Andreoli Italian Grocer – Scottsdale, Arizona

Mangia e stai zitto.” That’s what you’ll read on the back of staff shirts at Andreoli Italian Grocer along with the restaurant logo on the sleeve. From Italian it translates to “Eat and Shut Up!” One server told us that phrase is common in the Italian home where discussing the day’s happenings is secondary to enjoying the meal. We also heard that the saying matches the signature no-nonsense, authentic Italian attitude of Chef Giovanni Scorzo. Sure enough, Chef Scorzo’s debut book “Shut Up and Eat!: A Journey to a Symphonic Culinary Masterpiece” even features that phrase. When Food Network gliteratti…

Tacos Chiwas – Phoenix, Arizona

The city of Phoenix has a population of approximately 1.66 million residents, making it the fifth most populous city in the United States.  As anchor for the broader Phoenix-Mesa-Chandler-Scottsdale-Tempe, etc., etc.  metropolitan area, more than 4.8 million people call the Valley Of The Sun home.  So no, it’s not glutted with designer taco shops competing with modest mom-and-pop taco joints.  As in Austin, Texas, there can’t be nearly enough taco shops to appease denizens and visitors who believe tacos should be on the USDA food pyramid–maybe at the top right above pizza and burgers. At the risk of delving (or…

Patty Man – Albuquerque, New Mexico

“Hotter than a sizzling flat-top, More powerful than a wood-fired grill, Able to stack towering flavors in a single bite… Look, up at the Sawmill! It’s a James Beard semifinalist It’s the king of the grill… It’s The Patty Man!“ Chef Sean “The Patty Man” Sinclair is a self-effacing guy, more like mild-mannered reporter Clark Kent than his “man of steel” alter ego.  You won’t see Chef Sinclair run into a phone booth to don his apron and toque nor will gawking crowds point toward him and utter “Look!  In the kitchen, it’s a cook.  It’s a chef.  It’s Sean…

Coda Bakery – Albuquerque, New Mexico

JP, my former boss at Intel used to pride himself on consistently working “half days.” If you’re thinking you’d like a job where you work only four hours a day, you’ve misinterpreted his definition of “half days.” To him, half days is a literal term meaning twelve hours a day. When most of us are done for after only nine or ten hours, he was just starting what he called his “second shift.” Very few of us have the stamina, initiative and especially the passion for what we do to work “half days.” I know restaurateurs for whom half days…

Pizzeria Bianco – Phoenix, Arizona

To celebrate the 100 year anniversary of pizza in America, Ed Levine, the creator/founder of Serious Eats,  ate nothing but pizza for an entire twelve month period, taking a representative pulse of the best from among thousands of pizza purveyors. His terrific tome, Pizza A Slice of Heaven, published in 2005,  provides a definitive guide to a much-loved product that in its elemental form is simplicity itself–bread, cheese and whatever toppings a pizzaioli artisan might care to add. To the surprise of many, Levine declared the best pizza in America (and the world, for that matter) to be made in the…

Fry Bread House – Phoenix, Arizona

The James Beard America’s Classics Award honors locally owned restaurants with timeless appeal, beloved in their region for serving quality food that reflects the character and cultural traditions of their community, and must have been operating for at least 10 years, recognizing enduring, community-rooted establishments over flashy new trends. While the America’s Classic award is presented annually, only six of the twelve James Beard regions are eligible each year.  That means every other year, each region is represented.  This ensures broad coverage over time.  The most recent New Mexico recipient of the America’s classic award is the incomparable Mary &…

LOTUS OF SIAM – Las Vegas, Nevada

In the August, 2000 issue of Gourmet Magazine, Jonathan Gold,  the only food critic to ever earn a Pulitzer Prize, called the Lotus of Siam restaurant in Las Vegas, Nevada “the single best Thai restaurant in North America.”  Not a disparaging word was heard or a dissenting opinion offered among the cognoscenti save for those who argued that the word “Thai” should be removed from from Gold’s audacious proclamation.  Lotus of Siam is THAT good! In the decade plus since Gold’s assertion, every reputable critic from every credible publication has jumped on the bandwagon, essentially echoing or adding to to…

PIOCHE FOOD GROUP – Fruitland, New Mexico

As my friend and retired restaurateur Tom Hamilton and I watched the Pioche family prepare a meal for some twelve guests, we both marveled at the quiet efficiency of the kitchen.  A veteran of decades leading highly-regarded kitchens, Tom related that most kitchens are a loud and frenetic hive of activity amped up to high volume.  Communication among kitchen staff is an absolute must to ensure synchronicity, especially when multiple courses are being prepared.  Instead of the characteristic chaotic din of most restaurant kitchens, the Pioche family worked in harmony, focusing on the quiet, efficient, and harmonious execution of the…

Buen Provecho – Albuquerque, New Mexico

“The purpose of life is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience.” ~Eleanor Roosevelt The longest-serving first lady in United States history aptly expressed what could be the official lifestyle motto of Costa Rica.  Economizing on words, it’s a lifestyle Costa Ricans call “Pura Vida.”  This colloquial phrase translates to “pure life,” but means so much more. It’s a lifestyle in which you choose to live to the fullest, while nurturing the mind, body and soul.  You can hear the phrase “Pura Vida” echoing throughout Costa…

MARY & TITO’S CAFE – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Old-timers whose opinions I respect consistently rate Mary & Tito’s as Albuquerque’s best restaurant for New Mexican food, a restaurant that has been pleasing the most savvy and indoctrinated palates alike since 1963. It takes a lot to impress some of those old-timers, none of whom see much substance in the flash and panache of the nouveau restaurants and their pristine veneer and effusive, over-the-top flamboyance. These guys and gals are impressed only by New Mexican food the way their abuelitas prepared it–unadorned, authentic and absolutely wonderful. If you want to evoke their ire, take them to one of the…

Birdies by Chef Kevin Lee – Edmond, Oklahoma

My Kim and I regard ourselves as ambassadors for the great state of New Mexico, especially when we travel.  We’re often asked where we’re from.  Invariably we run into people whose perceptions about the Land of Enchantment are far from kind.  Some actually believe Breaking Bad is a documentary about the condition of life in New Mexico where wild west lawlessness is rampant.  If only perceptions of New Mexico were as gracious and kind as those of Oklahoma.  Throughout our week-long sojourn in the Sooner State, state pride was palpable.   You would expect that from locals, but some of the…