Blog

AlbuquerqueClosed in 2013Gone But Not ForgottenSouthwestern

Peppers – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno2:11 AM

True to the restaurant’s name, Peppers chefs play tribute to chiles and peppers so ubiquitous to New Mexico cooking. In many of their creations, they incorporate New Mexico green and red chile, chipotle, Chimayo red chile, Habañero, Serrano, Pepperonici and red and green bell peppers (a chile icon denotes all items in which chiles or peppers are used in the preparation). Despite the often clever use of chiles and peppers, Marriot’s signature restaurant suffers from inconsistency that has kept us from patronizing this Pueblo themed restaurant more often. Among the items we’ve enjoyed most is the hot spinach and artichoke dip served in a sour dough bowl with red, blue and gold tortilla chips. The salads are bounteous and the salad dressings are innovative, particularly the thick honey mustard dressing. Peppers version of this party favorite is among the best we’ve found in Albuquerque. Ditto for the crème brulee, a wonderfully light dessert done exceptionally well. Peppers specialties include a steak and enchiladas combination in which an eight ounce sirloin and three enchiladas fill your plate. The enchiladas, in particular, are pretty good in a city where everyone knows good enchiladas. Not so good are the fajitas which–contrary to conventions–are…

AlbuquerqueClosed in 2007FilipinoGone But Not Forgotten

Fil-Am Fast Food Mart – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno1:50 PM

The pursuit of the secret to a happy life has led people to metaphysical, psychological and religious paths. Where it really should have taken them is to a tiny Albuquerque restaurant in a nondescript shopping center where the secret to happy living is posted for one and all to see. The elusive secret consists of only six simple steps: (1) Come to Fil-Am Fast Food Mart; (2) Check out mouth watering menu; (3) Select items that appeal to your tastes; (4) Pay and leave tip; (5) Leave happy; and (6) For best results, repeat tomorrow and the day after, and the day after, and the day after. I can vouch for one thing–dining at Albuquerque’s only Filipino restaurant will definitely make you happy. Launched in November, 2004, Fil-Am (shortened version of Filipino-American) Fast Food Mart may sound like competition for 7-11 stores, but it’s so much more. Austere to a fault, Fil-Am includes a small market with Filipino products, but it’s the undersized cafe that will be the huge attraction, particularly because of its proximity to Kirtland Air Force Base. Place your order at a counter for one of the six combination plates (rotating daily) and in minutes, your order…

AmericanBurgersClosed in 2021Gone But Not ForgottenNevadaUnited States

Burger Bar Las Vegas – Las Vegas, Nevada (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno12:11 AM

In light of protracted enmity between America and France in recent years, you might think the notion of a French chef crafting an American institution, the hamburger, would be considered audacious at the least and heretical at the worse. True burger aficionados, however, are neither Francophiles nor Francophobes. We’re just crazy about burgers–the bigger, the better. That’s why when French chef Hubert Keller launched the Burger Bar, burger maniacs flocked to the restaurant’s sky bridge location connecting Luxor and Mandalay Bay. Keller improved on the concept of “build your own burger” by giving diners more options than Burger King ever thought possible with its “have it your way” campaign. Well heeled patrons with money to burn might well opt for the Rossini burger, a treasure trove made with Kobe beef, sautéed foie gras and shaved truffles. At $60, that burger is one of the country’s most costly. The Burger Bar bears little resemblance to the typical American diner. Its cherry wood booths include small-screen televisions showing what appears to be 8 millimeter restorations of family vacations from the 50s and 60s as well as somewhat risqué for the time ads depicting the human body in as much undress as permitted…

ChineseClosed in 2015Dim SumGone But Not ForgottenNevadaUnited States

Cathay House – Las Vegas, Nevada (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno7:49 PM

There are two things I rail against which might classify some of my restaurant reviews as a bully pulpit. One is the incursion of chain restaurants, a pitiable parade of mediocrity that has largely resulted in the homogenization and “dumbing down” of the American palate. The other is the lack of authenticity in so-called ethnic restaurants, a lacking that often goes hand-in-hand with the culinary chaining of America’s restaurants. In my reviews of New Mexican food restaurants, I refer to this phenomenon as the “anglosizing” of New Mexican food (the Taco Bell phenomenon). In Chinese restaurants, this “Americanization” phenomenon manifests itself in the offering of deep fried, heavily coated meats bathed in a syrupy sauce (nee P.F. Chang’s). Restaurants which excel in the preparation of outstanding meals without compromising their cultural and ethnic traditions have become far and few in between. When Chinese Restaurant News listed the top 100 Chinese restaurants in America, I had high hopes that the honorees would provide both a genuine and an excellent dining experience. In the Cathay House, I was right in one respect. The Cathay House, the only Las Vegas restaurant on the list, was as authentic as you could hope to find.…

