I’ve been called many things, not all of them kind, but the name I’m most proud to hold is “Gil.” It was my father’s name. When colleagues from Intel’s manufacturing plant in Israel met me for the first time, they asked if I was Jewish. Apparently in Hebrew, “Gil” means “joy,” “happiness,” or “gladness.” The name “Gil” is associated with celebration and optimism. Gil can also be used a verb, with forms like gili (my joy) or related words meaning to “rejoice” or “be glad.” The feminine version of Gil is “Gila.” In my travels over 39 years on this planet, I’ve met several people named Gil, but until November, 2025 had never met anyone named Gila. That is, until my visit to the Manhattan Avenue Deli in Santa Fe.
A very vivacious young lady named Julia greeted and chatted me up as I walked into the Deli. Not surprsingly, she asked if I was Jewish. Julia regaled me with tales of her experiences in Israel, sharing that during her time in the Holy Land, she acquired the name “Gila.” The name certainly fits. Julia…er, Gila is one of the most genuinely effusive and optimistic people I’ve ever met. Sporting a sparkling smile, Gila is a superb ambassador for the Deli. Her kindness and joy (fittingly) are contagious. She greeted everyone who walked into the Deli with the same friendliness she extended to me. Did I mention kindness and joy are contagious? I also met Esther, wife of Deli’s manager Rabbi Shmuel Itkin and their infant son Mendel. They, too, were as welcoming and joyful as can be.
Though each dining experience brings with it an inherent joy (Gil), I hadn’t expected to be surrounded by so much extrinsic joy. It certainly heightened my enjoyment of the experience. While pastrami alone is reason enough for joy and celebration, the Manhattan Avenue Deli offers so much more. It offers genuine hospitality you don’t find in many Santa Fe restaurants. Hospitality, as my dear friends (and Sephardic Jews) The Plata Brothers: Bruce and Loren Silver have shown me over the years, is a Jewish tradition . That hospitality is sure to make the Manhattan Avenue Deli a cultural and spiritual hub for Santa Fe’s Jewish community and a dining destination for those of us who pine for great pastrami.
I first learned of the Manhattan Avenue Deli from my friends at the Mañana Cafe podcast. Prolific podcasters Tom Neiman and Jim Tritten took their cohorts from the VA Creative Writing Group to the Manhattan Avenue Deli for pastrami (or at least that’s what they all ordered). Their verdict: “the state’s best pastrami.” Gila told me the pastrami is flown in from New York City. It may be a bit pricy for some, but she assured me, the Deli probably just breaks even because of the high cost of having the pastrami shipped in. Frankly, it’s not expensive compared to culinary fare at other Santa Fe eateries.
Even though Google’s AI engine declares there is no “Manhattan Avenue” in Santa Fe, your vehicle’s GPS should be able to ferry you there. The Deli, a showcase of New York-style kosher deli classics, is a short walk from the Rail Runner Santa Fe Depo. The deli offers a selection of classic Jewish deli foods such as the aforementioned hot pastrami on rye, a kosher! Reuben sandwich (with Russian dressing), matzah-ball soup, latkes, knishes and a NYC Bagels n’ Lox (featuring non-dairy cream cheese). If you’re not sure what to order, ask Gila or Esther for their recommendations. Gila assured me that Chef Aron Moskowitz prepares all meals from scratch, making sure to honor his Ashkenasi Jewish ancestry, and the methods passed down from his mother and grandmother.
Chicken soup has been affectionately known as “Jewish penicillin” since the 12th Century. It’s thought of as a cure-all for various ailments. Having nursed a bad cold for several days, the Deli’s chicken matzoh ball soup was just what the doctor ordered. Besides, Gila told me it was wonderful. Wonderful indeed. A heart-warming and salubrious broth and two golf ball-sized matzoh balls (dumplings made from ground matzo crackers (matzo meal), eggs, and a fat such as schmaltz (rendered chicken fat) arrived at my table piping hot. The light and fluffy floaters were delicious. When I sent a photo of the soup to the Plata Brothers, Loren asked if I had the matzoh balls with ketchup. Gila and Esther shared my laughter at that joke.
In the Santa Fe Reporter’s review of the Manhattan Avenue Deli, “the Fork’s” writer Alex De Vore wrote “While the pastrami was indeed thin sliced and bursting with the subtly salty/spicy kick you want from the most sensuous of all the salted, cured meats, we have to admit our disappointment at the size of the sandwich itself. For $18, we kind of expected a mountainous beast of a sandwich to rival the likes of Canters or Katz’s, but this was not to be.” The Mañana Cafe dudes recommend ordering the extra stuffed pastrami sandwich (hot pastrami on toasted rye bread with deli mustard), a $28 indulgence served with coleslaw and pickle spears. If you love pastrami, you’ll want it extra stuffed (ongeshtupped in Yiddish). The pastrami is sliced into thin shards of lean (like former New York City Mayor Ed Koch, I prefer fatty pastrami) brined, smoked and seasoned pastrami on a light rye that almost seems overwhelmed by the meat. The deli mustard imparted zesty and spicy notes that go well together. Nothing goes as well with hot pastrami sandwiches as Dr. Brown’s root beer, one of several regular and diet Dr. Brown’s beverages available.
