Not long after Superbowl XL’s halftime show began, a veil of theatrical smoke enveloped the stage, dissipating slowly to reveal the legendary featured performers, the immortal Rolling Stones. First the camera panned to a gyrating Mick Jagger who got the frenzied crowd rollicking with Start Me Up. When the camera focused on Keith Richards, my sister-in-law asked when the Cryptkeeper (from the 1990s horror anthology television series Tales From The Crypt) joined the Stones. We spent the halftime show making fun of the then-63-year-old rocker who looked much older thanks to a life of debauchery.
When the last commercial began before the game resumed, I reminded our guests that despite looking like a decrepit old duffer, Keith Richards was considered one of the best guitar players in the world (in 2015, Rolling Stone named him the fourth greatest guitarist in history.) That didn’t impress them as much as watching a video afterwards of Richards playing Malagueña, a classical Spanish Guitar composition that evokes the spirit of Spain. Malagueña, a composition which requires exceptional deftness and skill, was actually the very first song Richards learned. No one in our party joked about the Granny Clampett look-alike playing the banjo.
For Chef Javier Montaño, an Albuquerque native and (like me) a scion of Galicia in Spain, Malagueña resonates deeply. When he and his beauteous bride Molly relocated from San Francisco to the Duke City, it made sense that their restaurant venture would be named for the profoundly soulful song which captures the essence of Spain so well. While well cognizant of the barbarous atrocities perpetrated throughout the Americas by Spanish conquistadores, Javier’s focus is on the positive cultural and culinary aspects of the Spanish influence. Promising a fresh twist on Spanish and Latin American Cuisine, the Montaños are taking traditional ingredients and culinary ideas from throughout Latin America and interpreting them in delicious ways. After our inaugural sampling of Malagueña’s fare, my Kim called it “five-star food from a food truck.”
Yes, some of the very best Latin American cuisine in the Duke City exists not in a brick and mortar operation, but in a mobile food kitchen. With thirty years experience as a chef, Javier well knows that the three keys to success as a brick and mortar restaurant are location, location and location. A brick and mortar might come later. For now, the Montaños are having a blast meeting and interacting with very savvy and receptive diners. They’ve now had their mobile food kitchen for three months (as of July, 2017), but have enjoyed a promising start.
Before moving to San Francisco, Javier plied his chef skills at some of New Mexico’s most highly acclaimed restaurants including Scalo in Albuquerque and the Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe. In the City by the Bay, he served as chef at Fog City and at Guckenheimer, a corporate food service provider. Also in San Francisco he met and married Molly who worked at the time as a gourmet food representative. Their passion for food is obvious. Speak with them for just a while and you’ll come away impressed with their commitment to creating a harmonious interplay from the premium ingredients they use.
Take, for example, their use of beautifully marbled wagyu beef from Lone Mountain Wagyu in Golden, New Mexico. Wagyu beef is beef self-actualized, as good as it can be. It’s luxurious, buttery and high in saturated fats (which, contrary to some nutrition know-it-alls tell us has many health benefits). Wagyu is regarded as some of the best beef in the world. Beef this exclusive and premium shouldn’t be prepared on just any old grill. Javier worked with an Argentine friend (and few people know beef as well as Argentines do) to construct an Argentinian-style pit for grilling meats low and slow in a shallow pile of glowing coals.
8 July 2017: The results are some of the most unctuous, tender, rich and absolutely delicious beef we’ve had in quite a while. Three thinly sliced seared strips of wagyu prepared at medium-rare graced the surf and turf special of the day that also included chimichurri, a spicy shrimp skewer on roasted Spanish potatoes with an aji amarillo aioli. A surf and turf special of this caliber is usually served with cloth napkins and silverware, not on a paper food tray. The three shrimp on a wooden skewer are fresh and firm with a characteristic snap when you bite into them. They’re lightly dusted with a spice mix that gives them a lively flavor profile that complements a grilled flavor. The roasted Spanish potatoes are sliced into small cubes and have sweet-savory notes that go so well with the aji amarillo aioli.
