My Kim and I regard ourselves as ambassadors for the great state of New Mexico, especially when we travel. We’re often asked where we’re from. Invariably we run into people whose perceptions about the Land of Enchantment are far from kind. Some actually believe Breaking Bad is a documentary about the condition of life in New Mexico where wild west lawlessness is rampant. If only perceptions of New Mexico were as gracious and kind as those of Oklahoma. Throughout our week-long sojourn in the Sooner State, state pride was palpable. You would expect that from locals, but some of the nicest things we heard about Oklahoma were from visitors like us. Most visitors were genuinely touched by just how nice veryone was. Some commented about not being cut off in traffic and not being greeted with a one-finger salute for some unforgiveable traffic transgressions (like not going 20 miles over the speed limit). Others spoke about the personable service they received at hotels and restaurants.
The niceness of Oklahomans didn’t really come as a surprise. Two of my very favorite people–my Air Force colleague John Holmes Bennett and fellow culinary scribener Steve Coleman–were raised in Oklahoma. You won’t find two nicer people anywhere. What did surprise me about Oklahomans is just how passionate they are about their state’s culinary scene. Steve will be happy to learn it isn’t just him. At every restaurant we visited, we encountered major league foodies, as savvy and knowledgeable about restaurants as anyone you can find. Steve has been telling me for years about the diversity of Oklahoma’s restaurant scene, particularly in the Asian food arena. He’s also extolled the state’s hamburger scene and surprisingly has even raved about the state’s Mexican food. I had no idea Steve’s zeal for Oklahoma’s restaurants was so widespread.
Three of the restaurants we planned on visiting are helmed by chefs nominated for or winners of James Beard Foundation honors. First on the list was Florence’s Restaurant, recipient of the Foundation’s Americas Classic award given to locally and independently owned restaurants with timeless appeal and beloved in their region for food. Next on our list was Ma Der, whose chef Jeff Chanchaleune was a finalist in both 2023 and 2024 for Best Chef: Southwest honors. Our third planned visit was to Birdies, a much-heralded Korean steakhouse owned and operated by 2025 James Beard Foundation Best Chef: Southwest semifinalist Kevin Lee. Interestingly, when we visited Ma Der, other diners asked if we planned to visit Birdies, too. Apparently great chefs and their restaurants get around.
Chef Kevin Lee does get around. Just ask the Food Network. The Norman, Oklahoma native is “a renowned chef and Food Network Champion, a curator of culinary excellence. He has competed on shows like “Beat Bobby Flay,” “Alex vs. America,” “Guy’s Grocery Games,” Superchef Grudge Match” and “Tournament of Champions.” You might think a gastronome like me would consume as much food TV as possible, but I find those shows so unrealistic that they border on ridiculous. Much like reality television shows, food competitions seem intended to help viewers escape the monotony of their own lives, but I rather like my monotomy. So, had we watched the Food Network’s programs in which Chef Lee participated, we probably still wouldn’t have a clue about his mastery of culinary techniques and ingredients. The fact that he was a Best Chef: Southwest semifinalist carries a lot more weight with us than any Food Network program. Moreover, Chef Lee was named “Best Chef” in 405 Magazine’s annual “best of” list for 2025.
When Chef Lee initially launched Birdies, it was as a Korean fried chicken restaurant (hence the name Birdies). The advent of 2024 heralded a change in concept. Birdies transitioned to a modern Korean steakhouse, the chef’s homage to traditional dishes of Korea made his way. It’s a concept that immediately resonated with diners–both locals and visitors. The Edmond restaurant was named one of Yelp’s “best new restaurants in the South” for 2024. As much as Oklahomans may love fried chicken, it seems they love steak, Korean style barbecue and other meat dishes even more. Is it any wonder Oklahoma is widely regarded (at least in Oklahoma) as the “stockyard capital of Oklahoma.”
Birdies is ensconced in a rather homogeneous strip mall on a heavily trafficked street in Edmond, just a few miles north of Oklahoma City. Birdies doesn’t look like much from the outside, but step inside and you’re enveloped by a swanky milieu with comfortable seating, good spacing and mood-enhancing atmospheric lighting. Service is (typically Oklahoma) friendly and on-the-spot. Our attentive server advised us to order three items to share–one from the small plates section and two from the large plates or steaks section. She told us most people follow this ordering pattern, much to their enjoyment.
