Category: Rating: N/R (Not Rated)

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Yardbird Southern Table & Bar – Las Vegas, Nevada

Gil Garduno12:01 AM

Momofuki in New York City, Peter Luger Steak House in Brooklyn,  Joe’s Stone Crab in Miami, Bourbon Steak in San Francisco, Border Grill in Los Angeles, Bouchon in Yountville, Emeril’s in New Orleans, Jaleo in Washington, D.C..  These are among the many restaurants on every true gastronome’s bucket list.  In addition to being helmed by some of the culinary world’s most celebrated luminaries, these pantheons of deliciousness share another commonality.  They all have a presence in Las Vegas casinos where well-heeled guests with plenty of disposable income come to gamble and to eat well. Whether celebrity chef restaurants in Las Vegas are as good as their originals is a matter of debate.  Award-winning restaurants throughout the fruited plain are similarly scrutinized when they launch satellite restaurants in Las Vegas.   Many consistently receive high marks for quality.  Others are considered overhyped or not worth the cost.  A virtual certainty among them is that the big name chefs aren’t at the kitchen preparing meals for every guest who visits.  The connection many celebrity chefs have with their namesake restaurants often ends at the name.  In most cases, chef glitterati do develop the restaurant’s menu, vision and concept but they’re executed on a…

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Peter Luger’s Steakhouse – Las Vegas, Nevada

Gil Garduno12:01 AM

As a 1995 episode of Seinfeld illustrated, steak is not just a guy thing anymore. When Jerry took a blind date to the Old Homestead Steakhouse in New York City, he admitted “I’m not really that much of a meat eater” to which his date replied “You don’t eat meat? Are you one of those…” Questions about his masculinity persisted when she ordered a porterhouse medium rare and Jerry had a salad.  Although I’ve never gone so far as to order a salad at a steakhouse, I’m “one of those“–men who don’t particularly like steak.  Give me a fully dressed baked potato any day. It’s not as though I’ve never had an outstanding steak (The Hamilton Chop House in Durango and David Burke’s Primehouse in Chicago come to mind).  Great steakhouses such as these are few and far in between…very far.  Sadly, most steak is severely overpriced and not nearly good enough to justify the cost.   My Kim isn’t nearly as persnickety as her fussbudget husband.  Steak is her favorite meal.  She wants a steak for every special occasion.  Though she grills a steak better than most restaurants, I remain steadfastly a steak and potatoes guy without the steak.  It works…

AmericanBreakfastBreakfast BurritosDog FriendlyNew MexicoPizzaRating: N/R (Not Rated)

Trail Rider – Cedar Crest, New Mexico

Gil Garduno12:01 AM

During the prehistoric and dark ages when I went to school, we were taught a song called “The Bear Went Over The Mountain.”  When that wandering ursus got to the other side of the mountain, all he could see was the other side of the mountain.  Ostensibly, this song recalls a bear’s fruitless journey to see what lies beyond.  It symbolizes the endless nature of life’s constant undertakings, the continuous, sometimes futile, effort in life to find something beyond the current experience.  Now, that’s the allegorical meaning of the song.  In literal terms, a bear (or anyone of us) going over the Sandia Mountains won’t see the same sights or have the same experiences we have in the Albuquerque side of the mountain. I joked with Joe, the extraordinary baker at Trail Rider, that most of the people who live on the morning side of the mountain (eastern slope) are old hippies.  “Except for us,” he clarified, noting my recent Opie Taylor haircut and his own closely shorn coiffure.  Having grown up within easy walking distance of “The Hog Farm,” a hippie commune in Llano, New Mexico, I know a lot of old hippies.  It’s always amused me how many…

FarmingtonItalianNew MexicoRating: N/R (Not Rated)

Joe’s Italian Restaurant – Farmington, New Mexico

Gil Garduno12:01 AM

Is it disingenuous for restaurants to label themselves with titles and sobriquets they don’t quite (or at least not quite honestly) live up to?  (Politicians do it all the time, so why not restaurants?) Is it pretentious and haughty to use labels with which English-speaking diners might be impressed even though we don’t know what they mean?  Is it instead great marketing, a clever way to increase the number of guests?   It’s something I actually ponder when visiting Italian restaurants.  For example, when our friend Greg Hamilton introduced us to “Joe’s Restaurant” in Farmington, I momentarily wondered if it could possibly be good considering its humble name. Far too many Italian restaurants label themselves as trattorias, osterias and tavolas.  Not knowing what those labels mean, many of us are impressed, believing those terms must signify much more than an “ordinary” restaurant.  In truth, a trattoria is just a type of informal Italian restaurant known for its traditional, home-style, and regional cuisine served in a relaxed, family-like atmosphere).  An osteria is a simple Italian establishment traditionally focused on serving wine and light snacks, similar to a wine bar or pub.  A tavola calda (literally “hot table”), is an Italian cafeteria-style establishments…

