According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, grocery prices have vaulted up 29% since February 2020. Indeed, an Associated Press survey conducted in 2025 revealed that “the cost of groceries has become a major source of stress for just over half of all Americans — outpacing rent, health care and student debt.” Very, very few grocery items have proven themselves inflation-proof. Among those rare items is Costco’s rotisserie chicken which has remained the same price for years. That consistently low price is a major reason Costco sells more than 100-million ready-to-eat chickens each year.
The obvious question when you peruse the menu at Rotiseria Y Taqueria Alcantara is “can a rotisserie chicken at a hole-in-the-wall restaurant possibly be six times as good as a Costco chicken?.” Do the math. “Six times” is just about how much more a whole rotisserie chicken at this Mexican restaurant on Isleta costs. For the $28, you’ll pay for one chicken, you can actually buy almost six rotisserie chickens at Costco. You’re probably wondering if the $28 rotisserie chicken is gilded in golden plumage. Or perhaps, you’re pondering whether that chicken was pampered with a carefully managed diet of nutrient-rich grains like kobi beef cattle eat.
How much diners are willing to pay for an excellent meal isn’t necessarily an indicator of wealth. If that was the case, our diets would be mostly of the “cheap eats” variety. Paying for an excellent meal may be a bit of an indulgence, but most savvy gastronomes are happy to do so when cost equals quality. In my case, paying a bit (or a lot) more is me being a dutiful husband. My Kim loves rotisserie chicken though for me it’s often a salt bomb. For many of us, a rotisserie chicken from Rotiseria Y Taqueria Alcantare is not only somewhat more expensive than we’d normally pay, it’s a bit of a distance.
Rotiseria Y Taqueria Alcantare (henceforth Alcantare) is located on Isleta Blvd which means driving through Avenida Cesar Chavez or Rio Bravo, both of whom seem to be under perpetual maintenance. If you’re hungry, the ubiquitous orange cones can be frustrating. Alcantare is located in a small, nondescript strip mall. The restaurant is absolutely immaculate. “Alcantare” is the family name. It’s not a very common name even in Mexico from where the family migrated. Before learning of the name from sweet Veronica, our hostess and server, I assumed the name Alcantare had its roots in singing. Conjugate the Spanish term (cantando) for singing and it would seem to make sense.
Though Alcantare doesn’t have anything to do with singing, we found it ironic that a lone guitar is positioned just in front of the counter. Guests are invited to play that guitar. Veronica told us some guests have real musical talent and have been know to regale other guests with mellifluous song. Other than The Dude, our debonair dachshund, the restaurant was devoid of singing talent save for the Alejandro Fernandezalbum. Because we arrived at 3PM, only one other table was occupied.
The Alcantare family is originally from Mexico City where they owned and operated a rotisserie. Veronica, a very outgoing and genial young lady was first to greet us. Her mother–also named Veronica–came in later. We learned that a third woman named Veronica was at work in the kitchen. Rapscallion that I am, I introduced myself as Veronica and told our hosts that The Dude’s name was also Veronica. It was good-natured fun. The family restaurant has been open some eighteen months (as of this writing in September, 2025).
Alcantare is not solely about rotisserie chicken. Far from it. The menu is replete with Mexican food favorites. Rotisserie chicken is available in whole and half portions with two sides or one respectively. Tacos with all your preferred proteins–al pastor (marinated pork), carne asada (steak), longoniza (spicy sausage), pollo (chicken) and campechano (mixed meat)–are available in quantity (the menu lists 25 tacos for $55). These proteins may also be used to construct a behemoth burrito or titanic torta. Breakfast is served all day long, featuring such waker-upper delights as chilaquiles, huevos rancheros and enfrijoladas. Flautas, sopes, quesadillas and much more are also available.
It was a given that my bride would order the rotisserie chicken. The question was “half or whole.” Not being quite the voracious eater that her husband is, she opted for the latter, a half chicken with one side. Sides include beans, rice, fries, grilled onions, grilled potatoes or salad. Her choice was grilled onions which she seems to prefer to steak when she orders fajitas. Glistening, pearlescent onions literally covered the entire half chicken which itself was gleaming with juices. You’re undoubtedly wondering if this chicken was really so much better than Costco’s bird that we were happy to pay the price. For us, the answer, is a resounding “yes.” This rotisserie chicken was superb! Every morsel of tender chicken was moist with a marinade or rub that penetrated all the way through. There was a lot of chicken on the bone, so much so that my Kim couldn’t finish it. Predictably, the grilled onions were a perfect accompaniment.
Long have I proclaimed my love for tortas, the popular Mexican sandwich served on a soft, split roll such as a telera or bolillo. It’s no secret that I much prefer a torta to a taco or burrito. Tortas are among my very favorite sandwiches, particularly when a telera split roll is stuffed generously with ingredients. Alcantare obtains its soft, light and addictive telera bread from Mexico Lindo, a vibrant neighborhood store specializing in authentic Mexican products (and reputedly some of the best empanadas in town). Only at No Te Rajes, my very favorite food truck in New Mexico, have we enjoyed a comparable telera bread. My torta of choice was torta de salchicha. Though salchicha translates from Spanish to “sausage,” this sandwich was made with wienies, the type of which you’ll find on a Mexican hot dog (which are far superior to their American counterpart). Also on the torta were tomatoes, lettuce, avocados and cheese. This was an outstanding sandwich, brimming with flavor and fresh, high-quality ingredients. Although the French fries served with the sandwich weren’t quite worthy, three salsas were definitely top shelf. My favorite was an avocado-Serrano chile salsa, but the chile de arbol salsa was also magnificent.
Three desserts–fresas con crema, flan and arroz con leche–are on the menu. In honor of my mom’s wonderful strawberry garden, fresas are a favorite dessert of mine. Fresh, luscious macerated strawberries are topped with Mexican sour cream and sprinkled lightly with sugar. Few things in life are as wonderful. My Kim, who often eschews desserts if they’re not ice cream, polished off nearly half of a dessert I had hoped she wouldn’t like much. My mom would have loved this fabulous dessert.
You’ve got my verdict! Not only is Rotiseria Y Taqueria Alcantara a wonderful eatery, the rotisserie chicken is worth the cost. You might never want another Costco bird again.
Rotiseria Y Taqueria Alcantara
2715 Isleta Blvd., S.W., Suite B
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 537-1366
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LATEST VISIT: 18 September 2025
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$
BEST BET: Fresas Con Crema, Torta de Salchicha, Half Chicken With Grilled Onions, Aguas Frescas, Horchata
REVIEW #1489