“Oklahoma,
Where the wind comes sweepin’ down the plain
And the wavin’ wheat
Can sure smell sweet
When the wind comes right behind the rain.”
~Oklahoma by Rodgers & Hammerstein
The setting for Rodgers and Hammerstein’s revolutionary 1943 Broadway hit Oklahoma showcased wide-open plains and rugged landscapes that painted both a literal and metaphorical canvas. The vastness of the territory mirrored the boundless dreams and limitless energy of its inhabitants. This award-winning musical depicted the ushering in of organized statehood, a challenging transition from mostly unsettled agrarian land. That transition parallels the characters’ personal journeys toward growth and self-discovery. Oklahoma became a timeless classic largely because of the stirring music, but also its celebration of love, community, and resilience among vibrant characters.
We weren’t expecting Shirley Jones belting out “Oh What a Beautiful Morning” when we crossed into the Sooner State’s sacred borders, nor did we expect John Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath or warring factions of cowboys and Indians. Frankly we didn’t know what to expect. You’ll forgive my ignorance of modern day Oklahoma. It was obviously stunted by my having watched the musical a few dozen times. My friend Steve Coleman, the prolific blogger who informs and entertains readers on Steve’s Food Blog, has often told me that Oklahoma City in particular has a number of excellent to outstanding Asian restaurants. As an aside, he also believes Oklahoma has the country’s most outstanding (albeit unheralded) burgers (such as Johnnie’s Grill in El Reno). Steve’s index of Oklahoma restaurants is replete with reviews of the Asian restaurants he’s visited.
Among the Vietnamese restaurants Steve wrote about is Pho Hien Loa in Oklahoma City. He praised the “freshness and flavor standard that make it a truly great pho restaurant.” He also waxed enthusiastic about the variety of soups (and not just pho) on the menu. Because we had neglected to make reservations on our first full day in Oklahoma City–Mother’s Day in which nearly every restaurant would be packed–we reasoned that perhaps a Vietnamese restaurant wouldn’t be as crowded as some of the other anointed eateries. To our delight, there were only a few families celebrating moms on their special day.
Some things have changed since Steve’s last visit. Among them is a number of restaurant robots that ferry bowls of pho and other culinary delights to eagerly awaiting diners. It’s a treat to see the robots navigate to each table, bypassing obstacles and navigating politely among other robots. If only New Mexican drivers would drive with such regard. Once those robots arrived at their appointed destinations, a server offloaded dishes onto their intended table. We could only assume the restaurant hoped to mitigate the risk of having diners spilling scalding hot dishes onto their laps. As for tipping protocol, we assume the robots don’t have much need for remuneration so tip the human servers only.
Perusing the menu was a delight. More than any Vietnamese restaurant in memory, Pho Lien Hoa offers a wide selection of smoothies in flavors we hadn’t seen at other restaurants. For my Kim, a cherry smoothie was in order. It was a bit too sweet for my taste, but she’s much sweeter than I am so it was just perfect for her. My choice, of course, was a durian smoothie. You probably think I’m a massochist for enjoying “the world’s stinkiest fruit” so much, but hey, I was Vietnamese in a previous life. Unlike some durian restaurants, this was not a misnamed vanilla smoothie. Durian certainly made its presence–and aroma–known.
Appetizers are pretty standard fare, about ten of the usual suspects. We would likely have enjoyed any of the ten but decided on something small so as not to fill up before our entrees arrive (a good approach considering just how generous Vietnamese entrees are plated). The fried egg rolls (2 pieces. Crispy fried egg rolls with ground pork, shrimp and carrots. Served with fish sauce and fresh lettuce) were filled to capacity. These cylindrical, golden-hued beauties were crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. The accompanying fish sauce was a bit more funky than some fish sauce we’ve had. The only minus was that there are only two egg rolls per order (some Vietnamese restaurants are more giving.)
Although Pho Lien Hoa offers a phalanx of pho and surfeit of soup items (including Bun Bo Hue, my very favorite), the description of Bo Kho (Vietnamese pot-roasted beef stew, fragrant with lemongrass, star anise and cinnamon with rice noodles) was impossible to resist. This enchanting elixir lived up to its description–and then some. You’ll luxuriate in the olfactory-pleasing aromas and lively flavors of the broth which paired the assertiveness of lemongrass with the delicate sweetness of star anise and cinnamon. Pot roast slices were generous. So were utterly wonderful pieces of fatty tripe. Either of the two noodle options-egg noodles and rice noodles–will work well with the broth (my choice was the egg noodles). In some ways the Bo Kho might remind you of caldo de res, the popular Mexican soup. At the risk of alienating Mexican readers, Bo Kho is even better.
For my Kim, visits to Vietnamese restaurants aren’t a quest to discover new and exciting entrees. It’s to compare vermicelli noodle bowls. Vermicelli noodle bowls have a Pavlonian effect on her. Her very favorite lists grilled marinated pork and crispy egg rolls as chief ingredients. Her current favorite vermicelli noodle bowl comes from Saigon City in Albuquerque though she may now have a new favorite. At Pho Lien Hoa, all vermicelli noodle bowls are also served with bean sprouts, cucumbers, carrots, lettuce, mint leaves and crushed peanuts with a side of fish sauce. The grilled marinated pork has a superb grilled flavor ameliorated with traditional spices and marinated in heaven. Seriously!
I suspect some people visit Pho Lien Hoa to see the robot servers in action. That’s a one-time event. The next time they visit, it’ll be for some of the very best Vietnamese food in the state.
Pho Lien Hoa
13120 N Pennsylvania Avenue
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
405) 849-6225
Website |
LATEST VISIT: 11 May 2025
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$
BEST BET:
REVIEW #1666
Hey Gil, I’m glad you made it to OKC and are giving publicity to some of the great dining choices that are available. Vietnamese restaurants have been locating in the suburban areas of OKC for some time but it is only recently that the menus have included dishes such as Bun Bo Hue. Between this and the dishes you ordered, I think you hit most of the high spots of Vietnamese cuisine that are available in American restaurants. Although many restaurants use the word “Pho” in their name these other dishes add much to the enjoyment of eating Vietnamese food. Despite all these choices my favorite is usually the vermicelli noodle dishes. The one Kim ordered looks especially good.
Congratulations to Pho Lien Hoa for bringing their very good Vietnamese food to the suburbs and giving more opportunity for this to become more mainstream without thinking it is only for the Asian District.
Thank you, Steve. You’ll be happy to hear that 405 Magazine readers have the same high opinion of Pho Lien Hoa we do. In the “Best of the 405” poll, readers named Pho Lien Hoa as the best Vietnamese restaurant in Oklahoma City. Several other OKC retaurants you write about also made the list.