J’s Var-B-Q – Albuquerque, New Mexico
Step into J’s Var-B-Q and the first thing you’re inevitably going to notice is the aroma of smoked meats wafting toward you. The bouquet of sweet and succulent smoke envelops you like a warm blanket on a cold night. It’s a comforting smoke sure to elicit involuntary salivation. It’s a siren’s song luring you to the counter where you place your order from a tempting menu of meats, sandwiches, sides, specialties and desserts. If the doors to J’s Var-B-Q were to literally stay open, the rapturous redolence of smoked meats would escape onto Montgomery and traffic would be snarled with motorists (maybe even a vegetarian or six) making their way to this bodacious barbecue restaurant. The second thing you’re likely to notice is a large mural on the wall depicting a grizzled gentleman with engorged pythons for arms. He’s got his hands steepled in prayer and his eyes closed in reverence. Undoubtedly he’s giving thanks for the bounty laid out before him: a plate of ribs and hot links with sides of mac-and-cheese and baked beans. The prayerful man on the mural is Julian Vargas, a born-and-bred New Mexican and patriarch of the Vargas family. If you haven’t…