AlbuquerqueClosed in 2008Gone But Not ForgottenSandwich

Pastrami & Things – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno1:57 AM

During a 1997 episode of Seinfeld, the “show about nothing,” George Costanza and his girlfriend du jour discussed introducing food into their lovemaking. George listed as potential candidates: strawberries, chocolate sauce, pastrami on rye with mustard and honey. His girlfriend, unfortunately, failed to appreciate the erotic qualities of pastrami. Ultimately George met up with a woman who declared pastrami to be “the most sensual of all the salted cured meats.” Their lustful appetites took over and they succumbed to the pastrami inspired throes of passion. I don’t know about pastrami being the most sensual of all salted cured meats, but do know there are few sandwiches quite as wonderful as a pastrami sandwich. Alas, not all pastrami is created equal. The perfect pastrami finds its genesis as brisket given a salt and spice rub, dry cured, smoked, and cooked. Having grown up in bucolic Northern New Mexico, I had no idea pastrami existed until the Air Force sent me to Massachusetts. It was love at first bite. For two years I visited delis throughout New England and New York City in search of the best pastrami. Since returning to New Mexico, I’ve lamented the fact that Albuquerque has been short-changed…

AlbuquerqueJapaneseRating: Very GoodSushi

Shogun Japanese Restaurant – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno3:28 AM

It stands to reason that what is conceivably one of Albuquerque’s best sushi restaurants is named for the Shogun, the title accorded the supreme ruler of Japan for about eight centuries. What most people may not realize, however, is that sushi originated in China as a method to preserve fish by pickling and fermentation. Sushi, as we know it today, began to take form in the 18th century Japan when seafood vendors wrapped fish with seaweed and rice as an edible and decorative package which ultimately evolved into the roll (maki) style. The nigiri style, consisting of a piece of fish on a bed of rice, originated in Tokyo sometime later. Sushi’s integration into the American culture began in the 1970s and today there are over 5,000 sushi restaurants in the United States. In my 48 years on planet Earth, I’ve sampled probably 30 to 40 different sushi restaurants and won’t pretend to be an expert, but can say unequivocally that Albuquerque’s Shogun is among the very best I’ve ever had and may be in a class by itself in Albuquerque. The wasabi colored walls are the first indication that this restaurant is something special. Then there’s the sushi bar,…

New MexicoNew Mexico Culinary Treasures TrailRating: Very GoodSteak

Texas Reds – Red River, New Mexico

Gil Garduno3:09 PM

Note: On Wednesday, November 3rd, 2004 Texas Reds burnt to the ground, but like a Phoenix, it has been rebuilt, albeit no longer as a two story monolith on Red River’s main street. In 2006, Texas Red’s also launched a second Colfax county restaurant, this one in Eagle Nest. What does the alpine village of Red River in the picturesque Moreno Valley have in common with San Marcos, Texas, the beautiful gateway to the Texas Hill Country? Aside from both being heavily populated by Texans, they both can boast of a Texas Reds restaurant. The original Texas Reds has been a Red River dining destination serving generous portions of friendly service and old west ambience since Thanksgiving, 1967. With an overdone touristy atmosphere that includes checkerboard tablecloths, wooden planked floors and the perfunctory peanuts you can toss on the floor, Texas Reds is a carnivore’s paradise. Its old west saloon is at ground level while the dining rooms are upstairs. While it’s true that dining at nearly 9,000 feet makes the food seem to taste better and your appetite more robust, it’s also true that Texas Reds proffers one of the very best steaks in New Mexico. Charbroiled in butter,…

Closed in 2010Gone But Not ForgottenNew MexicanNew MexicoTaos County

The Burrito Wagon – Taos, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno12:34 AM