For years, my favorite apple strudel has come from the incomparable Dagmar’s Specialties in Rio Rancho. At the Manhattan Avenue Deli, I found apple strudel every bit as good as my long-time favorite. A buttery, flaky crust made from unleavened dough envelops a light sheathe of crisp, sweet apples. Every bite is a delightful adventure in gustatory enjoyment. If pastrami is the most sensual of all salted, cured meats and matzoh ball soup is Jewish penicillin, apple strudel is the irresistible way to end a kosher meal.
Before the Manhattan Avenue Deli launched in December, 2024, the closest kosher eatery was nearly 400 miles away in Denver. Whether “goy” (the most common Yiddish term for a non-Jewish person) or Jewish, there are many reasons to visit this delightful and joyful eatery.
Manhattan Avenue Deli
230 W Manhattan Avenue
Santa Fe, New Mexico
(505) 448-0400
Website | Facebook Page
LATEST VISIT: 16 November 2025
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: N/R
COST: $$ – $$$
BEST BET: Extra Stuffed Pastrami, Apple Strudel, Matzoh Ball Soup, Dr. Brown
REVIEW #1496
Hi Gil. Do you happen to know of any Albuquerque (and environs) restaurants open on Thanksgiving and serving traditional fare?
Hello Dave
I haven’t compiled such a list, but Instagram sensation Alex Nicolette published a list on her Instagram page. You can see it here.
Happy Thanksgiving. I hope wherever you choose to dine that your day and meal are very blessed.
Gil
Thank you so much! An interesting list, although it seems that the mom ‘n’pops are rightly serving dinner at home. So, looks like it’s Mimi’s Cafe!
Warm Thanksgiving wishes for you as well.
Hi Gil,
Alex De Vore consistently denies he is The Fork. Do you know something we don’t know?
Oops. You know what the proverbial “they” say about assuming.
Hola, Gil or should I say Mr Joy, Nice article on your pastrami adventure in Santa Fe and visiting the Chabad house, as close to orthodoxy as one can get. Growing up on the west coast in the City of Angeles, I find subtle differences of NY and Los Angeles delis. I remember ‘Juniors’ in West Los Angeles or where my Father (Hebrew named Mendel) loved in Beverly Hills ‘Nate & Al’s’ or even ‘Cantor’s’ on Fairfax where the Pastrami & Turkey sandwiches seemed a mile high and delicious…and as as with Santa Fe, not cheap. In fact all deli’s seem quite pricy. How was it without the Swiss? If Kosher you won’t find that combination and the Rabbi/chef would have a frown. Now for the Matzoh Ball soup, it can be amazing. It all depends on who makes it and what else is in it. I didn’t know Lorenzo enjoyed soup with ketchup. Our Father liked a majority of foods with ketchup but Matzoh Ball soup wasn’t one of them. Now, golf ball sizes are ok if they taste delicious with the soup but I have to say our Mother made the most amazing gigantic fluffy matzoh balls (of course I had to have 1 more) of all time, quite an accomplishment! We now live in Arizona. Maybe Gil can help us find amazing delis here. Please share comments as I don’t get them using my ancient Apple Phone…Thx Gil for all your treks thru the country helping us feed ourselves with comfort and delicious foods!!
Thank you, my friend. I couldn’t help but think of you and Loren during my visit to the Manhattan Avenue Deli. The Plata Brothers have not only been true friends, you’ve been brothers in dining. It’s likely Loren was trying to pull a fast one on me with the ketchup on matzoh ball soup remark. At any regard, his joke was much appreciated by the great staff.
I didn’t even miss Swiss cheese (is there such a thing as kosher Swiss cheese?).
I’ve got a number of delis in mind to visit in the Phoenix area. Most of them are Italian delis, but surely there’s got to be great pastami in the Valley of the Sun.
There’s got be at least one nice deli in GILbert, AZ 😊
With a joyful name like Gilbert, you would certainly think so.
Señor Gil, I am surprised you did not include a Hava Nagila reference in the first paragraph.
Danken dir mensch Pedro. I couldn’t figure out how to incorporate Hava Nagila into the review. Maybe next time.
I could forgo marble rye from Schnitzer’s, but I will not settle for a lesser babka.
Look to the cookie, Pedro, look to the cookie.