Casa Grande Restaurant – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Arizona’s Casa Grande Ruins National Monument is one of the largest and most mysterious prehistoric structures ever built in North America and serves as the most impressive remnant left by the Hohokam (those who are gone) culture. In many ways, Albuquerque’s Casa Grande restaurant may be a remnant, too–albeit, a remnant of restaurants which prepare unadulterated New Mexican food made to order with the realization that tourists really might want to try authentically piquant and seasoned food as the locals would prepare it. More than most restaurants in Albuquerque, particularly those in the Old Town area, Casa Grande does prepare meals that taste as if your own abuela might have made them. It doesn’t insult tourists by serving them the Anglciized concoctions proffered at the chains of pseudo Mexican restaurants in their own cities. A hearty bowl of green chile, for example, maintains the olfactory arousing aroma of chile roasted on a comal. Ameliorated with well seasoned hamburger, the green chile is among the city’s very best. It’s exceptional on its own or on enchiladas. You certainly want all your olfactory receptors working optimally when you bite into the beef burrito or beef enchiladas with red chile. It’s a chile…

Chilepeños – Sandia Park, New Mexico (CLOSED)

How many of us are old enough to remember the amusement park test of strength in which testosterone laden men slam an oversized hammer on a target in an effort to propel an object up a pole to ring a bell at the top? Ringing the bell labeled you a powerhouse while propelling the object to a lesser level attached a label corresponding to your relative strength (such as wimp, wuss, milksop or worse). At Chilepeos, red and green chile scales label the heat of the day’s chile. The scale’s labels are wimpy, gringo, macho and muy hombre (much man). Far too many New Mexican restaurants serve chile deserving the wimpy or gringo label. As such we were very much looking forward to sampling the chile at Chilepeos, a chile two very reliable sources assured me would get our attention. As is often the case with restaurant recommendations, Murphy’s Law rears its ugly head and the restaurant recommended to us had an off night. Such was the case during our inaugural visit to Chilepeos. Not only was the chile not particularly piquant (gringo at best), it was drastically over-salted (a problem plaguing many New Mexican restaurants). Despite Murphy, we genuinely…

The Burrito Wagon – Taos, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Elvis Presley once crooned about “Memories pressed between the pages of my mind–memories sweetened through the ages just like wine.” Sometimes memories take you back to an idyllic time or place when things were simpler and food tasted better. Such is the case with my memories of the Burrito Wagon, a Taos institution I began frequenting shortly after its 1970 launch. No stereotypical “roach coach” to be derided and laughed at was this mobile kitchen serving the finest overstuffed burritos in Northern New Mexico. In my romantic’s mind, my unabashed affection for the Burrito Wagon took me to that idyllic time and place. Alas, the reality was that because the Burrito Wagon is not open on weekends, we hadn’t visited since 1999. A September, 2004 visit saw my idyllic memories shattered and cruel reality set in. The Burrito Wagon just isn’t the same restaurant that warranted delicious dreams. That reality set in when we discovered beans, ground beef and chile ensconced in store bought tortillas similar to the inferior products proffered by real roach coaches. If memory serves me right, The Wagon’s burritos once featured tortillas that tasted as if they were freshly extricated from a hot comal. My recollections…

Chilacas – Albuquerque, New Mexico

In the vernacular of the cannabis consuming culture “rollin’ fat ones” means something entirely different than what it means at Chilacas where a “fat one” is a giant flour tortilla stuffed with your choice of Spanish rice or cilantro and lime spiked rice; black beans, posole or refried beans; your choice of meat–spiced beef, carne adovada, barbacoa, pollo; salsa or red or green chile; cheddar cheese or sour cream and such additives as lettuce, tomatoes and onions. All of these ingredients can also find a home layered on a Chilacas bowl, served on an order of three tacos or atop a crisp romaine salad and even served low carb style. Chilacas, which according to a placard on a restaurant wall is a Mexican slang word for New Mexico chiles, is a 2004 entrant into the Albuquerque dining scene. Although innovative for Albuquerque, it follows the concept of Chipotle’s which has a national presence. Chilacas first restaurant in the Land of Enchantment launched in Santa Fe in 2003 but closed within three years. With a production line preparation style reminiscent of Subway, it has a special appeal to people on the go and to youth. That might account for the loud…