Grandma: “Tonight, me and your aunt are gonna go visit some friends
and we’re not gonna be back till tomorrow.
We’re gettin’ a little low on steak,
so I got Lyle comin’ over tomorrow to take care of it.”
Napoleon: “Well, what’s there to eat?”
Grandma: “Knock it off, Napoleon. Make yourself a dang quesadilla!”
“Gosh!” It took a cult movie about a high school misfit lacking all the skills girls like–such as nunchaku skills, bow hunting skills and computer hacking skills–for the humble quesadilla to became a pop culture meme. Described by movie critic Roger Ebert as “the kind of nerd other nerds avoid,” Napoleon Dynamite was the quintessential dorky loser, a carrot-topped dweeb who lived with his grandmother and subsisted on a diet consisting largely of steak and tater tots.
Napoleon’s grandmother not only dissed the quesadilla with the inference that this beloved treat is a dang second rate afterthought, she had the effrontery to pronounce it “kay-saw-dill-aw,” a pronunciation waiters and waitresses throughout New Mexico hear every day from visitors not necessarily from Napoleon’s home state of Idaho. Because of Napoleon’s grandmother, Urban Dictionary now defines the quesadilla as “Something you want to make when you’re low on steak and there’s nothing else around to eat.”
Had the exchange between Napoleon and his grandmother not been so freakin’ funny, the citizenry of the Land of Enchantment might have taken collective umbrage at the tawdry treatment of our tasty tortilla treat. Perhaps in Preston, Idaho quesadillas are constructed from boring half-moon shaped tortillas of dubious origin stuffed with gooey, gloppy, flavorless cheese, but in New Mexico quesadillas are a magnificent mainstay crafted with inspiration and love. The quesadilla may have been invented in Mexico, but it’s been perfected in New Mexico!
Here the quesadilla can be served as a snack, appetizer, entree, sandwich and even dessert. Often the tortillas are griddled on cast iron stoves and the sundry ingredients with which they are stuffed are limited only by the imagination of the cook preparing them. It’s not just cheese that fills our quesadillas though a quality queso is integral. More often than not, our quesadillas include New Mexico grown chile, an addictive additive which improves the flavor of anything with which it comes in contact.
In 2010, a new restaurant was launched which celebrates the versatility and deliciousness of the quesadilla. Fittingly it’s in Albuquerque’s Old Town and it is owned and operated by a direct descendent of one of the original families which founded Albuquerque. In 1706, a number of families left Spain to avoid the Spanish Inquisition, eventually to settle in the Old Town area. Among those families, the De Garcia family became one of the most prominent landowners in the area, ultimately laying claim to much of the town which would become Albuquerque.
Today all that is left of the De Garcia family estate is situated in the Old Town area. The Garcias remain one of the last remaining original families left in Old Town that continue to own and operate at least some of their original property. Shawn Mondragon, a descendent of the original De Garcia settlers is the proud owner of the Quesadilla Grille, a charming eatery ensconced in the Poco A Poco (Little by Little) Patio off one of those quaint side streets that give Old Town so much character. Mondragon, by the way, is not only a very genial guy who treats diners like welcome guests, he’s one of the Duke City’s best known personalities, going by the name Chaz Malibu on 98.5 of your FM radio dial.
The restaurant is housed in a home built by Nick Garcia in the 1900s. Several homey familial touches remain including trasteros in which family treasures are proudly displayed. Spanish architectural touches abound including deep nichos in which santos are honored. Stately vigas lend an air of stability belied by the creaky floors overhead on the second floor. Brick flooring on the front dining room lends period authenticity while faux wood laminate flooring with a distressed wood look and feel in the back dining room could fool non-experts like me.
True to the restaurant’s name, quesadillas are featured fare, but these aren’t dang quesadillas to be eaten only when you run out of steak. Shawn Mondragon has concocted an inventive menu in which the quesadilla is all it can be. There are a lucky thirteen different quesadillas on the menu with variations available on several of them. Perhaps in recognition that in modern America a quesadilla alone might not make a meal, all quesadillas are accompanied by a trip to the “fry bar” and a drink unless you prefer an a la carte quesadilla.
On its own, the fry bar is worth a visit to the Quesadilla Grille. A wire basket brimming with fresh-cut fries arrives at your table steaming hot. The fries are thick cut, not to the Texas fry level, but much thicker than the fast food tuber variety. The fries are perfectly prepared, neither too flaccid nor too stiff. They are magnificent, some of the very best in the Duke City. The “bar” portion of your order is a trip to an “interactive topping station” where you can fill paper ramekins with your choice of several sauces: a fiery, smoky chipotle; standard garden-variety ketchup; a sweet onion sauce; cheese sauce and more. The sweet onion sauce is especially good though it might be a bit cloying for some.
