Category: Albuquerque

AlbuquerqueJapaneseRating: Very GoodSushi

Shogun Japanese Restaurant – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno3:28 AM

It stands to reason that what is conceivably one of Albuquerque’s best sushi restaurants is named for the Shogun, the title accorded the supreme ruler of Japan for about eight centuries. What most people may not realize, however, is that sushi originated in China as a method to preserve fish by pickling and fermentation. Sushi, as we know it today, began to take form in the 18th century Japan when seafood vendors wrapped fish with seaweed and rice as an edible and decorative package which ultimately evolved into the roll (maki) style. The nigiri style, consisting of a piece of fish on a bed of rice, originated in Tokyo sometime later. Sushi’s integration into the American culture began in the 1970s and today there are over 5,000 sushi restaurants in the United States. In my 48 years on planet Earth, I’ve sampled probably 30 to 40 different sushi restaurants and won’t pretend to be an expert, but can say unequivocally that Albuquerque’s Shogun is among the very best I’ve ever had and may be in a class by itself in Albuquerque. The wasabi colored walls are the first indication that this restaurant is something special. Then there’s the sushi bar,…

AlbuquerqueChickenNational ChainRating: N/R (Not Rated)

Wingstop – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno5:27 AM

During his illustrious NFL career Dallas Cowboys quarterback Troy Aikman passed for 32,942 yards and 165 touchdowns. What it seems he can’t pass is the opportunity to add to his wealth by endorsing mediocre products. How else can you explain the marketing campaign touting Aikman as their “biggest fan?” Maybe he did receive one concussion too many during his playing career? Whatever the case, it appears the future Hall of Famer may have fumbled on this one. Sure Albuquerque is in the northernmost portion of the Chihuahuan desert but that’s no reason chicken wings and legs should be so wrinkly dry. The menu claims the garlic parmesan wings are “worth wrecking your breath for” but what really wrecks this offering is the dust bowl sized dousing of parmesan. Even cheese lovers might pass on the garlic parmesan wings while garlic enthusiasts are left wondering where the garlic is. Slightly better are the Hawaiian barbecue wings, a gooey, sticky mess sweetened with pineapple and honey. Your wings are served with bread rolls–no butter, just the rolls. There are several sides on the menu, but if they’re anything like the bourbon baked beans, we’ll pass. These beans were nearly as dry as…

AlbuquerqueClosed in 2005Gone But Not ForgottenMexican

Fiesta Flavors – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno4:27 PM

Mixed fruit cups, buttered corn nibblet cups, fruity refreshing beverages and frozen fresh fruit treats are the centerpieces of several quickly growing niche chains, one of which launched an Albuquerque shop in the spring of 2004. That niche includes both diet and health conscious treat seekers as well as the growing Hispanic market, making the Duke City a natural choice for Fiesta Flavors. Niche or not, the intriguing menu has something for everyone. The fruit cups, whether mixed or as a single fruit offering, are served with your choice of three toppings: a sweet and creamy blend of sweetened and flavored sour cream, a low-fat and sugar free yogurt and best of all, the Fiesta chili blend of salt, lime and chili. As served on the bananas con crema, the homemade sweet cream enlivens the fruit and leaves you craving more. The star of the show, however, are the corn cups which feature hot buttered corn cut from the cob then mixed with the Fiesta chili blend, cheese and sour cream. There’s no picking at your teeth after a bowl of this masterpiece. Fruity freezes made with your two choices of fruit blended with your fresh juice choice are the…

AlbuquerqueClosed in 2008Gone But Not ForgottenItalianNational Chain

Carrabba’s Italian Grill – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno3:03 AM

This usually means a meal at one of those copycat national chains I avoid like the plague. Although I don’t generally write about such restaurants (if you can’t say anything nice, don’t say anything at all), being a good team player, I do (sometimes begrudgingly) participate in outings to these purveyors of mediocrity. It never fails to amaze and amuse me to see throngs of diners doing their best imitations of Pavlov’s dogs as they line up to consume what is generally pretty horrible food. It’s obvious those clever Madison Avenue brainwashers have done their job well and thanks to years of subjecting their taste buds to the cruel onslaught of mediocre food, America’s dining public just doesn’t seem to have a clue. It’s also apparent that most chain restaurants have a pretty similar template that includes mass-produced food shipped frozen from corporate headquarters thousands of miles away, a kitschy ambience that assaults the senses and copycat recipes that vary very little from one chain to another. One of the very rare national chains which actually has impressed me over the years is Carrabba’s Italian Grill which just doesn’t subscribe to the same template. At Carrabba’s, the Italian dishes are…

AlbuquerqueClosed in 2008Gone But Not ForgottenNew Mexican

Chilacas – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno1:50 AM

In the vernacular of the cannabis consuming culture “rollin’ fat ones” means something entirely different than what it means at Chilacas where a “fat one” is a giant flour tortilla stuffed with your choice of Spanish rice or cilantro and lime spiked rice; black beans, posole or refried beans; your choice of meat–spiced beef, carne adovada, barbacoa, pollo; salsa or red or green chile; cheddar cheese or sour cream and such additives as lettuce, tomatoes and onions. All of these ingredients can also find a home layered on a Chilacas bowl, served on an order of three tacos or atop a crisp romaine salad and even served low carb style. Chilacas, which according to a placard on a restaurant wall is a Mexican slang word for New Mexico chiles, is a 2004 entrant into the Albuquerque dining scene. Although innovative for Albuquerque, it follows the concept of Chipotle’s which has a national presence. Chilacas first restaurant in the Land of Enchantment launched in Santa Fe in 2003 but closed within three years. With a production line preparation style reminiscent of Subway, it has a special appeal to people on the go and to youth. That might account for the loud…

AlbuquerqueClosed in 2018Gone But Not ForgottenKorean

Korean Barbecue House – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno1:48 AM

For dining patrons in the know, the 2002 closure of the Fu Shou House was one of the most heartrending moves in the Duke City restaurant scene. In the Korean B.B.Q. House, Fu Shou was reborn. While the Fu Shou proprietors don’t own the Korean B.B.Q. House, they did hold court in the kitchen for a while after the restaurant’s launch crafting the delicious entrees for which they were renown. Another chef now stewards the kitchen, but has maintained the high standards of his predecessors. Initially serving both Korean and Chinese food, this Central Avenue restaurant now focuses exclusively on Korean food and has already captured quite a loyal following–for good reason. The bulgogi is spicy, sweet, tangy and absolutely delicious. Ditto for the bulkalbi which thankfully was also meaty and relatively free of fat. Unlike bulgogi and bulkalbi served at some other Duke City restaurants (primarily Japanese and Chinese restaurants), the Korean B.B.Q. House version was made of high quality meat, not the sinewy, fatty stuff which should be saved for the house pets. Both the bulgogi and bulkalbi are served with five side dishes, including one of the spiciest kimchees in town. An accompanying egg drop soup was…