“What colonialism does is cause an identity crisis about one’s own culture.”
~Lupita Nyong’o
Academy Award Winning Actress
Much as we might believe geopolitics has no place in a food blog, food and geopolitics are undeniably intertwined. Perhaps nowhere is that more evident than in the history of Vietnam. In the 17th Century, France began a trade relationship with Vietnam. Two centuries later, France began the colonization of Vietnam. For six decades, France ruled over the Southeast Asian country, essentially relegating the indiginous population to second-class status, if not servitude. During this time, French influence spread across Vietnamese cuisine, architecture, culture, art and cuisine – an influence which continues to live on across the country today.
The French influence on Vietnam’s culinary culture included the introduction of new ingredients and cooking techniques that blended with local flavors. Perhaps the most famous fusion sprang from the iconic baguette. While mostly similar, the Vietnamese style of baguette is made with rice flour instead of wheat flour, giving it a wholly distinct flavor and texture. Baguettes are the canvas on which one of one of the most famous Vietnamese dishes worldwide are constructed: banh mi. These magnificent sandwiches contain a combination of grilled meat, coriander, pickled vegetables and pâté, a true amalgam of the Vietnamese penchant for fresh herbs and crisp, raw vegetables and the French influences of pâté and meat.
French crepes are the progenitor of Vietnamese banh xeo; thin rice flour pancakes folded with prawns or meat, crisp bean sprouts, herbs and shredded lettuce. Although links may exist to Chinese soups, many culinary experts also believe Vietnam’s national dish, pho, was likely inspired by the French beef and vegetable dish, le pot au feu. Coffee was introduced to Vietnam in 1857 by European missionaries and soon became a leading crop for the French colonial government. They established coffee plantations from the late 1800s to capitalize on Vietnam’s warm, humid climate — the ideal growing conditions for the plant.
It’s absolutely not my intention to debate the merits or failures of colonialism nor to provide a culinary history. I’m merely pointing out that throughout their history, Vietnamese people have surmounted an untenable situation to develop a culinary culture I deeply admire and respect. Their capacity for forgiveness is healing and exemplary. These notions come to mind whenever we visit a new Vietnamese restaurant or bakery. Albuquerque’s most recent entry into the pantheon of wonderful Vietnamese bakeries is Le Bakery which opened its doors in April, 2025.
Le Bakery is ensconced in a nondescript shopping center on Juan Tabo just south of Brentwood. The east-facing edifice is owned and operated by Tien Le. Before Le Bakery’s soft-opening in April, 2025, Christine Nguyen shared a loving and inspiring tribute to her aunt’s new venture on the Albuquerque Foodies Facebook page: “I just wanted to take a moment to share something really special. My aunt has been pouring her heart and soul into her dream for over 15 years—perfecting her delicious recipes for baked goods, pastries, drinks and banh mi. Her passion and dedication have finally led to the opening of her very own shop. It’s more than just a bakery—it’s a dream realized, built with love, perseverance, and countless hours in the kitchen.” During our second visit, had the privilege of meeting the delightful Tien who told me she started baking when she had her first child some eleven years ago. Her dutifold husband laughed that he eats all the pastries she bakes at home. It’s a wonder he doesn’t weigh 400-pounds.
That love, perseverance and countless hours in the kitchen are very much in evidence when you enter the smallish bakery. Tragically my iPhone’s lense protector somehow shattered and my exterior photos and photos of the pulchritudinous pastry case were mostly unusable or you’d probably drive post-haste to Le Bakery. Seriously, even though much of its content had been depleted by early-arriving guests, the remaining pastries were akin to edible works of art. Not only did those patries look absolutely scrumptious, there were numerous surprises. Sadly, one of them wasn’t Kouign-Amann (Crystalized croissant), one of my favorite pastries in the universe. Savvy guests had already finished those off. I had to choose between two remaining pastries–Matcha-Strawberry Swirl and Tiramisu Croissant–both heretofore unknown to my palate.