2025 James Beard Foundation "Best Chef - Southwest" SemifinalistAlbuquerqueCosta RicanNew MexicoRating: N/R (Not Rated)

Buen Provecho – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno12:01 AM

“The purpose of life is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience.” ~Eleanor Roosevelt The longest-serving first lady in United States history aptly expressed what could be the official lifestyle motto of Costa Rica.  Economizing on words, it’s a lifestyle Costa Ricans call “Pura Vida.”  This colloquial phrase translates to “pure life,” but means so much more. It’s a lifestyle in which you choose to live to the fullest, while nurturing the mind, body and soul.  You can hear the phrase “Pura Vida” echoing throughout Costa Rica.  It’s used as a greeting or expression of happiness, accurately describing the tranquility, wonder and adventure that await visitors and those fortunate enough to live in this idyllic paradise.  Costa Rica is truly an energizing getaway, where visitors can enjoy the latest practices in relaxation and personal care, participate in exciting activities set in a lush natural environment and delight on healthy and nourishing gastronomy. During my eighteen years at Intel, I was blessed to work with and consider as friends several developers from the rainforested Central American Utopia.  Technically and attitudinally they were a joy to work with. …

AmericanBreakfastBreakfast BurritosBurgersCoffeeNew MexicoRating: N/R (Not Rated)

Aly’s @ Sugar’s – Embudo, New Mexico

Gil Garduno11:22 PM

The winding highway meandering along the murky Rio Grande through Embudo is among the most scenic in the Land of Enchantment, particularly in mid-autumn when leaves turn a vibrant shade of gold. For  nearly two decades, motorists drove slowly not only to take in the foliage, but to imbibe the hazy applewood smoke plumes emanating from Sugar’s BBQ & Burgers .  Enchanting aromas wafted into motorized conveyances like a sweet Texas smoke signal beckoning passers-by to try a combo platter or a brisket burrito.  In 2023, the drive alongside the Rio Grande became somewhat less captivating with the discernible absence of those fragrant aromas. From outward appearances, Sugar’s was a humble, ramshackle corrugated-tin shack.  Beyond that exterior facade, it was one of New Mexico’s most heralded eateries.  In 2005–a scant five years after its launch–Sugar’s was named one of the nation’s best best road-side eateries in the United States by Gourmet Magazine.  Local and national ccolades continued to pile up over the years.  In 2010, Sugar’s was designated “memorable” and “one of the best” by Roadfood.com.  In October, 2018, Sugar’s was named one of the ten best barbecue restaurants in New Mexico by James Beard award-winning author Cheryl Alters Jamison…

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Anthony’s Grill – Santa Fe, New Mexico

Gil Garduno12:01 AM

Some restaurants–especially those with extremely diverse menus–defy categorization.   Food writers usually lump them into the category of “American” restaurants in that American cuisine is a veritable hodgepodge of cuisines from throughout the world.  We weren’t sure what to expect during our first visit to Anthony’s Grill in Santa Fe.  We read that Anthony’s specializes in “Asian fusion” with stir-fry dishes that could be Japanese or Chinese depending on the sauce.  We also learned that Anthony’s offers some of the very best fried chicken and fried catfish in the Land of Enchantment.  So, is Anthony’s an Asian fusion restaurant or is it a Southern restaurant?  Is it both?  Does it reallly matter? What does matter about Anthony’s is that this relatively small restaurant serves some of the most delicious food we’ve enjoyed in the City Different.  Specifically (and for me, this is significant) I delighted in the very best catfish and hush puppies I’ve had since leaving Mississippi in 1995.  Yes, catfish, that bottom-feeding, mud-dwelling fish that very few (if any) restaurants in New Mexico seem incapable of preparing well.  I’ve often analogized that the catfish at New Mexico’s restaurants as “coated in sawdust” and as “desiccated as a mummy’s dandruff.” …

AlbuquerqueFine DiningGreekMediterraneanNew MexicoRating: N/R (Not Rated)

Dorothea – Fine Greek: Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno12:01 AM