Elvis Presley once crooned about “Memories pressed between the pages of my mind–memories sweetened through the ages just like wine.” Sometimes memories take you back to an idyllic time or place when things were simpler and food tasted better. Such is the case with my memories of the Burrito Wagon, a Taos institution I began frequenting shortly after its 1970 launch. No stereotypical “roach coach” to be derided and laughed at was this mobile kitchen serving the finest overstuffed burritos in Northern New Mexico. In my romantic’s mind, my unabashed affection for the Burrito Wagon took me to that idyllic time and place. Alas, the reality was that because the Burrito Wagon is not open on weekends, we hadn’t visited since 1999. A September, 2004 visit saw my idyllic memories shattered and cruel reality set in. The Burrito Wagon just isn’t the same restaurant that warranted delicious dreams. That reality set in when we discovered beans, ground beef and chile ensconced in store bought tortillas similar to the inferior products proffered by real roach coaches. If memory serves me right, The Wagon’s burritos once featured tortillas that tasted as if they were freshly extricated from a hot comal. My recollections…

AmericanClosed in 2008Gone But Not ForgottenNew MexicoSanta Fe

Cafe Pink – Santa Fe, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno5:08 PM

For people watching, there may be no better Santa Fe venue than the outdoor patio at Cafe Pink, a 2004 addition to the “City Different” dining scene. The people watching is free and a meal at Cafe Pink is only slightly more expensive. Priceless might be a good term for the colorful mural depicting the Santa Fe fiesta scene past and present. That mural provides a backdrop history buffs might prefer studying to watching tourists with their mouths agape and their eyes wide with wonder at Santa Fe’s many historical attractions (the most striking of which is our incomparable blue sky). Despite being a relative newcomer, Cafe Pink has an impressive pedigree as a member of the famous Pink Adobe Cafe restaurant family. The Pink Adobe Cafe is the oldest family run restaurant in Santa Fe and is one of the city’s most popular dining destinations. Cafe Pink’s hip cafe ambience is somewhat reminiscent of patio dining in Portland, Oregon, albeit under more friendly skies. Its concept is simple–place your order at a counter, take a seat and wait for your meal to be served. Panini sandwiches are a lunch specialty while an assortment of breakfast entrees are also available.…

AmericanCaliforniaRating: N/R (Not Rated)United States

Parcel 104 – Santa Clara, California

Gil Garduno2:55 AM

Freshly caught trout, free-range chickens, hand-picked fruits and vegetables–those are what most influence Bradley Ogden, an uber chef and restaurant impresario dedicated to seasonal, farm-fresh American fare. Like a sculptor who painstakingly fashions inspiring masterpieces, Ogden crafts memorable dining experiences from the freshest ingredients available, melding them so that their inherent flavors, colors and textures combine to bring out the best in each other. Proprietor of several high-end restaurants primarily in northern California, his name has become synonymous with new American cuisine. Las Vegas chowhounds wax poetic about Ogden’s eponymous restaurant, most often singing the praises of the Maytag blue cheese soufflé. In 2003, that Vegas restaurant earned James Beard accolades as the “best new restaurant” in America. While not as nationally celebrated, Parcel 104 (whose name comes from the tract of land on which sits the Marriott which houses this restaurant) has earned a lion’s share of awards in the San Francisco area where competition for plaudits is keen. My expectations were high, but dashed almost immediately when I couldn’t be seated in the dining room. Assurances by the hostess that the restaurant’s menu was also available on the spacious lounge placated me somewhat, but the long wait for…

BreakfastNew MexicoNew Mexico Culinary Treasures TrailRating: ExcellentSanta FeSouthwestern

Plaza Cafe – Santa Fe, New Mexico

Gil Garduno2:20 PM

Just as with people, a city is best defined by its heart. For Santa Fe, that would be its historic Plaza which has been, for much of four centuries, the city’s hub of commerce, culture and government. The Plaza is at the confluence of El Camino Real (the Spanish Royal Road from Mexico City), The Old Pecos Trail and the Santa Fe Trail. These historic transportation routes made settlement possible and facilitated trade and commerce. Today the Plaza is comprised of numerous shops, museums and restaurants surrounding a central park lined with towering shade trees. Because many of its buildings have changed little since Spanish colonial times, the Plaza is listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. The city’s oldest restaurant, the Plaza Cafe which has been serving Santa Fe since 1918, is on the southwestern side of the quadrant which comprises the Plaza. As it approaches its centennial, the Plaza Cafe remains one of the city’s most popular dining destinations, sought out by locals and tourists alike. The 2006 edition of the New Mexico Blue Book published by the Secretary of State’s office documents that in 1947, the Plaza Cafe was purchased by Dionysi Razatos, a Greek immigrant…