Central Grill and Coffee House – Albuquerque, New Mexico

The Central Grill and Coffee House near Old Town

“Life is short. Eat more pancakes and fewer rice cakes”.
~ Unknown

With an almost reverential zeal they come, their cellphone cameras at the ready. The enthusiasm for their pilgrimages has brought them to this hallowed destination from every corner of the country. Some know next to nothing about the city, save for it having been the hometown of chemistry-teacher turned meth-kingpin Walter White. They don’t regard the city with the ignominy with which it’s been portrayed, but as a Mecca replete with landmarks of the groundbreaking television series Breaking Bad. They come for up-close-and-personal views of locations frequented by its characters.

The more enthusiastic among them have gone as far as to toss a pizza on Walter White’s roof, recreating White’s famous pizza toss from season three. Roughly 200 avid devotees wishing to bid one last goodbye to the drug lord better known by the clandestine pseudonym Heisenbergeven participated in his mock funeral. Most, however, are content to take in the landmarks from the air-conditioned conveyances of the several companies capitalizing on the show’s popularity.

Hot and Buttered Salted Caramel Sticky Bun

One landmark Breaking Bad enthusiasts will no longer find is Liu’s Chinese Fast Food Restaurant which made a cameo appearance during a season one episode entitled “Cancer Man.” No longer will fans be able to reenact the scene in which Christian “Combo” Ortega stood outside the restaurant to call Jesse Pinkman, Breaking Bad’s deuteragonist. It may not seem like much to the casual watcher, but to diehard devotees, it’s part of living the dream.

Situated on Old Route 66 directly across the street from the Old Town Plaza parking lot, Liu’s may not have been contemporaneous with the Conquistadores, but it sure seems that way. In May, 2014, the Central Grill and Coffee House replaced Liu’s at the 60-year-old edifice, in the process transforming the nondescript building from a rather austere and uninviting premises to a bright, welcoming diner.

“Christmas Style” Breakfast Burrito with Sausage and Bacon

The Central Grill and Coffee House seats 48 with outdoor seating on an expansive patio accommodating several more patrons. Walk in on a Sunday morning and you’ll swear there are at least 48 guests standing in line to place their orders. The process is rather brisk. While standing in line you’ll have plenty of time to peruse the menu and after you place your order, it’ll be delivered in a short while. Watching one order after another of pancakes being ferried to eagerly awaiting guests is part of the fun.

Pancakes are one of many options on a rather wide-ranging menu that includes numerous breakfast favorites, burgers, sandwiches, salads, sides and “perks.” The latter would be a line-up of coffee and blended smoothies sure to wake you up on a sleepy morning. There’s enough variety on the menu that you’ll be hard-pressed to make a quick decision. Fortunately, as previously stated, you could be in line long enough to deliberate your choices thoroughly.

Carne Adovada Burrito

28 June 2015: Perhaps the most difficult choice to make is deciding from among the scone of the day, muffin of the day and sweet of the day. If the salted caramel sticky bun is available, it’s a no-brainer. This is a sweet treat which should be mentioned in the same breath as the fabled Frontier roll and the cinnamon rolls at San Marcos Cafe outside of Santa Fe. In other words, it’s in rarefied company. It’s even better when served hot with lots of melting butter. Calories be damned; just double-up on the treadmill.

28 June 2015: The behemoth breakfast burrito is probably even more dietetically devastating than the sticky buns. Roughly the size of a log of firewood, it’s engorged with the ingredients New Mexicans love on their breakfast burritos: scrambled eggs, potatoes, cheese and your choice of bacon or sausage (live it up and have both) topped with red or green chile (or both). This is one of the best breakfast burritos to have crossed my path in quite a while. The red chile has a very pleasant piquancy while the green has the roasted nuances aficionados appreciate.