“What you are is God’s gift to you, what you become is your gift to God.” ~Hans Urs von Balthasar, Prayer The appellation Dorothea literally means “gift of God.”   It’s a name derived from the words dōron (gift) and theos (god). While the name itself is ancient Greek, there is surprisingly  (especially considering the easily titillated denizens of Mount Olympus) no figure in pagan Greek mythology with the name Dorothea.  Instead, Dorothea is the name of a prominent Christian saint, one christened the patron saint of florists, gardeners, and brides.  She is often depicted with a basket of roses and fruit.   The name Dorothea has variants in many different languages, including Dorothée, Dorotea, Dorota, Dorrit, Doretta and more. It has also inspired lots of cute nicknames, including Dora, Thea, Dot, Dottie, Doree and Dodie. Closer to home, Dorothea is an upscale Greek restaurant which first opened its doors in August, 2024.   The restaurant’s website explains that Dorothea is “named in honor of Dorothea, the mother of renowned Greek restaurant mogul Nick Kapnison, our establishment celebrates her legacy of love, elegance, and culinary excellence.”  Nick Kapnison is probably the closest Albuquerque has seen to a Greek god…maybe the deity of dining or demiurge of…

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Arriba Shihuahua – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno12:01 AM

“How do they get away with using the name “Shihuahua” instead of Chihuahua,” I pondered, noting to myself that wokeism and cultural sensitivities have declared offensive virtually any term that  is perceived to diminish a culture or an individual (that perception usually being in the eye of the offended).  Surely, the National Mexican-American Anti-Defamation Committee would take umbrage at that name, much as it did more than fifty years ago when Frito Lay introduced the Frito Bandito.  For those of you not geriatrically advanced enough to remember the Frito Bandito, he was a cartoon mascot who spoke broken English and robbed people of their Fritos corn chips, a reference to the “Mexican bandit” stereotype in Western movies. As if to reinforce my point about people becoming easily offended, Arriba Shihuahua had to respond to a Yelp reviewer’s one-star rating: “We would like to clarify some things. The channels we put on TV do not aim to polarize or discriminate anyone’s political beliefs, but rather serve to entertain customers. (The news was actually a request from a customer.) We’re sorry if it offended you in any way. However, we do not appreciate our personal beliefs being automatically assumed and being disrespected for…

AlbuquerqueAmericanNew MexicanNew MexicoRating: N/R (Not Rated)

The Range – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno12:01 AM

It’s not very often (actually never) I consult Google’s Artificial Intelligence (AI) engine, much less copy and use AI-generated blather verbatim. When at a loss for words as to how to describe a “real foodie,” I liked Google’s definition so much I’m sharing it: “A real foodie is someone with a deep passion and appreciation for food, beyond just eating to survive. They actively seek out new and diverse culinary experiences, enjoy exploring different cuisines, and are knowledgeable about food preparation, ingredients, and even the cultural context of food.”  One of the key characteristics of a real foodie (according to AI) is “Social: They enjoy sharing their culinary discoveries with others, whether through social media, blogs, or in-person gatherings.” That last characteristic may best describe our new friends Cliff and Mariton whose culinary adventures on Instagram have both delighted and intrigued me for years.  What distinguishes Cliff and Mariton from other foodies who share their findings online is that their restaurant posts are always about the foods.  Theirs is not a self-aggrandizing platform in which food plays a secondary role.  Their photographs are crisp and clear, centered around their restaurant meals.  You can read their passion in the well-written descriptions of their…

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Afghan Kebab House – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno12:01 AM

The juxtoposition of beauty, humanity and tragedy may best be exemplified by a photographic portrait taken in 1984 that graced the cover of National Geographic.  Christened “Afghan Girl,” the photograph depicted Sharbat Gula, a 12-year-old Afghan refugee in Pakistan during the Soviet-Afghan War.   Widely described as the “First World’s Third World Mona Lisa,” the image became a rallying cry for compassion among the Western world for the attrocities being committed in Afghanistan.  CNN called it the world’s most famous photograph.  A framed photograph of the green-eyed Afghan girl hangs prominently on one wall of Albuquerque’s Afghan House. Since 1979 when the Soviet Union invaded Afghanistan, more than four-million people have fled the violence and crossed over the border into neighboring Pakistan.  Among them was the Hussaini family which fled their Kabul home for the relative safety of Pakistan.  Most of the ten member family–five boys, three girls, two parents–remained in Pakistan for five years before emigrating to the United States in 2016.  One son, who had served as an interpreter and translator for U.S. troops, preceded the family by four years, settling in New Mexico.  With Afghanistan under Taliban control, family connections to the U.S. military meant the family risked…