“I think we love bacon because it has all the qualities of an amazing sensory experience.
When we cook it, the sizzling sound is so appetizing, the aroma is maddening,
the crunch of the texture is so gratifying and the taste delivers every time.”
With all due respect to the Iron Chef, we love bacon because we’re genetically disposed to love bacon! It’s in our DNA. We’re hard-wired to love bacon! In much the same way the brain releases endorphins when we enjoy intensely piquant New Mexico raised chile, bacon’s savory flavor elicits a highly addictive response on our neurochemicals. In a 2009 article, journalist-editor Arun Gupta of The Indypendent newspaper in New York, revealed that while bacon has eighteen ingredients, six of them are a type of umami, a Japanese term loosely translated to “deliciousness.” Foods with umami have a meaty, savory quality which renders them highly addictive.
At the risk of political incorrectness, we also love bacon because we got tired of being told how unhealthy it is. All those incessant harangues about bacon’s 60-percent fat content drove the rebels among us to scarf down rashers of bacon, a protest of sorts. Thanks to the anti-fat diet craze of the 1980s, bacon was priced ridiculously low. That backlash response coincided with the advent of the Adkins diet frenzy and diners becoming increasingly weary of the flavorless, fat-free, calorically-deprived fake bacon shoved down our throats. Enterprising restaurateurs caught wind of the increasing demand and haven’t looked back.
Those of us who can’t envision starting a day without bacon have our own version of the popular Six Degrees of Kevin Bacon game sans the “Kevin” part. In that version, the “bacon number” of an actor or actress is derived by the number of degrees of separation they have from actor Kevin Bacon. Yawn! In the Kevin-less version practiced by bacon aficionados, we attempt to find a food that wouldn’t be greatly improved by the simple addition of bacon. Burgers? You’ve got to be kidding. Adding bacon to burgers is one of the greatest culinary inventions of the 20th century. Hot dogs? Ditto! Pizza? Ever heard of Canadian bacon, a staple on many great pies? Tacos? Yep, bacon elevates the most pedestrian of tacos. Macaroni and cheese? Bacon should be mandatory! Pancakes? Bacon is a natural foil for the oft-cloying syrup! Hmm, maybe there’s nothing bacon can’t improve.
Some of you trying your hand at six degrees of bacon may have concluded I bet fudge wouldn’t be very good with a little bacon. You would be wrong. Noted gourmand and everyman philosopher Homer Simpson once noted “Mmmmm! Move over, eggs. Bacon just got a new best friend – fudge.” You can’t argue with such an unimpeachable source. The great folks who launched Bacon Jam in March, 2019 certainly wouldn’t. Their all-day breakfast and lunch diner doesn’t yet have a dish that pairs bacon with fudge, but it’s probably just a matter of time.
True to its name, Bacon Jam is a celebration of bacon-infused decadence, offering bacon in forms that might lead vegetarians and vegans into temptation. Bacon Jam thumbs its nose at all those health food obsessed one-percenters that would tell the rest of us we can’t enjoy the foods we love best. You’ll do a double-, maybe triple-take at some of the bacon blessed, calorically-endowed decadence on the menu. If you love bacon for breakfast, you’ll be thrilled to find bacon batter pancakes, maple bacon fried French toast, bacon and waffles, bacon omelets, biscuits and eggs and a fatty phalanx of bacon-bearing bounty.
The lunch menu is just as decadent, starting with an appetizer called “The Defibrillator,” two pieces of bacon rolled in a bacon batter and deep-fried. If that’s not enough bacon for you, ask for bacon jam gravy on the side. Other bacon dishes on the lunch menu include a Double BLT, triple cheese and bacon grilled cheese and a bacon chili (SIC) cheeseburger. For those of you less inclined to have fun, Bacon Jam offers a “build your own salad” option that starts with a bed of lettuce, tomato and onion and a wealth of optional toppings such as bacon, ham, pastrami, roast beef and several cheeses.
It probably won’t surprise you to learn that what brought my friend Bruce “Sr Plata” Silver and I to Bacon Jam is a chicken fried steak plate called “The Widow Maker.” For a pauper’s price of a buck south of ten dollars, the Widow maker includes a chicken fried steak, two eggs prepared any way you want them, papas and two silver dollar pancakes. If you’re wondering where the bacon is, it’s on the gravy, a rich pepper gravy with lots of bacon crumbles on top. This dish is not for the faint of heart–literally. The hefty chicken fried steak is tender, well-seasoned and delicious, elevated to sheer pleasurable decadence by gravy which should come with an angioplasty on the side.
It takes a very strong, very resolute, iron-clad man to resist the lure of bacon. I know of only one person with convictions that implacable–Sr. Plata. Of course, it helps that he’s able to enjoy his beloved chicken fried steak with red and green chile. Even without the magical properties of bacon, both the red and green chile are terrific, imbued with the qualities all New Mexicans value: great flavor and a nice piquancy. The green chile, in particular, bites back. Sr. Plata loves pancakes nearly as much as he loves chicken fried steak. It almost pained us that the silver dollar pancakes weren’t full-sized, but neither of us really wants to make widows of our brides.
Bacon Jam is located in the space which previously housed Mick’s Chile Fix. It’s everything you look for in an independent mom-and-pop restaurant (unless you’re into more healthy dietary pursuits). The proprietors are friendly, accommodating and eager to please. It’s obvious Bacon Jam isn’t their first restaurant. In addition to owning the Weinerschnitzel in Española, they’re partners in a Vietnamese venture called Pho 505. That’s got me thinking about how bacon would improve even the incomparably delicious flavor of pho.
2930 Candelaria, N.E.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
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LATEST VISIT: 5 April 2019
# OF VISITS: 1
BEST BET: The Widow Maker (Chicken Fried Steak, Two Eggs, Papas and Two Silver Dollar Pancakes)