Roma Bakery & Deli – Albuquerque, New Mexico

The Roma Bakery & Deli is a culinary oasis north of Albuquerque’s downtown district.

Galdamez and Albertine. If you saw those names on a building, you might expect to see them appended with “Attorneys at Law.” That’s especially true if the building is in the area immediately north of Albuquerque’s burgeoning downtown district, an area teeming with lawyers’ offices and bail bondsmen (is bondspeople the politically correct term?). Instead, the building in which Oscar Galdamez and Bruce Albertine ply their own noble trade houses a diminutive and charming dining establishment, Roma Bakery and Deli. You won’t see their named displayed in any officious self-aggrandizement manner, but it’s a good bet you’ll get to know their names soon enough.

One of the Most Spectacular Pastry Cases in Albuquerque

That’s because frequent return visits are imminent, especially for hungry patrons lucky enough to live or work close to the restaurant. The Roma Bakery and Deli launched in the summer of 2006 and despite seating for only about 40 patrons, this comfy, cozy diner has established itself as a very popular dining destination. Visit during the lunch hour and you’ll find yourself standing in a line that extends from the entrance to the counter at which you place your order. There is no menu overhead, but most of the patrons don’t seem to need it. That familiarity and the banter they exchange with Oscar and the genial staff means they’re regulars.

The Dining Room

While delicious, made-from-scratch food is the big draw, it doesn’t hurt any that Oscar and Bruce are as outgoing as any restaurateurs in town. Oscar, who does the cooking and baking, is from El Salvador but don’t expect any pupusas on the menu any time soon. He frequents the Pupuseria Y Restaurante Salvadoreño for his pupuseria fix. His restaurant launched four months after the popular pupuseria.  Helping Oscar behind the counter is his lovely sister Rosa.  Her perpetual smile and infectious personality make her a popular attraction to the restaurant on her own right

Oscar and His Sister Rosa, Two of the Most Hard-Working and Nice Restaurateurs You’ll Ever Meet

Finding a place to sit during the weekday lunch hour is a challenge so a lot of people call in to-go orders, sometimes for dozens of sandwiches. An early lunch (or late breakfast), say at about 10 o’clock might be your best bet and if you’re not in a hurry, make sure to imbibe the ambiance. The first thing you see when you walk in is a pastry case under glass in which colorful, delicious looking Central American pastries and cookies are put on display. If you do succumb to the tasty temptations, you’ll be heartened to learn that these pastries don’t derive all their flavor from sugar as do many of their American counterparts.

When Possible, Oscar Visits With Guests

Instead, these goodies showcase other distinct tastes. The prominent flavors on the orange raisin scones, for example, are the citrusy freshness of oranges and the sunny sweetness of sultana (golden raisins). The coconut butter cookies are indeed buttery and studded with smoked coconut flakes (not unlike coconut macaroons which bear a surprising similarity in appearance).  A chocolate chip cookie accompanies every sandwich order, but if you’re in the mood for some other type of cookie (peanut butter cookie is outstanding), just ask nicely.  Make sure to pick up some empanadas (apricot, pumpkin and cherry are particularly good).  They rival Golden Crown Panaderia for best in town.

Two Apricot Turnovers and Two Cherry Turnovers

The walls are festooned with giclee prints of original Julie Maas pastels, all very reasonably priced. Interspersed among the colorful giclees are paintings of automotive designed concepts from the 1960s, all painted by Miller Johnson, a retired automobile designer. The building which houses restaurant still has old-fashioned windows which open and close with a crank handle. It’s one of the deli’s charms, along with the worldly eclectic music which plays mostly upbeat and tunes mostly in Spanish (including mariachi and bolero) continuously.

Coconut Butter Cookies

The menu features five deli-style sandwiches and two croissant sandwiches made on all-butter croissants made in-house. Four salad options, a soup of the day (on Tuesdays, it’s Baja Lobster Bisque, a bisque spiced up with sauteed jalapeno and tomatoes with fresh cilantro tossed in) and two breakfast entrees (breakfast burrito and breakfast croissant) are also available, albeit served only until 10:30AM. A chocolate chip cookie is served with every sandwich. When you bite down on this cookie, you might forever swear off anything baked by an elf. The chocolate practically oozes out with each heavenly bite.

On the left, the 5th Street Grilled Cubano and on the right, The Rostisado.
On the left, the 5th Street Grilled Cubano and on the right, The Rostisado.

15 March 2007: Perhaps the most popular sandwich on the menu is the 5th Street Grilled Cubano, a slight departure from the traditional Cuban sandwich Duke City diners have embraced with a passion. This Cubano is crafted from tender marinated pork loin and Swiss cheese with fresh spinach, pickle and a Citrus dressing (a marinade of lime and orange juices, onion and garlic) all grilled on an in-house baked Roma baguette. It is served warm and is as comforting and delicious a sandwich as you’ll find anywhere in the Duke City. The freshly baked, just out-of-the-oven baguette (crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside) is a perfect canvas for any sandwich, especially panini. The citrus dressing, a tangy elixir may just transport you to Miami.