5 July 2025: The tiramisu croissant (Le’s croissant filled with our coffee-soaked savoiardi biscuits, espresso caramel, tiramisu cream, topped with cocoa powder) is outstanding! As in one of the best croissants I’ve ever had croissants. It’s a best of both worlds–the flaky layers, delicate texture, and rich, buttery flavor of a croissant and the strong espresso and the contrast of sweet and slightly tangy mascarpone cream with a dusting of cocoa powder for a touch of bitterness that enhances the overall flavor profile. Also quite enjoyable was the pecan-butterscotch cinnamon brioche, a delightful breakfast treat.
5 July 2025: Le Bakery’s lunch menu features “made to order sandwiches, served on our Vietnamese artisan breads. Everything is from scratch, hand crafted and prepared in-house. Available after 10am“. Vietnamese sandwiches, of course, means banh mi. The Vietnamese Combo, #1 on the menu is made with one cold cut (Vietnamese Ham, Vietnamese Jambon, Vietnamese Pork Roast, Vietnamese Pate) and mayo, radish pickles, cucumbers, pickled serranos (spicy), cilantros, soy sauce. Served on our artisan bread and Le BBQ sauce (or your choice of sauce). It’s an oustanding banh mi though it would have been much better with ALL the cold cuts. That would have truly made it a combination.
5 July 2025: My Kim’s preferred protein on a banh mi isn’t a cold cut, but grilled pork. Unlike her Dagwood clone of a husband, she’s often in the mood for salads instead of sandwiches. Le Bakery’s grilled pork salad (Romaine lettuce, cucumber, grape tomatoes, dried cranberries, roasted nuts, caramelized onion and marinated grilled pork. Served with house-made balsamic dressing and a butter garlic toast) is so good I’d consider ordering it myself were it not for all those sandwiches on the menu. Dried cranberries aren’t an ingredient on the grilled pork banh mi, but after sampling Kim’s salad, I lusted for that possibility. Le Bakery’s balsamic is one of the best we’ve had in town. You’ll want to ask for an extra. All ingredients on the salad exemplified the freshness for which Vietnamese cuisine is known.
24 July 2025: During our time in England, somehow my Kim and I never had the opportunity to try Banoffee Pie (Graham cracker crust layered with housemade caramel, fresh whipped cream and topped with sliced bananas). In fact, this absolutely decadent dessert didn’t cross our lips until visiting the Cornish Pasty Company in Tempe. New Mexican restaurants have yet to discover banafee…at least not in its original form. It thrilled us to no end to find that Le Bakery’s July specials included a Banoffee Pie Latte, “inspired by the beloved dessert, reimagined in a bold coffee.” This wonderful elixir features “rich espresso with house-made banana syrup and silky dulce de leche, then top it with our banana crème (made with only fresh and natural ingredients), extra dulce de leche, a caramelized banana slice, and a crisp vanilla wafer made in-house.” This is an outstanding cup of coffee, well worthy of the bakery’s pastries. Le Bakery’s Facebook post describes it as “creamy, toasty, and full of character — like sipping a banoffee pie with a serious coffee kick.”
24 July 2025: Over the years, I’ve been insulted and demeaned for proclaiming the raisin croissant from Coda Bakery as superior to the Frontier Restaurant’s beloved Frontier roll. In most cases, those nay-sayers have never even tried the raisin croissant. With the launch of Le Bakery, there are two bakeries in which this fabulous pastry can be found. Le Bakery’s version of the galaxy-shaped doughy deliciousness doesn’t quite have as many raisins as Coda’s version, but in every regard it’s an outstanding pastry. Tien admitted to using copious amounts of butter on her rich pastries. Buttery goodness is very much in evidence with this raisin croissant.
The French influence on Le Bakery is apparent, but at heart this is a Vietnamese treasure Duke City diners and coffee lovers should flock to.
Le Bakery
1924 Juan Tabo Blvd., N.E., Suite D
Albuquerque, New Mexico
(505) 219 3152
Website | Facebook Page
LATEST VISIT: 24 July 2025
1st VISIT: 5 July 2025
# OF VISITS: 2
RATING: Excellent – High quality dining experience; very good to excellent food, attentive service, and a well-maintained atmosphere; worth a detour.
COST: $$
BEST BET: Grilled Pork Salad, Vietnamese Combo (Banh Mi), Pecan-butterscotch Cinnamon Brioche, Tiramisu Croissant
REVIEW #1476