Our very first small plate item was sweet potato burrata (candied sweet potatoes, sweet potato puree, pomegranite, sweet potato chips, Twisted Tree Bakery sourdough). This dish was a revelation as to just how talented Chef Lee is. It’s a true amalgam of flavors and textures that work very well together. Every element complemented the other. Contrasting items such as the pomegranate with its burst of sweetness followed by a subtle tartness and the sweet, earthy sweet potato puree were a marriage made in taste bud heaven. The lightly toasted sourdough proved a wonderful canvas upon which to pile on all other ingredients though we both saved some of the rich, creamy burrata to enjoy separately. This may have been our very favorite item on the Birdies menu.
Deciding what to order from among the steak choices was a challenge for my carnivorous bride. Would it be the galbi marinated Wagyu short rib (a Señor Plata favorite)? Perhaps it would be the Wagyu ribeye or maybe the prime filet. All steaks are served with a variety of lettuce wraps, chimichurri, garlic ginger soy sauce and peanut ssamhang. After much deliberation, my Kim decided on the fourteen-ounce prime strip which she asked be prepared at medium doneness. The prime strip, topped with sesame seeds, had a beautiful exterior char and was perfectly pink inside. It arrived sliced into strips which were easy to cut in half to enjoy as bite-sized pieces. Even though steak is not one of my favorite meals, this one was superb.
Although the steak required absolutely no amelioration, the three accompaying sauces–chimichurri, garlic ginger soy sauce and peanut ssamhang–were worthy of the steak. My favorite was the peanut ssamhang (commonly known as satay sauce). Most satay in Thai eateries includes this dipping sauce-marinade, but it’s usually not much more than sweetened peanut butter. Chef Lee’s version is not nearly as thick or as sweet. Instead it had wondrous spicy chili notes that appealed very much to me. Nearly as good was the garlic ginger soy sauce in which the ginger had a pleasant assertiveness.
Birdies offers a number of sides: tator tots, kimchii, steamed rice, honey-glazed carrots, buttered corn cheese. Knowing Chef Lee is well skilled in French culinary techniques and dishes, we opted for the honey-glazed carrots. Not everybody likes carrots as much as I do. Perhaps those with dissenting tastes have never had French-style honey-glazed carrots. They’re not quite carrot candy sweet, but the floral, caramel notes of the honey glaze bring out the carrots own mild sweetness. A generous serving of carrots sprinkled with sesame seeds was absolutely delicious. Maybe the carrots even helped my vision.
It’s always been my contention that scallops should never be prepared with piquant or sour elements though some restaurants continue this (mal)practice. It’s been my experience that scallops go best with complementary savory and slightly sweet ingredients. Chef Lee (who actually prepared our meal) conceived of a scallops dish that surprised me. It’s buttered cheese corn scallops (fresh scallops paired with a cheesy cream corn, bacon gremalata and beurre blanc) which come from the large plates menu. Four perfectly prepared scallops are the cynosure of a beautiful dish, but it’s the subtelty of other elements that really shines–the smokiness of the bacon gremalata, the velvety butteriness of the beurre blanc and the sweetness of the corn.
My Kim’s favorite dessert has become ice cream though she rarely deviates from vanilla and chocolate. For me, the more exotic the flavor the more I like it. So, it stands to reason I would love sweet potato ice cream (candied peanut base with sweet potato ice cream, topped with ube whipped cream and a cinnamon sugar Kwaja cracker). There’s only one thing wrong with this dessert. There just isn’t enough of it. I especially loved the chef’s use of ube, a purple Korean sweet potato, to create a light, frothy whipped cream. My Kim’s favorite eleent was the candied peanut base which provided textural contrasts we both loved.
Having dined at Chef Kevin Lee’s Korean Steakhouse still doesn’t mean we’ll watch him on the Food Network. We will, however, hope to return someday to enjoy even more of the brilliant chef’s Korean dishes.
Birdies by Chef Kevin Lee
2201 NW 150th St,
Edmond, Oklahoma
(405) 849-5180
Website |
LATEST VISIT: 14 May 2025
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$$$$
BEST BET: Sweet Potato Burrata, Buttered Cheese Corn Scallops, Prime Strip, Honey-Glazed Scallops, Sweet Potato Ice Cream
REVIEW #1668
Might I enquire what it is that accompanied the prime strip steak? Thanks in advance!
Accompanying the prime strip steak is a grilled half onion. As you know, Oklahoma knows what to do with onions.