The Cubano

15 March 2007: Perhaps even better (if possible) is a sandwich called The Rostisado. This beauty is crafted with slow-roasted beef, pepper Jack cheese, marinated Italian red peppers, lettuce and a proprietary Bistro sauce. The roast beef is roasted on the premises (as are the pork and turkey) and it is piled high on a fresh-baked Roma French roll. It’s a very tender roast beef which might just rekindle memories of mom’s pot roast. The Italian peppers (roasted and marinated in oil and oregano) are so good, you might want to order a separate Italian red pepper salad (for a mere pittance more).

2 November 2022: Having an office within easy walking distance of the Roma Bakery & Deli was one of the very few perquisites of my Kim’s former job. Over the years she sampled virtually everything on the menu several times over. She raves so much about the croissants that not having one was not an option for me. The Southwest Tuna Croissant is the very best tuna-based sandwich I’ve had in New Mexico (and as my readers know, one of my life’s quests is to find a tuna sandwich equal to those in Massachusetts). This one is close! The tuna is as fresh as is possible and it’s not overwhelmed by mayo or salad cream. Instead, it’s ameliorated with just enough finely chopped jalapeño peppers to earn its sobriquet and give the tuna a discernible punch without detracting from the freshness of the tuna. Onion, cilantro and tomatoes are the only other ameliorants. The croissant is buttery, soft and flaky (though not overly so).

Southwest Tuna Croissant

A separate deli case displays the deli’s various salads, all of which appear as fresh and inviting as possible. The Southwest Tuna Salad, a cool mound of the aforementioned tuna on a bed of fresh mixed greens, will forever be my choice after having experienced that tuna on a croissant. The pasta salad, however, is no bride’s maid. In a city where it may be impossible to find a good pasta salad, this is a great one. Salads are available in small or regular sizes. The soup-of-the-day is made daily from fresh ingredients. Monday is green chile stew day, a cause for celebration in Albuquerque.

2 November 2022:  For some of us, chile may as well be chili if it doesn’t have the requisite piquancy we crave.  For me, there’s only one exception.  That’s carne adovada.  It’s the sole chile ameliorated dish that actually shouldn’t be overly piquant.  A mild red chile marinade should put the focus on the pork, tender tendrils of which should pull apart so very easily.  Pork requires subtlety and patience not  in-your-face assertiveness, not the “pain is a flavor” chile some of us love so much.  The Roma Bakery & Deli has the formula down pat.  Its carne adovada burrito is delicate and as tender as a hummingbird with about as much heat as spaghetti sauce.  That’s the way my Kim loves her carne adovada.

Carne Adovada Burrito

The name “Roma,” by the way, has nothing to do with the Italian city by that name or with the wine which once sponsored Championship Wrestling on Channel 7 (does anybody remember  Venezuelan heel Cyclone Negro panning Duke City drunks?…is the politically correct term “chemically inconvenienced”?). It has everything to do with being located on Roma Avenue. The Roma Bakery & Deli is open on weekdays from 7AM to 2PM. It’s closed on Saturday and Sunday.

This tiny gem has been called one of downtown’s best kept secrets. Frankly, it’s far too good to be a secret. This is the type of treasure the downtown revitalization folks and Albuquerque tourism should trumpet with pride. Residents and tourists can’t live on chile alone.

Roma Bakery & Deli
501 Roma, N.W.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 843-9418
Web Site

LATEST VISIT: 2 November 2022
1st VISIT: 15 March 2007
# OF VISITS: 4
RATING: 22
COST: $$
BEST BET: The 5th Street Grilled Cubano, The Rostisado, Southwest Tuna Croissant, Pasta Salad, Red Pepper Deli Salad, Coconut Butter Cookies, Orange Raisin Scone, Pumpkin Empanaditas, Raspberry Margaritas, Apricot Empanadas, Cherry Empanadas, Carne Adovada Burrito

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Maere McNamara
Maere McNamara
1 year ago

Jim discovered this by accident yesterday as I had to deal with the court clerk’s office. You can’t take a phone in the building and i didn’t know how long I’d be so he circled around and checked back every 20 min. One of those circles had him in front of Roma and he stopped and had one of the best breakfast burritos ever. Lobster bisque soup was on the menu but not yet ready. I have a hard time find soup without chile (heresy but I can’t handle it) We split a rotisado and each had a soup. Jim liked the chicken soup and I loved the gazpacho which only had a bit of jalapeno and was not hot. We both loved the crunchy baguette (as opposed to the usual soft spongy bun often offered elsewhere).. Oscar was very welcoming and let me have a taste of the gazpacho. The cherry topped cookie was delicious. Big plus that they update their website every day with the specials. Will definitely go back.