8 July 2017: Amarillo aji, a ubiquitous fixture in Peruvian cuisine, also plays a prominent part in another fabulous entree–the ceviche mixto. Ceviche is the national dish of Peru and the coastal nation’s most popular dish: fresh, raw, white fish cut into smaller than bite-size cubes, marinated and “cooked” in lime juice and seasoned with Peruvian chili peppers (often aji), onions and salt. There are literally hundreds of variations of Peruvian ceviche. Malagueña’s version includes not only the fish of the day, but calimari and chicharrones as well as ginger, garlic and pepitas. The aji amarillo, a thick-fleshed chile with a medium to hot heat level works very well with the lime and ginger to imprint the sensation of invigorating freshness in your mouth. You haven’t had ceviche until you’ve enjoyed a Peruvian version of this manna from the sea. Malagueña’s version would make a Peruvian swoon.
8 July 2017: When my Kim ordered Malagueña’s lomo burrito, my first inclination was to dismiss it as just another boring burrito, the same as so many others. Even after Javier cut it in half to reveal edible art reminiscent of a beautiful stained glass window, I remained a cynical skeptic. Then my Kim slid a heaping forkful into my mouth. The lomo burrito (marinated beef with chopped red onions, fries, tomatoes, rice, lettuce, sour cream and rocoto chile sauce wrapped in a thin flour tortilla) may be the very best burrito we’ve had in three years or longer. Rocoto is one of Peru’s most piquant chiles, an incendiary pepper that’ll set your mouth on fire if you eat it straight off the plant. Javier tames the chile in sauce form so that its emphasis isn’t solely heat, but the sweet-fruity notes that really define this pepper. The rocoto sauce allows the lomo (the Spanish term for loin) to shine. It’s tender and delicious with a magical marinade that compliments its beefy flavor.
8 July 2017: After polishing off our entrees and being fully sated, you’d think we could walk away contented, but we wanted to have even more of the explosions of flavors that characterized our inaugural visit to Malagueña’s. Our solution: take home two Choripan (Argentinian spicy sausage sandwich with chimichuri and salsa fresca on a toasted bun). Choripan is in Argentina what the hot dog is in the United States, perhaps the ultimate street food. Choripan is obviously a portmanteau from the words chorizo, a sausage, and pan, meaning bread. Take my word for it, Malagueña’s choripan is better than about one-hundred-percent of the hot dogs you’ll find in the Duke City. It’s better than a Wisconsin brats, too. Wow, is this an excellent sandwich.
As might be expected from a mobile food kitchen, Malagueña’s menu is on the small side, listing fewer than a dozen items. If our initial and second visits are any indication, you’ll want to try them all. Aside from the items so inadequately described by me above, the menu on the date of our inaugural visit listed chicken pintxos (sherry, garlic chicken skewers), salt and vinegar fries, papas bravas (seasoned crispy fries with smoked tomato aioli), a spring salad (greens, nectarines, feta, almonds and mint in a charred lime vinaigrette) and a coconut pudding (with coconut, peanuts and sesame). Javier apprised us that he and Molly plan to change up the menu frequently to keep things lively and fresh. Lively, fresh, delicious…these are the hallmarks of Malagueña.
18 November 2017: Habitues of Gil’s Thrilling… may have noticed that Malagueña’s Latin Tapas has now earned the very first rating of 25 I’ve ever accorded to a mobile food kitchen, placing it in rarefied company as one of my highest rated restaurants in the Land of Enchantment. That’s not just one of my highest rated food trucks. It’s among my highest rated restaurants of any type: brick and mortar, mobile food kitchen, fine dining, etc. The flavors coaxed by Chef Javier and Molly from the highest quality ingredients can’t be contained. Nor can they go without notice. Before celebrating its one year anniversary, Malagueña’s has earned so much critical acclaim that it was one of ten nominees for the Edible Local Heroes award in the food truck category. It’s the best vote you’ll cast.
18 November 2017: Javier reminisced about the creative liberties he enjoyed as a young chef working at Fuego, then the high-end fine-dining gem at La Posada de Santa Fe. Working alongside another youthful prodigy named Maxime Bouneou, he fondly recalled creating a dinner salad offered for the then (and maybe even now) unfathomable price of thirty dollars. Despite that lofty price point, the salad flew off the menu (and that was more than two decades ago). The reason–it was constructed with quite literally the finest ingredients available: jamon Iberico, aged Balsamico, premium olive oil, etc.
Javier is well aware that in a food truck market where the expectation is often nachos and tacos, he can’t possibly proffer a gourmet salad approximating the price of Fuego’s lavish gallimaufry. What he does offer is the best five dollar salad you’ll ever have. Talk about a different kind of sticker shock. For a salad of such quality, we would have paid three times the amount. The canvas for Malagueña’s autumn salad is locally grown little gem lettuces from a north valley farmer. Not only are locally grown greens much more fresh and flavorful, they retain the nutritional value absent in greens shipped for hundreds of miles before making it to your grocery. Playing six-part harmony with the little gem lettuces are thinly sliced apples, cranberries, goat cheese and cinnamon pecans in a maple vinaigrette. The interplay between ingredients, textures and flavors–sweet, savory, tartness, earthiness–will enthrall your taste buds.
