Although popular myth attributes the introduction of pasta in Italy to Marco Polo, pasta’s origins in Lo Stivale can be traced back as far as the 4th century B.C. That’s when the Etruscan civilization-which existed in the Tuscany region from the 8th to the 3rd century BCE–began the centuries old love affair between Italians and pasta. Culinary historians agree that pasta’s earliest roots begin in China, during the Shang Dynasty (1700-1100 BC), where some form of pasta was made with either wheat or rice flour. Pasta also appears to have been part of the ancient Greek diet in the first millennium B.C. Africa also had its own form of pasta (made with the kamut crop).
Despite being first to create pasta, you don’t often hear the term “pasta” associated with China. That’s because there’s a difference between pasta and noodles. The National Pasta Association defines pasta as being “a dough made from durum wheat and water and stamped into different shapes.” Noodles, on the other hand, aren’t linked to one particular grain. Nona Lin, a wonderful website explains: “From buckwheat noodles to rice noodles, yam noodles, and wheat flour noodles, there’s no shortage of choice. Noodles can be crafted from everything from root vegetables to tapioca flour, mung bean starch, seaweed, and rice flour. They can be stretched, pulled, rolled, cut, and twisted. They show up in soups, salads, steaming broths, stir-fries, side dishes and as the star event. They can be silky soft, thick, and chewy, and fresh or dried.
Insofar as classifying pasta, La Familia Ristorante Italiano in Reno, Nevada clarifies: “Pasta can be categorized into roughly 350 different types of pasta broadly sorted into four categories:
- Long: Tagliatelle, linguine, angel hair, fettuccine, capellini, etc.
- Short: Cavatappi, conchiglie, festoni, farfalle, fusilli, gnocchi, etc.
- Soup: Anelli, ditali, orzo, etc.
- Stuffed: Cannelloni, angoletti, ravioli, tortellini, sacchetti, etc.
Some pasta shapes can be sorted into multiple categories, and variations in shapes and regional practices mean there’s a lot of overlap. Really, all of these pasta shapes exist because they elevate individual sauces and dishes with their unique textures.”
At this point, you’re either very confused or somewhat enlightened. Let me either clarify (or muddy things up) further: All noodles are pasta, but not all pasta is a noodle. In China alone, there are some 1,200 types of noodles. None (as far as I know) are referred to as a pasta. Noodles branched out from China across to Japan in the 9th century and then onto Korea in the 14th century before making it across the ocean.
As of 2023, there were 24,128 Chinese Restaurants businesses in the United States, an increase of 1.2% from 2022. In recent years there’s been a proliferation of Chinese restaurants across the fruited plain specializing in noodles. More than 1,400 of those specialize in ramen. Many of the noodle restaurants make their own noodles–an art form plied by skilled noodle chefs pulling and stretching the dough by hand to create incredibly thin and long strands. The process, known as “lamian” or “hand-pulled noodles,” requires years of practice and expert technique. Watching the process can be very entertaining.
In October, 2023, the ABC Noodle House & Seafood restaurant opened its doors at the former home of ABC Chinese Restaurant, a Duke City stalwart since 1988. From the outside only the signage has changed. It’s only when you enter the restaurant that you notice how significant the make-over really is. Few vestiges of ABC Chinese remain. The restaurant has morphed into something resembling a cross between a Chinese restaurant and a seafood emporium.
The real differences are found on the menu. While ABC Chinese served Cantonese cuisine (long the only type of Chinese food found in America), ABC Noodles lives up to its name. Noodle-based dishes a plenty festoon the menu. Where the menu diverges from other noodle restaurants is in offering Cajun seafood. You know the type. Cajun seafood restaurants typically serve such fare as Cajun seasoned shrimp, mussels, crab and crawfish served seafood boil style with potatoes and corn-on-the-cob. A number of restaurants in Albuquerque offer this experience, but only the ABC Noodle House gives you noodles and Cajun seafood.
It wasn’t noodles that caught our eye on the dumplings menu, but an appetizer called beef roll cake. This starter is not to be mistaken for Chinese cake noodles which have been boiled, drained then pan fried (while constantly being pressed down) to form a “noodle cake,” about half-an-inch thick. The beef roll cake more closely resembles an egg roll albeit with a thicker wrapping. It’s sliced into four pieces, each stuffed with sliced beef, cilantro, carrot and cucumber. The beef roll cake is served with a simple soy-based sauce. As much as I’ve whined about Chinese egg rolls, the beef roll cake is terrific.
Just a few years ago, soup dumplings could be found only at Budai Gourmet Chinese. Though still not widely available, you can find good soup dumplings at several of Albuquerque’s Chinese restaurants. ABC Noodles serves them in quantities of six. They’re presented to you in all-natural bamboo dumpling steamers. Each dumpling is stuffed with pork and broth. Even though you know it’s coming, that broth is a bit of a surprise. Alas, the dumplings are served rather warm (having been steamed) and you may have to wait before enjoying them. Don’t dip them into the accompanying sauce or its coolness and flavor will alter the delightful flavor of the soup.
My Kim, who’s never met a noodle she didn’t like found something to love in the pan-fried sliced noodle (choice of beef, pork, chicken, shrimp, vegetable or a combination thereof as well as onion, bean sprout, celery, napa cabbage, scallion, egg). This dish features broad, flat noodles (reminiscent of Italian pappardelle) and a light sweet-savory sauce. Quite naturally my Kim eschewed everything but the noodles and pork. Just as she doesn’t like vegetables on an Italian sub, she doesn’t like vegetables on Chinese dishes. It’s her uniqueness I love.
With cold weather putting me in the mood for something warm and piquant, I scoured the menu for the telltale chile icon. Fitting the bill were the tan tan noodles (mild spicy miso and beef broth soup topped with minced pork, bean sprouts, scallions, seasoned boiled eggs, peanuts). Tan tan ramen is quite different from other ramen styles (Shoyu ramen for example). The main difference comes down to the spice level. Tan tan ramen is typically a lot spicier than more traditional ramens thanks to fresh garlic, ginger, sesame and chiles. It’s a Japanese ramen noodle soup, based on Chinese Dan Dan Noodles. It wasn’t quite piquant for me. Thankfully chile oil was available on a condiment tray.
ABC Noodle House & Seafood is another terrific option for paramours of noodles and so much more.
ABC Noodle House & Seafood
8720 Menaul Blvd., N.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 292-8788
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LATEST VISIT: 4 February 2024
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$ – $$$
BEST BET: Pan-Fried Sliced Noodle with Beef, Soup Dumplings, Beef Roll Cake
REVIEW #1380