Alternatively, you can opt for chips and salsa instead of the fry bar (or better yet, dine with a friend and order one of each). The chips are freshly made and served hot to the touch. They’re relatively low in salt and are large and thick enough for Gil-sized scoops of salsa. The salsa is pureed, nearly water thin which makes scooping a challenge. Dipping the chips is more appropriate. For a pittance more, you can “make ’em nachos” by adding cheese sauce from the fry bar and having the chips served with your choice of meat and jalapeños.
The quesadilla menu is at the very least an interesting and inventive assembly of tortilla wedges engorged with fillings you certainly won’t find in Preston, Idaho (or anywhere else, for that matter) . They’re made to order and arrive at your table hot and fresh. During my inaugural visit, the Philly Cheesesteak Quesadilla, was a no-brainer choice. Crispy, buttery tortillas cut pizza style into four triangular slices are engorged with grilled shredded steak, mayo, onions, bell peppers, Cheddar-Jack and provolone cheeses (with a green chile chaser). Take these toppings and nestle them into a hoagie roll and you’d have a Chile Philly Cheesesteak second in Albuquerque only to the one at Itsa Italian Ice.
We weren’t quite as enamored of the Malibu Meal quesadilla (grilled ham and pineapple quesadilla with honey and red chile powder). The ingredient composition had us hoping for something akin to Hawaiian-style pizza in which the salty savoriness of ham complements the tangy sweetness of pineapple. Instead, the honey dominates the flavor profile with its cloying sweetness. Not even a generous sprinkling of red chile comes across. Worse, the honey is lightly smeared atop the quesadilla and it transfers onto your hands. Had we treated this as a dessert quesadilla, we might well have enjoyed it more.
A better option is an Italian Meatball Quesadilla (Meatballs, Marinara Sauce, Mozzarella) which is more reminiscent of a pizza in both taste and texture than it is a meatball sub. Understandably, because they’ve got to fit in between tortillas, the meatballs are relatively small, but they’re seasoned well and complemented by a marinara sauce you could actually enjoy on spaghetti. Even though guacamole would probably go well, ask for a side of marinara sauce for dipping.
There are several dessert “quesadillas” on the menu. They’re called “dulcedillas” and there’s no queso involved. Fillings include peanut butter and banana with chocolate syrup, apples and cinnamon with caramel syrup and cherries and pineapple. Quesadillas are accompanied by your choice of three condiments: salsa, guacamole or sour cream. The guacamole is buttery and delicious.
I would be remiss if I didn’t relate my own Napoleon Dynamite type personal anecdote on this review. One of my good friends and colleagues, a fellow gastronome, named Alfredo Q. Guzman wouldn’t tell us what the “Q” stands for, so we started calling him “Alfredo Quesadilla Guzman.” We’ll have to bring him to the restaurant bearing his middle name.
The Quesadilla Grille claims to be “the only restaurant in the world which specializes in quesadillas.” It’s an idea whose time has come. It’s a treat long overdue for respect and recognition.
328 San Felipe Street, N.W.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
LATEST VISIT: 8 December 2011
1st VISIT: 27 August 2011
# OF VISITS: 2
BEST BET: Fry Bar, Chips and Salsa, Philly Cheesesteak Quesadilla, Italian Meatball Quesadilla
10 thoughts on “Quesadilla Grille – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)”
Phone says no longer in service.
Yelp says Yelpers say it is Closed.
Gracias, Roberto. This post on the Quesadilla Grille Facebook page confirms they are “gone but not forgotten:”
We have decided to retire from the restaurant business. Thank you Albuquerque for the last 12 years! We appreciate your patronage! —Management of the Quesadilla Grille
I stopped in today to have lunch with my friends. This is great spot to visit in Old Town, and would never have found this place if it were not for Gil and this blog. Thank you! This was my first time at the place, and I absolutely enjoyed the visit. The food was great; service was quick and very friendly. I ordered the Philly cheese steak quesadilla, but also exchanged a piece of mine for the meatball and cheese; both were very tasty and quite filling. It was nice that the owner stopped over and welcomed us; we were really made to feel welcomed. I plan to visit again in the future. It is not easy to find (park near the museum) and come in the eastern side of the plaza shops. It may take some time to find, but you will be in for a pleasant experience.