18 November 2017: One of the most surprising culinary trends across the fruited plain over the past two years has been the ascendancy of cacio e pepe, literally “cheese and pepper,” or as described by some sources as a “minimalist mac and cheese.” Essentially just long, stringy noodles tossed in olive oil, Parmesan cheese, Pecorino and cracked pepper, cacio e pepe is terrific, but hardly worthy of the adulation it’s received. Much better by several orders of magnitude is the simply named garlic noodles from Malagueña’s.
Two of the many essential ingredients in my Kim’s kitchen repertoire are noodles and garlic, ingredients which not only go very well together, they complement virtually everything else. Yeah, I know there are plenty of you who share a vampire-like affinity with garlic, but for those of us with heightened tasted buds, garlic is glorious. Malagueña’s garlic noodles lists only two other ingredients ( butter and Parmesan), but there’s so much more going on in this simple dish with complex flavors. There is, for example, the delightful caramelization of garlic, an alchemic process made possible by its catalytic interaction with Turbinado sugar (from pure cane sugar extract). The caramelization doesn’t take away garlic’s strong, sharp, pungent flavor. It makes it more interesting. Then there’s the acidic notes of shredded Parmesan, the creaminess of butter and the experiential delight of slurping up noodles. Let’s face it, these are self-actualized garlic noodles, as good as they can be!
18 November 2017: Throughout Mexico and often using makeshift grills on ramshackle roadside stands, intrepid cooks aren’t afraid to let chicken skin blacken on the outside while the chicken cooks through on the inside. Their technique involves two steps: a simple achiote-based marinade and slow-roasting over charcoal. Known as pollo al carbon (literally “to the coals”), this poultry preparation style hasn’t caught on as widely across the fruited plain (perhaps because the technique isn’t exactly the most clean). The Duke City’s sole sit-down purveyor (El Pollo Real) of pollo al carbon closed down in 2014 while a poultry purveying mobile kitchen (El Chicken 100% Carbon) has been inactive since the onset of the dreaded Albuquerque Rapid Transit (ART) project.
It’s no surprise that Javier and Molly would be great fans of pollo al carbon. Nor should it comes as a surprise that their interpretation of chicken carbon is absolutely delicious and wholly unique. Instead of the spatchcocked chicken favored in Old Mexico, Malagueña’s rendition showcases marinated juicy chicken skewers topped with a smoked tomato salsa. The marinade includes Worcestershire sauce and achiote, a bright orange-red spice vastly underutilized in New Mexico. Achiote marinade imparts a distinctively peppery aroma and a subtle flavor described by The Kitchn as nutty, sweet, and earthy. The marinade also facilitates the beauteous blackening of the skin that seals in juices and flavors. The fresh smoked tomato salsa is yet another example of Malagueña’s commitment to freshness and fine ingredients. Neither sauce-like nor runny as some salsas tend to be, it’s premium tomatoes and red onions cut up into small chunks.
18 November 2017: Among carnivores, the matter of baby back ribs or St. Louis ribs is oft debated. Baby backs are favored in the barbecue community because their meat is ubiquitous. It’s found between the bones and on top of the bones. Baby backs are shorter, curved, and usually meatier and leaner than St. Louis ribs. Those of us who favor the latter know St. Louis ribs have more fat content (and fat does mean flavor) and tend to be more tender then baby backs. Sure, St. Louis ribs have more bone, but they also have more meat.
It made me very happy to see Malagueña’s featuring St. Louis ribs with coffee red chile rub on the late Fall menu. Coffee, Javier explained, is an underused ingredient in cooking and as aficionados know, coffee has almost twice as many flavor-characteristics discernible by human senses than wine does (take that oenophiles). Pair coffee (Javier uses New Mexico Piñon Coffee) with red chile and you’ve got two of the most flavorful ingredients conceivable. It makes for a fantastic rub. Neither the coffee nor the red chile dominate. Instead, notes from each coalesce into a delicious dream slathered on top of meaty ribs. Wow! Javier knows ribs! He also knows New Mexico and knows there’s no better accompaniment for ribs than beans. No, not the molasses-based beans served at barbecues across the fruited plain. When in New Mexico, you serve pinto beans, the official state vegetable of the land of Enchantment. A single bread roll completes a plate that feels like summer but would be great any time of year.
