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Viet Taste – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Viet Taste where you eat with your five senses

Viet Taste where you eat with your five senses

In the “gobble and go” pace of contemporary American life, it’s sometimes difficult to remember what you ate during your last meal, much less recall the sensory experience of that meal.

When that happens to true gourmands, they will actively seek a memorable dining experience in which all five senses are invoked. One of the best restaurants in Albuquerque in which to have such a sensory experience is Viet Taste which opened on April 4, 2007.

Even more than most Vietnamese restaurants, Viet Taste exemplifies comprehensive eating, the most sublime form of Vietnamese cooking and eating. This style of eating involves all five senses.

In comprehensive eating, you eat with your eyes first. It’s important that all dishes be attractively presented with a diversity of colors and forms. Plating is almost an art form and Vietnamese wait staffs have a penchant for eye-pleasing arrangements. Everything on your plate is where it should be for optimum harmony and appearance. The balance of color, texture and appearance should give diners pause to reflect on how great everything looks.

The bamboo accented dining room

The bamboo accented dining room

The nose follows. Each dish must arouse the olfactory senses with a balance of pleasant odors: fish or meat, vegetables and a sauce. With dishes such as grilled pork, the alluring aroma of smoke permeates the pork as fat drips onto the flames.

While chewing, diners should be attentive to the texture of the ingredients and feel the softness of the noodles. Al dente herbs, bean sprouts, nuts, carrots and peanuts provide crispness to a meal and allow diners to hear their crunchiness.

Finally, there’s the sensation of taste which it might be argued, you can’t experience at all if you subscribe to the American gobble and go dining lifestyle.

Each dish must have its own distinct signature and it must be easy for the diner to discern the differences in taste in dishes that may have a similarity in flavors, but have their own subtle properties.

A dish will often have all of the five flavors–salty, sweet, hot, bitter and sour–but with balance. None should dominate.

Stuffed grape leafs

Stuffed grape leafs

As a practitioner of the comprehensive style of cooking, Viet Taste may have no equal in Albuquerque. It may also be unequaled for ambience with a decidedly upscale look and feel that seems to incorporate many elements of feng shui.

Bamboo accents are prevalent as is contemporary art, much of it black and white photography which incorporates light and shadow to frame subject matter in emotion stirring ways. Some of the walls are the color of an avocado shake while others are nearly a charcoal grey color. Lighting is subtle.

If the ambience seems familiar, you’ve probably dined at Viet Rice in Rio Rancho. Like its Rio Rancho sibling, Viet Taste was founded by Huong Thi Pham who has deep roots in the community. His brother is the owner of Que Huong, a long-time Vietnamese restaurant on Central Avenue.

While there are similarities between Viet Rice and Viet Taste, the newer sibling has a much larger (should I say, more comprehensive) menu. It’s the type of menu you peruse through slowly, studying all your dining options even though you know that whatever you have will likely be terrific.

A great way to start is with an appetizer of grilled beef wrapped in grape leaf. Grape leaf is typically associated with Greek food, but it is also quite prevalent (although not in Albuquerque) in Vietnamese food as well. Entirely different than Greek dolmades, Viet Taste’s version features anise, lemon grass and cinnamon blessed grilled beef encased is a small, tightly wrapped, cigar shaped grape leaf and served with Nuoc Mam, the incomparable fish sauce. Five pieces to an order might inspire rapacious drooling.

Banh Mi Thit Nuong

Banh Mi Thit Nuong

The stuffed grape leaf is presented on a lovely bed of assorted vegetables, all crispy and fresh. They make a fine salad with a dressing of Nuoc Mam.

A little bit about Viet Taste’s Nuoc Mam–it is some of the very best in Albuquerque, so good you might want to drink it, so precious you won’t spill a drop. It is pungent, sour, savory and fruity all at once.

Another appetizer option is Banh Mi, known in some American circles as a Vietnamese sandwich. Viet Taste offers several sandwich options: grilled pork, chicken or beef as well as meatballs and even a beef stew sandwich.

Each sandwich is served on a toasted baguette, a bread first introduced by the French when they colonized Vietnam as a part of French Indochina.

crispy noodles with beef and vegetables.

crispy noodles with beef and vegetables.

The menu has a wide selection of pho (beef noodle soup) as well as rice noodle, egg noodle and Udon style noodle soups. There may be nothing in the world as comforting and sustaining as a bowl of steaming hot soup and at Viet Taste, each bowl is roughly the size of a small swimming pool.

Noodles are plentiful in Vietnam and on Viet Taste’s menu. Most start off dry, but are reconstituted with hot water for use in soups or stir-fried dishes. Some noodles are translucent, some are broad and some are thin. It will take some practice before you can discern the sometimes subtle differences in noodle styles.

