The city of Phoenix has a population of approximately 1.66 million residents, making it the fifth most populous city in the United States. As anchor for the broader Phoenix-Mesa-Chandler-Scottsdale-Tempe, etc., etc. metropolitan area, more than 4.8 million people call the Valley Of The Sun home. So no, it’s not glutted with designer taco shops competing with modest mom-and-pop taco joints. As in Austin, Texas, there can’t be nearly enough taco shops to appease denizens and visitors who believe tacos should be on the USDA food pyramid–maybe at the top right above pizza and burgers.
At the risk of delving (or devolving) into a potential political miasma, one term I’ve not heard used about tacos is “cultural appropriation,” the adoption of elements from a minority or marginalized culture by members of a dominant culture, often in exploitative, disrespectful, or stereotypical ways. Online and print critics bandy about such terms as “gringo tacos” as freely as they ascribe “authenticity” to tacos proffered by scions of Montezuma. It dawned on me when researching Tacos Chiwas just how often the term “authentic” or some derivative thereof was used. Obviously, Tacos Chiwas is several somebodies exemplar of the real thing.
Tacos Chiwas was launched in 2016 by owners, Armando Hernandez and Nadia Holguin. While many, if not most, of Arizona’s Mexican restaurants are heavily rooted in the cuisine of the Mexican state of Sonora, Tacos Chiwas showcases foods from the state state of Chihuahua where both owners are from. Armando and Nadia, a charismatic married duo, focus on recreating the flavors of their childhood in their dishes, using spices and techniques learned from family and through experience working in the restaurant business. It didn’t take long for the taqueria to achieve attention across the fruited plain.
Tacos Chiwas has been featured twice on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives program. Their inaugural appearance was in 18 February 2018 during an episode titled “All Kinds of Comfort.” The second appearance aired on December 5, 2025 on the Triple D spin-off Triple D Nation. Host Guy Fieri was especially effusive in his praise of the taqueria’s barbacoa tacos, but genuinely seemed to enjoy everything he sampled. His banter with the owners was very respectful. In November, 2022, Tacos Chiwas was also featured on Taco Chronicles during season three in an episode titled “Cross the Border.
Fresh off national exposure and success, in February, 2023, Armando and Nadia launched Chiwas Cocina, a modern chef-driven Mexican restaurant specializing in a contemporary, upscale take on classic Chihuahuan cuisine. Indicative of Armando’s hands-on approach, he built of the tables, chairs, and booths. He also built the wood-fired grill which crackles with mesquite and pecan wood and fills the air with its aroma. Chiwas Cocina was an immediate hit. In 2024, Armando and Nadia were nominated for the James Beard Foundation’s (JBF’s) “Outstanding Restaurateur” award in recognition of both their restaurants. In 2026, they were nominated for JBF’s “Best Chef’ – Southwest” honors. In both cases, they were named semifinalists.
Increasingly JBF Restaurant and Chef Awards nominate a diverse range of eating and drinking establishments ragign from fine-dining tasting-menu rooms and casual neighborhood bistros to regional concept eateries, barbecue joints and yes, humble taquerias. Most recently, Ana Liz Pulido of Ana Liz Taqueria in Mission, Texas, won Best Chef: Texas in 2024. It may only be a matter of time before Armando and Nadia walk up to the dais to receive their award. After my inaugural visit and having previously feasted on the fabulous fare at Chiwas Cocina, it wouldn’t surprise me.
In an episode of the PBS program “Check Please Arizona,” one of the guest critic’s “pro tips” was “get one of every taco.” It’s advice I should have heeded. I ordered only four of the nine tacos on the menu. All but one were fabulous, some of the very best tacos I’ve had outside of Texas. Most stellar among the four was the barbacoa taco (shredded beef cheek, cilantro, white onion). When Food Network gliteratti Guy Fieri tasted this particular taco, he declared that eating them meant tasting true Mexican culture. The slow-cooked, melt-in-your-mouth smoked beef cheek barbacoa served inside fresh corn tortillas should be the state taco of Arizona! Also quite good was the eponymous Chiwas taco (beef, ham, jalapeño, Anaheim chiles, Asadero cheese). Even without visiting the salsa bar, this taco had more personality than any of the four tacos on my plate. The combination of beef and ham is genius.
On a taco top tier, you’l also find the camaron taco (shrimp, cabbage slaw, mayonnaise, butter, garlic). The shrimp has a snap of freshness that pairs well with the crispy cabbage slaw. Among the many things done right with this taco is giving the shrimp an opportunity to shine. Far too many camaron tacos are crammed full of cabbage slaw. The mayonnaise is creamy and lends savory and tangy notes. My fourth taco is a mystery. I know I ordered a lengua taco (beef tongue, cilantro, white onion) but didn’t recognize the taco put in front of me. Having devoured a herd of cows for lengua taos, I know lengua is unctuous and rich with a profile similar to barbacoa. This “lengua” or whatever it was was crispy, salty and fried much like chicharrones. My server couldn’t tell me whether that is how Tacos Chiwas version of lengua is prepared. Aargh!
One of the reasons I didn’t order more tacos is because pan-fried mashed refried beans are on the menu. These were served piping hot with Asadero cheese on top. Asadero cheese has a mild, creamy, and slightly tangy flavor, with a buttery finish. It is somewhat similar to fresh mozzarella or a young Monterey Jack. Characteristic of Tacos Chiwas, the beans were outstanding. Now, if only someone could explain that weird lengua taco.
Tacos Chiwas
1028 East Indian School Road
Phoenix, Arizona
602) 358-8830
Website | Facebook Page
LATEST VISIT: 21 July 2026
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$
BEST BET: Refried Beans, Horchata, Chiwas Taco, Barbacoa Taco, Lengua Taco, Camaron Taco
REVIEW #1534