When he’s not prepping for his busy days on Malagueña, Javier teaches students knife skills and how to prepare everyday foods at New Day Youth & Family Services’ Gourmet Grub, a cooking class with the goal of helping Albuquerque’s at-risk youth stay off the streets and gain valuable experience in the food service industry for their future. In this capacity, he works closely with his brother Sean, part owner and general manager of Monroe’s, one of Albuquerque’s most popular New Mexican restaurants.
My Kim may have said it best: “Malagueña offers five-star cuisine in a food truck.” It is the best mobile food kitchen we’ve experienced in the Duke City. Javier and Molly are taking Latin American cuisine to new heights. If you hear of them rolling down your neighborhood, run, don’t walk to this wonderful addition to the Duke City culinary scene.
MALAGUEÑA’S LATIN TAPAS
Albuquerque, New Mexico
LATEST VISIT: 18 November 2017
1st VISIT: 8 July 2017
# OF VISITS: 2
BEST BET: Lomo Burrito, Ceviche Mixto, Choripan, Special Surf & Turf, Autumn Salad, Garlic Noodles, Chicken Carbon, St. Louis Ribs with Coffee Red Chile Rub
17 thoughts on “MALAGUEÑA’S LATIN TAPAS – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)”
I will look for them in the Northeast. In the meantime, just after reading this review I came across a recipe for Garlic Noodles with an Asian twist that I have to make, from a blogger I follow:
OMG, let me say Alonna, your Seonkyoung is a most creative, albeit slightly loquaciously, demonstrative, Foodie presenter!
Be that as it may: Not being much of a home cooker, I couldn’t help being entranced by her video and her initial melding of ingredients for her sauce which somehow she then infuses into her Angel Hair albeit it somehow magically disappears…seemingly “without a trace”!!! What’s with that?
While I look forward to having a Combo of Garlic Noodle juxtaposed with an accompanying Autumn Salad at the Mobile Truque, I will look forward to your, Alonna’s home, “analytic comparison” to Seonkyoung’s home version!!!!
Be that as it may and while speaking of Malaguena, I must confess it brings to mind fond memories while being a roller skater as a Tween: Lo that some Chica and I might have “done it” while skating. Alas, and albeit this is ice and I’d have some different…well uh…exotic moves, enjoy: http://tinyurl.com/y72lf5ps
Is there such a thing as being T O O M U C H InSync? How do they do that? What is going on in each individual brain to bring it about!
May have “done it” while skating???
I hope it’s not what I think it is.
Why is that pertinent to anything?
Done what, BOTVOLR?
I’m getting queasy just considering your possible answer.
Gil, Wow, thank you so much for dining with us on Saturday. Javier and I are beyond thrilled by your review. The detail and accuracy with which you write should leave many journalists envious. I do not remember you taking any notes either. Malaguena’s is our dream. It took years of working hard for other people to get to a place where we can do what we love working for ourselves. Mostly we just want to bring people food that we would want to eat. We hope to offer Albuquerque something a little bit different. Javier is a perfectionist in his kitchen and it feels great to have his food receive such high praise. We are working on some new recipe ideas now. Not sure what the future has in store for us but we are sure enjoying the journey. We look forward to seeing you again soon.
Well, seems like you are going to need a Food Truque subsection given your descriptions/pics herein especially having had my first food truck venture per your previous stop at TFK https://www.nmgastronome.com/?p=43295 where I later went to substitute their to-die-for Hawaii 505 BBQ Pork concoction as they were out of the GCCS.
– Speaking of “duffers” and Malaguena, makes me reminisce being a teen trying to roller skate to this duffer’s version http://tinyurl.com/y9c4lnga . Alas, your link to Keith is just a teaser for something like this http://tinyurl.com/l8zznmk Speaking of teasing, look at all the duffers herein http://tinyurl.com/yanoaygb Can only imagine ‘they’ be playing it this weekend at Mariachi Spectacular at Sandia Amphitheater. (Lest one not know it’s purpose preceding this culmination of a week: http://tinyurl.com/ol396uk )
– Check “Calendar” on the website for upcoming locations of The Malaguena Truquee! Bienvenidos to them!
