Step into J’s Var-B-Q and the first thing you’re inevitably going to notice is the aroma of smoked meats wafting toward you. The bouquet of sweet and succulent smoke envelops you like a warm blanket on a cold night. It’s a comforting smoke sure to elicit involuntary salivation. It’s a siren’s song luring you to the counter where you place your order from a tempting menu of meats, sandwiches, sides, specialties and desserts. If the doors to J’s Var-B-Q were to literally stay open, the rapturous redolence of smoked meats would escape onto Montgomery and traffic would be snarled with motorists (maybe even a vegetarian or six) making their way to this bodacious barbecue restaurant.
The second thing you’re likely to notice is a large mural on the wall depicting a grizzled gentleman with engorged pythons for arms. He’s got his hands steepled in prayer and his eyes closed in reverence. Undoubtedly he’s giving thanks for the bounty laid out before him: a plate of ribs and hot links with sides of mac-and-cheese and baked beans. The prayerful man on the mural is Julian Vargas, a born-and-bred New Mexican and patriarch of the Vargas family. If you haven’t already surmised by now, the “J” and “Var” on the restaurant’s name represent “Julian Vargas.” It’s clever wordplay.
J’s Var-B-Q opened its doors on 30 November 2023. It’s located on the south side of Montgomery just east of Louisiana Boulevard. Its next door neighbor is Nio Szechuan with the venerable Yeller Sub and Richie B’s nearby. J’s Var-B-Q doesn’t subscribe to any of the four most recognized barbecue “templates” meaning it doesn’t claim to represent the barbecue styles of Central Texas, Carolina, Memphis or Kansas City. Instead, as Julian will tell you, the restaurant smokes and serves Oklahoma style barbecue. A well-traveled man, he’s tried barbecue at all the bastions of barbecue, but it’s the low profile barbecue served in Oklahoma that he loves most.
What distinguishes Oklahoma style barbecue from that of other barbecue regions is the light smoke. J’s smokes its meats with a white oak which is renowned for producing the best coals for longer burning. White oak is compatible with red meat, pork, fish and heavy game meaning you can use it for virtually every type of protein. Oklahoma style barbecue is served sans sauce though sauce is available at your table. J’s offers a delightfully piquant, New Mexico inspired sauce that includes red chile. A sweet sauce is also available.
Conspicuous by its absence on the menu is smoked bologna, lovingly referred to by Sooners as “Oklahoma tenderloin.” Smoked bologna is a state favorite and one of my very favorite of all smoked meats. Otherwise, J’s offers all the smoked favorites: pulled pork, turkey, spare ribs, brisket, chicken, hot links and chicken tenders. “Meals”–your meat choice with one side and a drink are a bargain. You can purchase your smoked meats by weight, from a quarter-pound to as much as you can eat. Or, you can enjoy a sandwich constructed on fluffy potato buns. Sides include all the favorite ‘cue accompaniments: corn-on-the-cob, baked potato, coleslaw, baked beans, fried okra, mac n’ cheese and more. Three desserts–brownie, ice cream and cobbler–are also available.
My inaugural meal consisted of a quarter-pound of both smoked links and brisket with sides of baked beans and green chile mac n’ cheese. If I had my druthers, the brisket would have been sliced, but chopped up brisket is still great. The brisket was tender, moist and boasted of a beautiful bark that provided a slight textural contrast. As promised, the brisket had a light smoke (a little goes a long way). The smoked links were superb, possessing smokiness, flavor and punch. They’e not overly piquant, but have a spicy personality. Baked beans, my favorite side at barbecue restaurants, were wonderful. Chunks of brisket stud the beans and provide a contrast to the molasses sweetness of the beans. The green chile mac n’ cheese will make you sit up and take notice.
My Kim had a quarter-pound of pulled pork and a quarter pound of brisket with a baked potato. As with the brisket, the pulled pork is terrific. Tender tendrils of tangled pork invite the sweeter sauce. Along with smoked turkey, pulled pork benefits most from a light smoke. Use a more ascerbic wood (hickory or mesquite for example) and the natural sweetness of these meats are obfuscated. Baked potatoes are served with your choice of toppings. Sour cream and butter are enough for my Kim. The baked potatoes are baked through and have a nice, soft interior.
J’s staff is friendly and accommodating. During our visit just seven days after grand opening we were surprised at how seasoned and well trained the staff seemed to be. We didn’t discern “wait schtick,” just superb customer orientation by a crew that wants guests to enjoy their dining experiences. Topping that list was Julian Vargas himself whom we addressed “Mr. Vargas,” both on account of his muscular frame and out of respect for a man who knows smoked meats.
On our way out of J’s Var-B-Q, we ran into a family asking if the restaurant was as good as Rudy’s, the Texas-based barbecue enterprise. We hope that family found, just as we did, that J’s may be brand new to Albuquerque, but its barbecue can compete with any.
J’s Var B-Q
7200 Montgomery Blvd., N.E., Suite F1
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 508-0379
Website
LATEST VISIT: 7 December 2023
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$
BEST BET: Quarter-Pound of Brisket, Quarter Pound of Pulled Pork, Quarter-Pound of Hot Links, Green Chile Mac-n-Cheese, Baked Beans, Fully Loaded Baked Potato
REVIEW #1362