ABQ Western Sandwich

28 June 2015: For my Kim, a carne adovada burrito sans additional chile makes great sense. She contends that the chile in which the pork has marinated has a porcine-blessed flavor profile other chile doesn’t have. She was blown away by the sheer volume of pork with which this burrito is engorged. Tender tendrils of pure pork deliciousness marinated in chile practically made her swoon.

28 June 2015: Among the more intriguing sandwiches on the menu is one called the ABQ Western Sandwich, sliced brisket, smoked sausage, Cheddar and barbecue sauce on a toasted ciabatta bun. One of the things that make this an intriguing sandwich is that there is no smoker on the premises. Somehow, the brisket has the hint of smokiness that seems to indicate it spent time imbibing low-and-slow smoke. The smoked sausage doesn’t quite have the same discernible smoke notes, but it pairs well with the brisket.

Inside-Out Burger with Tater Tots

30 July 2015: When the craving for a blue cheese burger hits and nothing else will do but you don’t want to take out a second mortgage to pay for it, visit the Central Grill where a bleu cheese burger can still be found for under a ten spot. Note that spelling. “Bleu” is simply a nod to the French word for blue, not any type of superior cheese (sorry, Francophiles). The bleu cheese burger is replete with the fetid fromage turophiles love (though for me, there’s never enough). With a creamy, pungent essence, it contrasts nicely with the sweet buns and the Angus beef.

30 July 2015: Just as New Mexicans revere the green chile cheeseburger, Minneapolis, Minnesota residents hold one burger in the highest esteem. They call it the “Juicy Lucy” and it’s essentially a cheese-stuffed burger which oozes molten cheesy goodness with every bite. Delicious though they are, they’re best consumed several minutes after receiving them or you risk burning the roof of your mouth. The Central Grill’s signature burger is called the Inside-Out Burger and it features Cheddar used as a stuffing rather than as a topping. It’s a good burger served with pickles, tomatoes, onions and lettuce on the side along with mustard, ketchup and Tabasco sauce on a condiment cozy. They’re served with your choice of French fries, sweet potato fries, onion rings, potato chips or tater tots.

Chicken Fried Steak Plate

31 July 2018: When I come home and tell my Kim I had dinner with my friend Bruce “Sr. Plata” Silver, her first question is “how was the chicken fried steak.”  Her second, “did you take another picture of Sr. Plata.”  Bruce and I have obviously become very predictable in our advancing geriatric progression.  As chronicled on Gil’s Thrilling…, we’ve been on a quest to find the best chicken fried steak in the Duke City metropolitan area.  The Central Grill is on a short list, one of the very best we’ve had.  It’s also they key component of one of the most generous plates: two eggs prepared any way you want them, a buttermilk biscuit, your choice of hash browns or papitas and a thick slab of chicken fried steak smothered in a creamy white pepper gravy.  Sr. Plata noted right off that the breading on the chicken fried steak was crispy on the edges and had a more prominent “chicken flavor” than others we’ve had.  The creamy white pepper gravy lends a smooth and personality-rich blanket of warm comfort to the thick slab.  It’s a great one.

31 July 2018:One of the specials of the day was something hard to pass up, blue corn pancakes slathered liberally with melted butter.  Not that long ago only a handful of restaurants actually served blue corn pancakes.  Today you can add the word “well” to the previous sentence.  Only a handful of restaurants actually serve blue corn pancakes well.  The Central Cafe and Grill is among those few.  These golden orbs tinged with veins of blue are moist and absolutely delicious.  If there’s one thing wrong with the blue corn pancakes, it’s that they’re not on the menu every day.  They should be!

Blue Corn Pancakes

While Breaking Bad devotees may not find one of their favorite Old Town area landmarks, if the pangs of hunger strike during their pilgrimages, they’ll certainly find a terrific diner and coffee house to sate them.