– PS: Can you actually buy a slab like that pictured of the Marbled Wagyu Beef from Lone Mountain Wagyu in Golden, NM? Having that and some dipping sauces to munch on could seriously get me watching more football!
Ya know, if you will pardon, my apologies to Charo. Eons ago Charo was often presented as somewhat of an airhead http://tinyurl.com/m26zza6. Looking back, one might but wonder if this was her kinda only way of being a “performer” given her ethnicity, language skills, looks, and being a woman in general in a past era. Lo, to my chagrin, I didn’t click on one of several clickables on the Right per the earlier guitarist, to add her as being proficient in the guitaring of Malaguena (and other music) as well. Viva Chica….http://tinyurl.com/y7q9wj8q
Bob, if you were a fan of Johnny Carson, you might remember that he played along with her “Shtick”, but he always honored her talent as a musician and performer. She never failed to impress when asked to perform with Doc and the band or even as a solo artist. And… she and Johnny were funny together.
Yo Roland….Thanks for the reminder RE very missed Johnny Carson (and Leno). Your yankin my chain brings in fuzzy remembrances. Tried Google Videos….many seemed to Guest Host with Charo. Separately, you’ll never guess who else’s show she was on…What a hoot: http://tinyurl.com/y7mso9s9
Enjoyed the interview showing a rather astute businesswoman who knew how to find her way, after her father’s rather difficult interaction with the Franco regime. Seems he was lucky to get 24 hours to depart, given some of Franco’s cooperative efforts with Hitler. Sounds like Charo made the best of a potentially bad situation. And it paid off hansomely for her. Probably not the airhead she appeared to be at times. Way to Go!
The “Restaurants by Category” does include a category called “Mobile Food Kitchens” in which Malaguena, TFK Smokehouse and others are listed. The term “food truck” evokes images of roach coaches. Mobile Food Kitchens seems to be a more apt description.
You can indeed purchase meats from Lone Mountain Wagyu. Go here for your next purchase of some unctuous, fabulous beef.
Roach Coaches? Not sure where you be coming from Gil, but Alas, this is what comes to mind: Pardon and not meaning to cast aspersions on these Folks as these are only meant to be “representational”, I can’t help but to think http://tinyurl.com/y9zpktk6 or http://tinyurl.com/yb85u243 or RIP: http://tinyurl.com/y7j4jmyn might have been considered true Roach Coaches.
Whoa! for those of Y’all into or have SOs into the Coloring Book fad, check this out http://tinyurl.com/y8eq5tnm
– Thanks for the purchase tip for the Lone Mountain Wagyu meats! Alas, with all due respect for the Product Sets, I’ll have to somehow parlay my Social Security COLAS or gifting from family.
I first heard the term “roach coach” during basic training at Lackland AFB. During infrequent breaks, drill sergeants would bark out “smoke ’em if you’ve got ’em.” The non-smokers among us would scurry (not unlike roaches) toward the “roach coaches” parked nearby.
Wisegeek defines roach coaches thusly: The trend of calling a food truck a “roach coach” is a reference to the sometimes less than sanitary conditions inside. Many food truck operators strive to maintain cleanliness, but it can be challenging in a cramped, mobile environment. As a result, a roach coach can become quite attractive to cockroaches and other pests which feed on dropped food and appreciate dark, greasy corners.
In 2009, New York Magazine noted that the food truck had “largely transcended its roach-coach classification and is now a respectable venue for aspiring chefs to launch careers.
Out of the great respect I have for the great chefs who ply their trades in mobile food kitchens, I won’t refer to their motorized conveyances as either “roach coaches” or “food trucks.” The term “food trucks” doesn’t sufficiently convey the extent of the magic possible from mobile kitchens.
Your perception makes great sense, too.
Just wanted to let Gil’s followers know we will have a Wagyu beef special tomorrow Saturday July 22, 2017 at Marble Westside. It will feature local Vidaverde tomatoes and M’Tuccis bread. Limited quantity… come early!
They have to come to Truckin’ Tuesdays at Civic Plaza! Have to! Have to! Have to!!!
Malaguena’s current schedule (posted in their Facebook page) doesn’t include Truckin’ Tuesdays, but perhaps Javier and Molly could be persuaded to attend. On Thursday they’ll be at the Marble Brewery. Maybe I’ll see you there.
Thanks for the heads up on this food truck, I’ll have to give it a shot. If you get a chance try Don Choche. Hangs out of the Marble heights location. It’s delicious, and reasonable.
Thanks, Mike. Don Choche sounds terrific!