Karen
Karen
2 years ago

Amazing food….delightful choices…all with a smile!

BOTVLR
BOTVLR
8 years ago

Yo…Thanks for the heads-up about lawyers! Nothing personal, but I went after the Noon hour.
Note: Today’s building facade is much more chic than pictured above. Also, while Gil’s photographic renderings are of art like quality, the pic of the display case of YumYums is very subdued, IMHO, for some reason. I say that because in Reality/Face-to-Face, the display of empanadas, muffins, etc is almost, for lack of a better term, pornographic! Lastly, while parking “downtown” might seem offputting and while I lament the erosion of street parking that has occurred the past several decades, I still relish we still have a bit of that “small town” feel as seen here http://tinyurl.com/lj25rpn I.e. It only took me two spins around the block to catch a space!!!! and it had plenty of time left on the meter!!! I guess that’s what the Millennials are calling “Playing It Forward”!!!
~ While I was expecting a somewhat hole-in-the-wall ambiance, I’m thinking Y’all will be impressed with this neat and tidy “foyer” for ordering AND the dining area. IMHO, it reflects a pride of ownership that many “sandwich shoppes” might do well to emulate for a little warmth to garner return visits. Just a little extra attention beyond ‘It’s all about the food’, might stave off a closing day that we see so often around town.
~ I had the Rostisado. Their Roast Beef has that readily tasty, unique flavor and is tender so as not having to fight a piece off. T’wasn’t overpowered by either the ‘marinated’ red peppers or house sauce, but all blended well while still being individually discernible…if that makes sense. My disappointment was in having to fight the “crustiness” of the roll. Even if “fresh baked”, it should last till closing. Alas, my bad, I should’ve spoken up to ask for it to be re-made in one of the flaky looking croissants.
Another disappointement…but which applies to many restaurants: being open for lunch/breakfast only (7-2, M-F)! I ‘get’ the economics of astute economic management! But Geesh, if only to experiment with being open either a Friday or Saturday 5-7 PM for some of us odd balls who otherwise can’t make it daytime….LOL!
Bottom Line: If ya ain’t been, yer missin out…IMHO Oh, Oh…did I mention how much I enjoyed the complimentary Chocolaty Chipped Cookie later that night while watching The Kelly File? Well I did!
Cin Cin! Salud! Columbus Day!

LC
LC
8 years ago

Roma Bakery is the best downtown lunch spot. The spicy tuna salad on a baguette is a perfect combination. I love how friendly and gracious Oscar is. And their frosted sugar cookies are buttery, flakey, and oh so tasty.

Clafoutis has great begniets (sp?)
Clafoutis has great begniets (sp?)
9 years ago

Todd is right about the pastries at Clafoutis. The begniets (however you spell it) are AWESOME. They are only available on Saturdays, until they run out. So get ’em early. I’ve only eaten one “meal” there. It was the Quiche Lorraine. Pretty good. Not as good as the one that Chez Bob used to make for lunch, but still pretty darn good. Get the begniets, it won’t matter what else you ate, that is all you are going to remember!

Todd Filippini
Todd Filippini
9 years ago

This is the most useful blog I have ever encountered – for any purpose. Truly great work! I hope you get the chance to visit Clafoutis on Guadalupe St. in Santa Fe. It is right next to a Blake’s Lotaburger. Clafoutis has first-rate pastries and coffee, and a good menu. Again..great job!

Jim Millington
Jim Millington
9 years ago

Anthony Anagnostu needs to be at least a little careful about his slander and who the hell is this jerk. I have never been in Roma Bakery & Deli in Albuquerque nor or met the owners who has absolutely no connection with Belle Roma Bakery or Isabella’s Italian Market or The Roma Bakery in Port St Lucie Florida or the Brancaccio family. What is this sorry attack about other than a restaurant name being a little similar.

Anthony Anagnostu
Anthony Anagnostu
9 years ago

First of all if you eat at Belle Roma Bakery or Isabella’s Italian Market or The Roma Bakery in Port St Lucie Florida – or Ft Pierce – you are supporting the murderous Brancaccio family. Way back in the 90’s Victor Brancaccio murdered some old lady named Frazier where he beat her up until she died. Then the family hits the lottery like a year later or something ok? They got rich off of killing an old grandmother can you believe that? Look go to Dominoes or something. The Brancaccio family is NOT sorry. They only care about money and getting Victor out of trouble. Some of the other people in the family are crooked too like Albert Brancaccio. Anyhow, dont eat at The Roma Bakery and Pizzeria at Rio Mar Drive and U.S. 1. Because if you do then you are supporting murderers.

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