Central Grill and Coffee House
2056 Central Avenue, S.W.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 554-1424
Web Site | Facebook Page
LATEST VISIT: 31 July 2018
1st VISIT: 28 June 2015
# OF VISITS: 3
RATING: 19
COST: $$
BEST BET: Salted Caramel Sticky Bun, Breakfast Burrito, Carne Adovada Burrito. ABQ Western Sandwich, Black & Bleu Burger, Tater Tots, Inside-Out Burger, Blue Corn Pancakes, Chicken Fried Steak

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About Gil Garduno

Since 2008, the tagline on Gil’s Thrilling (And Filling) Blog has invited you to “Follow the Culinary Ruminations of New Mexico’s Sesquipedalian Sybarite.” To date, nearly 1 million visitors have trusted (or at least visited) my recommendations on nearly 1,100 restaurant reviews. Please take a few minutes to tell me what you think. Whether you agree or disagree with me, I'd love to hear about it.

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10 Comments on “Central Grill and Coffee House – Albuquerque, New Mexico”

  1. As Gil alluded to, I am on a search for the ultimate Chicken Fried Steak in the Land of Enchantment! I have to say the CFS at the Cenral Grill was Great Tasting! It was the most tasting like Fried Chicken that I had. Yes, gravy had no pork bringing a smile to my face, a little more pepper added would be great. I do wish it was bigger, it’s really hard to find restaurants meeting all metrics for: Quality, Taste, Size, Gravy / Chile and Extras ( crispy well done hash browns, eggs cooked beautifully over-medium, blue corn pancakes served with melted butter) but this came mighty close. Wonder if Franks chick and waffles might get add a chicken, waffles and chicken-fried-steak for Sr Plata? Plata out…

    1. Yo Sr. Plata…I’m starting to get lost…well befuddled if truth be told (E.g. Vic’s? Mannies? Milly’s? Western View? Etc?…yada yada.) May I ask for you to put out an “interim” ranked list of…IYHO…the best to least Chicken Fried Steak with gravy platters, i.e. designating which You’d go back for and which Ya wouldn’t. Yo, if you could do a second ranking after factoring in LDL, that would be great if not unique! Say, maybe there’s a App for that!?
      Alas, I drove all the way down 4th St. (aka Pre 1937 Rte 66) to the KFC just beyond The Village of Los Ranchos last night for their Tuesday $2.99 Chicken Fried Steak Especial and as I walked up to the door and having checked if my zipper was up, then checked to find…I forgot my wallet!!! Bottom line? Nothing to report!
      – Say…in looking at Gil’s “Albuquerque Restaurant Index”, do you agree as I do that there should be a Listing for Chicken Fried Steak(s)?
      Thanks!

      1. Roberto,

        Sr. Plata and I have been talking about the Chicken Fried Steak Trail for about two years. It’s a virtual certainty KFC’s rendition won’t be on the list.

        By the way, the relative lack of visits seems to indicate readers are unaware that by hovering over the “Gil’s Highest Rated Restaurants” link on the top menu bar, a sub-menu will display with links to my highest rated New Mexican, Italian, Vietnamese, etc. etc. restaurants. Someday the Chicken Fried Steak Trail will reside alongside that pantheon of my favorite and highest rated restaurants and foods.

        1. Yo Gil! RE KFC wont be on the CFS List! Whoa, I’m gonna trust that is not a prejudgement…LOL BTW, does Sr Plata have any recommendations from the frozen dining selections of Trader Joe’s, WallyMart, Sprouts?

          – No, I did not know about hovering over “Gil’s Highest Rated Restaurants”…very good!

          – NB! Yi Hoo…Does anyone have 2 weeks to travel the country eating BBQ (I presume gratis) while making $10K (with travel/lodging paid for!)? Check it out Ryan et al http://tinyurl.com/ybjw5ol3

    1. Liu’s served Albuquerque from February 1989 – May 2013 (24 years 4 months). I don’t recall who occupied that location before Liu’s but believe it, too, was a restaurant.

  2. Central Grill gets our stamp of approval for breakfast! Really exceeded our expectations. Open early, Great food, really good coffee. Really appreciate having help yourself coffee for refills available on the patio. We will be back.

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