Now imagine combining a sumptuous Philly Steak sandwich with grilled tortilla–what might be called a Philly Cheesesteak Quesadilla–and you’ll have a sense of what this pretty awesome place is all about. I was joined by some New Mexico Friends who Feast for our year-end festivities and all were pleasantly full after a great meal. Boomer and I had the Cheesesteak Q and Beeal & Sensei had the Meatball. I didn’t think a green chile philly could be as juicy as it was placed between grilled tortilla but it may be one of the best Phillys I have had in NM. Oh, make sure you ask for green chile and tune to ABQ radio station 98.5 after 2pm M-F to hear the owner Chas Malibu be the D.J. of some good oldies music.
The quesadillas came with a generous mound amount of french fries with your choice of special dipping sauces; I fancied the BBQ Mayo. The owner came by and asked if we needed anything more. Sensei mentioned Fries which were promptly brought to our table. I shared them with Boomer and we were happy gentleman. Platters also come with a large drink.
Very friendly people there and I would not have thought this nook would be hidden in old town but lo and behold it was. Again, Sensei did not disappoint. Look forward to returning and hearing how my peers enjoy it here. Note: afternoon on a weekday is a good time to visit–not too crowed and you have the full attention of the server and the owner who are very personal.
Tried this place tonight and absolutely enjoyed our visit. The food was good, service quick and friendly and the prices reasonable. Hubby ordered the Philly cheese steak quesadilla and I had the Sombrero – a vegetarian quesadilla. Both were tasty and quite filling.
Our fries were undercooked, probably because the patio seating area was packed. We asked our waiter to replace them and he said he’d recook them for us and when he’d taken them back to the kitchen, he quickly returned and said the fryer was backed up and it would take a few minutes. He aked if that was okay and was relieved when we said we weren’t in any hurry.
The fries came back fully cooked, piping hot and delicious! We stopped on our way out to speak with the manager and he thanked us for trying them. We said we’d read the review on Gil’s blog and he was happy to hear that. He did say they are getting a larger sign because it is difficult to find the restaurant. I think that would help a lot.
Definitely give this place a try, it’s well worth it!
The Albuquerque Convention & Visitors Bureau (ACVB) confirms my fuzzy memory of a visit: “There is still a Duke of Albuquerque residing in Spain. From time to time, he visits his namesake city.” http://tinyurl.com/4xus6xf
Juan Tabo…LOL: Scroll the “historians” http://tinyurl.com/b2z9y9 and/or
You’re both wrong.
The Duke did not remain in Spain, as he was the viceroy of New Spain and arrived in Mexico City to assume this position in 1702. New Mexico was part of New Spain and even though there’s no documentation that The Duke ever visited NM.
Let’s end this discussion and move on to something even more important.
Who was Juan Tabo???
Erm…all due respect, Gil, you’ve mangled the history of Alburquerque a bit. The first Spanish explorers arrived in 1540 with Francisco de Coronado. Subsequent expeditions brought settlers into the area. In 1706 a group of colonists were given permission by the King of Spain to establish a new town on the Rio Grande. The colonists’ governor, Francisco Cuervo y Valdez, wrote a letter to the Duke of Alburquerque, Spain to report the new town which they named in the Duke’s honor.
The Duke stayed in Spain. He did not come with those settlers. I do believe there is still a Duke of Alburquerque in Spain, but maybe no. The last one I find on Wikipedia is Beltran Alfonso Osorio Diez de Rivera. Also, there is only anecdotal evidence that some of the settlers from Spain came to NM to escape the Inquisition. Most of them were sent here by the King of Spain to look for riches and more land to conquer.
I have no idea if any of them ate quesadillas or not.
The official City of Albuquerque Web site as well as the New Mexico Office of the State Historian Web site do indeed confirm that the Duke of Alburquerque did not set foot in the hamlet which would bear his name. The Quesadilla Grille’s menu, on the other hand, indicates “They (the De Garcia family) left Spain, with the Duke of Albuquerque, and a handful of other families, in 1706, to avoid the Spanish Inquisition and traveled by ship to eventually settle in the Americas in the area known as New Mexico…” Obviously my cluttered mind and feeble memory didn’t recall that the Duke remained in Spain and I took the menu as factual. I apologize for my snafu and thank you for setting me straight.
Yes. Will have to visit because this place looks awesome. On a side note, I always enjoy the New Mexico history lessons you pop into your posts.