You can even have crispy egg noodles with your choice of seafood, beef, pork or chicken and vegetables. While they may start off as a nest of dry noodles, the addition of vegetables, meat and sauce quickly reconstitute them into soft noodles that slide into your mouth.

An avowed aficionado of noodles, the most endearing to both my palate and soul, might just be Vietnamese style vermicelli-style noodles. Vermicelli is actually an Italian word for a very fine round noodle and the word literally means “small worms.”

Vermicelli with spicy lemongrass and pork

Vermicelli noodles are thinner than spaghetti and are a staple in Vietnam. Perhaps the best way to eat vermicelli is as a noodle bowl, called bun in Vietnam.

Traditionally these thin noodles are served at room temperature or slightly warm with warm toppings (such as anise blessed pork or beef) and cool garnishes such as daikon, shallots, crushed peanuts and lettuce.

One of the very best bun dishes in Albuquerque is Viet Taste’s noodle bowl with spicy lemongrass and grilled pork. It’s one of the few menu items designated on the menu as spicy and it derives that heat element from about half a spoonful of Sriracha sauce.

More than most Vietnamese dishes which come to mind, this dish also embodies comprehensive eating in every way. The aroma of grilled pork is as if prepared outdoors in a small hibachi with fat dripping from the pork and sizzling into a smoky haze which permeates the meat.

Beverage options include cool, refreshing shakes: avocado, coconut, soursop, jackfruit, durian, strawberry, mango and pineapple.

Picture perfect plating, contrasting textures, invigorating aromas, and delicate, light, yet complex flavors–this is what your five senses will experience with a meal at Viet Taste, already one of Albuquerque’s very best Vietnamese restaurants in a city which has several great ones.
Viet Taste
5721 Menaul Blvd, N.E.
Albuquerque, NM
888-0101
LATEST VISIT: 7 July 2007
# OF VISITS: 1
RATING: *
COST: $$
BEST BET: Grilled Beef Wrap Grape Leaf, Spicy Lemongrass With Pork Noodle Bowl, Crispy Egg Noodle Stir Fried Combination

Viet Taste on Urbanspoon

  • D. Minjock says:

    We love Viet Taste! We have been there many, many times, and are never disappointed.
    The chicken soup with rice noodles has the most exquisite broth. The rice bowl selections are huge and delicious. This place seems to have a steady following, and I recommend it to anyone who wants to try the wonders of Vietnamese food.

    July 17, 2010 at 7:39 PM
  • Jim Millington says:

    I have previously stated on this site that there must be a bad Vietnamese restaurant somewhere on this wide earth but I had never found it. Viet Taste is not bad but it is as close to it as I have ever seen. Child Bride, Rosanna Rosannadana and I went last night because we had taken the “Italian Lady” to my beloved Kim Long a couple of weeks ago and she assured us that Viet Taste was much better. We have a BIG difference of opinion which is not a mortal sin. The place was crowded which is a good sign for Vietnamese places but suspiciously devoid of Asian faces which is a bad sign (I keep forgetting that the woman I was with has an Asian face as I am just too used to her).
    Good Things:
    1. It is a nice looking place when you get in the door.
    2. Service is very good. In fact, one of my favorite waiters (from Huong Thao where he started immediately after immigrating) had moved here.
    3. Rosanna Rosannadana liked her fried rice which looked very ordinary to me. She also loved her egg rolls which were so dry and overcooked that they could actually degrade the reputation of egg rolls.
    4. The Grilled Beef Wrap Grape Leafs were very good.

    Bad Things-obviously my opinion only:
    1. I ordered the Spicy Lemongrass With Pork Noodle Bowl. There was not a hint of any spice until I dumped Sriracha sauce in it. I could see some green flecks but no taste hint that this was lemongrass. The noodles appeared to have been cooked in a saturated sugar solution and were overcooked mush. The pork in the dish was excellent. When I order spicy lemongrass noodles at Huong Thao it will burn my socks off, not be bland and flavorless.
    2. My bride ordered a rice noodle with chicken. She does not share my enthusiasm for high heat dishes but pronounced it bland, flavorless and sickeningly sweet.

    April 7, 2012 at 11:38 AM
  • Morgain says:

    I have to agree with Mr. Millington on this one. Viet Taste is my least favourite of the Vietnamese restaurants I’ve tried in Albuquerque. The venue was clean, and the staff friendly. The food, however, just wasn’t tasty enough for me to go back again. The bahn mi was on the chintzy side, as far as filling, and had very little flavour. I also ordered the noodle bowl with lemongrass pork, and found that it had very little lemongrass flavour, and was overpoweringly sweet. The folks at Viet Taste give it a good try, but the food simply falls short.

    April 7, 2012 at 2:16 PM

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