Commander’s Palace – Las Vegas, Nevada (CLOSED)

When it comes to accolades, there is perhaps no restaurant in America which has been as venerated as the original Commander’s Palace in New Orleans. From being named the best restaurant in America three times by Food & Wine magazine to being named Zagat’s top New Orleans restaurant for 13 consecutive years (1988-2002) and counting, the Commander’s Palace is truly in a class of its own.

The comfortable climes of the Aladdin Resort and Casino attempt to duplicate the original’s inimitable hospitality, incomparable food, impeccable service and sophisticated Southern stylings. In bringing the Crescent City’s most revered dining institution to the desert, the Brennan family has, for the most part, succeeded in reestablishing its classic restaurant without compromising in any fashion. The Commander’s Palace exudes panache, sophistication, Southern gentility, and sheer awe inspiring class which will leave you agape from the moment you walk in until the minute you walk out.

An eminently polite wait staff treated us like royalty, anticipating and attending to our every need, making polite recommendations without undue pressure and politely apprising us of the restaurant’s uniquely fabulous specials.

We began our lunches with Turtle Soup Au Sherry and Gumbo YaYa, two of the most savory soups we’ve ever had. Surprisingly the gumbo was better than the turtle soup for which the Palace is most famous.

My entree, a crispy oyster Caesar sandwich featured garlic crusted “P&J” Gulf oysters with toasted ciabatta bread, anchovy-garlic emulsion, shaved Laura Chenel’s aged goat milk cheese and crisp greens was probably the best such sandwich I’ve ever had. Kim had a Beef Tenderloin “Pirogue” Sandwich which included roasted and slowly braised beef debris in a rich Creole seasoned au jus, stuffed in French bread and glazed with fontina cheese. Every bite was mouth-watering. Both sandwiches were accompanied by the best sweet potato fries imaginable.

The sole disappointment was in not seeing the signature Bananas Foster flambéed table-side. Whether that accounted for the merely mediocre Bananas Foster or not, I’m not sure, but I do know we’ve had better in riverboat casino restaurants. If the Commander’s Palace is a restaurant for the ages, every detail must be flawless.

Commander’s Palace
3663 Las Vegas Blvd S.
Las Vegas, Nevada
LATEST VISIT: 28 December 2002
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: 24
COST: $$$
BEST BET: Turtle Soup Au Sherry, Gumbo YaYa, Beef Tenderloin “Pirogue” Sandwich

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About Gil Garduno

Since 2008, the tagline on Gil’s Thrilling (And Filling) Blog has invited you to “Follow the Culinary Ruminations of New Mexico’s Sesquipedalian Sybarite.” To date, nearly 1 million visitors have trusted (or at least visited) my recommendations on nearly 1,100 restaurant reviews. Please take a few minutes to tell me what you think. Whether you agree or disagree with me, I'd love to hear about it.

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2 Comments on “Commander’s Palace – Las Vegas, Nevada (CLOSED)”

  1. I worked at Commander’s Las Vegas for the last two years it was open there. The reason that bananas foster was not offered table side was because of the fire laws regarding open flames in restaurant dining rooms. I believe that some of the restaurants located in the older properties (prior to the law changing) where “grandfathered” in to allow table side cooking. After closing in Las Vegas I worked for CP in New Orleans for 7 years and did fosters nightly.

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