbing kick Bill and I love. This dish combines fluffy eggs which adhere to the corn niblets. Fei’s version includes both stir-fried shrimp and fried shrimp pieces. Surprisingly, this may have been our favorite of the four dishes we shared.
Our final entree was the spicy diced chicken. Spicy was somewhat of a misnomer in that unless we bit down on the incendiary dried chili peppers, we discerned very little heat. In the Sichuan province, this dish is tossed with a profusion of dried red chili peppers, Sichuan peppercorns, ginger, garlic and sesame seeds. It should be a fiery, numbing (mala) dish in which aromatic chilis and spices waft toward happy diners. Though we enjoyed the chicken, we really would have preferred much more personality.
Fei’s Cafe has some very unique offerings adventurous diners should enjoy. Bullfrog may or may not be one of them, but someday I may just return just to try it.
Fei’s Cafe
200 Wyoming Blvd., S.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(703) 352-7155
Website |
LATEST VISIT: 12 March 2026
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$
BEST BET: Spicy Diced Chicken, Egg and Corn Stir Fry With Shrimp, Kung Pao Chicken, Dandan Noodles
REVIEW #1520