Maisen Katsu – Mesa, Arizona

Humanity has long had an fondness for breaded meats.  As far back as the 12th Century, breaded meat cuts appear in Milanese archives.  Recipes bespeak of medieval innovations in coating meat to “seal in juices or mimic gilded dishes.”  By the 19th Century, Austrian and Italian kitchens–utilizing flour, eggs, and white breadcrumbs before frying in butter or lard-began propagating techniques and ingredients.  Among the foundational breaded dishes were Austrian Wiener Schnitzel. Today, whether it’s German schnitzel, Mexican milanesa, or Italian parmigiana, many of the world’s culinary traditions incorporate a dish made of thinly cut meat that is breaded and then fried to yield a contrast between a crunchy crust on the outside and tender meat on the inside.  Home cooking across the fruited helped give rise to regional variations in breaded meats with such standards as Texas chicken-fried steak and the Midwestern breaded pork tenderloin sandwich. In the 19th Century, Western influences were increasingly adopted even in the Land of the Rising Sun. Among the innovations were katsu, a Japanese dish of meat or seafood that is breaded in flaked panko crumbs and deep-fried. Instead of fine, dense western breadcrumbs, katsu involves meats breaded in light, airy Japanese panko breadcrumbs…

Ichiban – Albuquerque, New Mexico

In an episode of Friends, Joey Tribbiani starred in a commercial released only in Japan for Ichiban men’s lipstick. His friend Chandler’s response upon viewing the commercial: “he really is a chameleon.” In Japanese, the word “ichiban” means “number one” or “the best” and can be used either as a superlative (as in the highest of quality or the very best choice) or to denote precedence or numerical order. The fictional Chinese-American detective Charlie Chan, for example, called his eldest son “number one son.” Whether meaning to denote the highest quality or precedence (ranking) among other restaurants, any dining establishment calling itself “number one” is making a pretty audacious claim.  That may be especially true if that claim is made about a sushi restaurant. Even in a landlocked market like Albuquerque where fresh seafood isn’t walked off the dock and onto a restaurant’s kitchen, there are enough “passable” or better sushi restaurants that it is disputable as to which is really number one. After several visits to Ichiban Japanese Restaurant since its launch in the millennium year (2000), it became increasingly clear that the “number one” designation is business name.  In our experience Ichiban has suffered from inconsistency over the…

Tokyo Bangkok – Albuquerque, New Mexico

In 2019, Mastercard published its Global Destination Cities Index which ranked 200 cities around the world with the most international visitors.  Topping the list for the fourth consecutive year was Bangkok, Thailand which boasted of 22-million overnight visitors.  Next on the list with around 19-million international overnight visitors were Paris and London respectively.  With 13.6-million visitors, New York City was the only United States destination to make the top ten, ranking seventh.  Tokyo (12.93-visitors) was ninth on the list. Many years ago when I was a fledgling airman in the world’s greatest Air Force I had the privilege of serving with grizzled veterans who had been stationed in Southeast Asia during the long and drawn-out Vietnam War.  Almost invariably they spoke about the camaraderie and esprit de corps they shared with their brothers-in-arms.  Though they bemoaned having arrived as boys and forever losing their youth during the ravages of war, they lit up when talking about  Thailand with its exotic aura, welcoming lifestyle and (maybe especially) women they found mesmirizing.  They regaled me with tales of nightlife in Bangkok where they lost themselves momentarily in revelry. During my Air Force career (especially as a single man) my “dream sheet” (what…