Category: Italian

AlbuquerqueClosed in 2008Gone But Not ForgottenItalian

Cafe Milano – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno3:58 AM

My original introduction to this review became yet another vitriolic rage against corporate chains, a passionate spiel I added to my ratings page. What prompted that diatribe was our discovery of Cafe Milano (formerly Rosa’s Italian Kitchen), yet another wonderful mom and pop restaurant competing for hungry diners with middling chains who deign to offer food which can’t grace their mediocre menus unless it goes through rigorous usability testing (can you say human lab rats). There I go again–railing against chains when I should be on the rooftop singing the praises of Cafe Milano, a “breath of fresh air” Italian restaurant in a city polluted with the likes of Zio’s and Bucca Di Beppo. Affable proprietors Rick and Rosa Matthews and their wonderful restaurant are the antithesis of the chain restaurants and their artificially sweetened hospitality. With good reason to be very proud of their inaugural restaurant venture, the Matthews greet all patrons with a genuine warmth you can’t fabricate. Being convivial is great, but what will bring us back is the great food–reasonably priced victuals in family sized portions. The toasted ravioli appetizer–lightly breaded ravioli deep fried and served with a tangy, tomato rich marinara sauce–won us over quickly.…

IllinoisItalianRating: N/R (Not Rated)United States

Graziano’s Brick Oven Pizza – Niles, Illinois

Gil Garduno2:15 PM

Italian beef, barbecue ribs, deep dish pizza–these delectable delights don’t come close to fully defining the Windy City’s culinary scene, but they are the foods most often associated with with America’s most populous lakeside epicurean hotbed–and rightfully so. When it comes to that tasty triumvirate, no American city does it better. It takes an excellent product to compete when prospective diners are savvy and sophisticated as is my brother-in-law Tim who introduced me to this great pizzeria. Graziano’s Brick Oven Pizza is certainly no pretender, featuring honest-to-goodness food that can be categorized only as “terrific” or any synonym thereof. A casual ambience, tables in close proximity to one another, movie posters and a cacophonous din of rushed wait staff and hungry patrons give this suburban restaurant all the atmosphere it needs. Wonderful food gives it returning patrons. Before you even order, a basket of fresh focaccia bread is placed on your table but you’re left to your own devices as to mixing the olive oil and spice mixture in which to dunk that bread. My concoctions weren’t too bad, but not of the professional quality a trained expert might have crafted. Fortunately, we didn’t have to prepare our own meals.…

IllinoisPizzaRating: Very GoodUnited States

Gino’s East of Chicago – Lake Zurich, Illinois

Gil Garduno2:10 PM

Ostensibly no one knows more about a city’s best dining destinations than the taxi drivers who ferry famished fares there…or at least, that’s the theory. The original Gino’s East was founded in 1966 by taxi drivers who lured away the pizza chef at Chicago’s Pizzeria Uno and started their own pizzeria. Gino’s East now relies on those taxi drivers for those precious and essential word of mouth referrals when passengers inquire as to the best pizzeria in a city of outstanding pizzerias. Once a year, the original Gino’s East rewards cabbies for those referrals by giving them a free personal pan pizza. That’s just a little bit of marketing genius, but in a blue collar city, slick marketing isn’t good enough; you’ve also got to make a blue collar pizza–a thick, hearty pizza with a generous application of traditional ingredients. The fru-fru pizzas they serve in California with their line-up of sushi, avocado and celery genre ingredients just don’t cut it. With a deep dish pizza that just may be the city’s best, Gino’s East has branched out in recent years and can now be found in the burbs, including the northwestern village of Lake Zurich. There’s no graffiti on…

AlbuquerqueClosed in 2008Gone But Not ForgottenItalianNational Chain

Carrabba’s Italian Grill – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno3:03 AM

This usually means a meal at one of those copycat national chains I avoid like the plague. Although I don’t generally write about such restaurants (if you can’t say anything nice, don’t say anything at all), being a good team player, I do (sometimes begrudgingly) participate in outings to these purveyors of mediocrity. It never fails to amaze and amuse me to see throngs of diners doing their best imitations of Pavlov’s dogs as they line up to consume what is generally pretty horrible food. It’s obvious those clever Madison Avenue brainwashers have done their job well and thanks to years of subjecting their taste buds to the cruel onslaught of mediocre food, America’s dining public just doesn’t seem to have a clue. It’s also apparent that most chain restaurants have a pretty similar template that includes mass-produced food shipped frozen from corporate headquarters thousands of miles away, a kitschy ambience that assaults the senses and copycat recipes that vary very little from one chain to another. One of the very rare national chains which actually has impressed me over the years is Carrabba’s Italian Grill which just doesn’t subscribe to the same template. At Carrabba’s, the Italian dishes are…