Category: Albuquerque

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Mama Zahira Foodies – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno1:00 AM

FROM THE BITE:  “In Albuquerque alone, there are too many places doing falafel for us to dine at them in quick succession. That’s despite the Wacky Iraqi’s temporary relocation to Michigan (he tells us he hopes to return in a few years). It’s so easy to be judgmental, to take things at face value…to assume.  As my friend Bruce “Sr. Plata” Silver and I approached Mama Zahira Foodies’ order window, we espied the self-deprecating term “The Wacky Iraqi in Albuquerque” scrawled by the vehicle’s rear wheel well.  The term “wacky” made us wary.  It’s just not a term we associate with great food.  No sooner had we reached the window when we were greeted by Riadh Seheem, a thickly accented, very gregarious gentleman who couldn’t wait to tell us about his food truck.  Talking a mile a minute with the unfettered enthusiasm of a child at Christmas, he raved about his truck’s menu.  Yes, it would have been far too easy to be judgmental, but what a mistake that would have been. A quote from French emperor and brilliant military strategist Napoleon Bonaparte now comes to mind and it has nothing to do with an enemy’s tendencies in battle.  That…

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Bamboo Grill – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno12:01 AM

In his 30s, curmudgeonly London food critic Jay Rayner who’s been called the “enfant terrible (literally “terrifying child) of the gastronomic scene,” came to the realization that he hated hangovers more than he hated being drunk.  During a visit to a Vietnamese restaurant in London, he achieved an epiphany:  “huge steaming bowls of a deeply aromatic beef broth called pho, bobbing with slivers of meat and wide rice noodles – would prove a perfect cure. The head pain would ease. The pitch and roll of the stomach would steady. A gentle, soft comfy cloud of well being would descend. And all this for not very much money at all.” A 2017 article from the travel experts of Lonely Planet also believes pho is “an excellent hangover cure.”  In fact, pho appears first on a list of personal tips on how to survive a hangover on the road.  The article’s editor expounded further: “The broth rehydrates, the sodium gives you a little pick-me-up, and the freshly cooked beef adds protein in wafer-thin slices (which is all I can usually stomach in this state).”   The article concludes: “Even an image of a steamy bowl of pho can cure that headache for…

AlbuquerqueBarbecueNew MexicoRating: N/R (Not Rated)

S-A Barbecue – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno9:21 AM

London-based restaurant critic Jay Rayner makes barbecue sound a bit like a scientific process: “the long, virtuous interplay of fire, smoke and time on cow and pig muscle fibre; who sees only joyous caramelisation and the deep flavours gifted by the Maillard reaction, when heat says hello to amino acids and natural sugars and they all get along famously.”  He’s actually quite right, but most of us got enough chemistry formulas in high school.   We recognize that at its most basic, the formula for barbecue is expressed much more simply: meat plus smoke plus time plus (or minus) sauce equals delicious bliss. Okay, my formula only sounds simple.  Mastering the art and science of “low and slow” actually takes a long time and extensive practice, often fraught with trial and error at the expense of ruined meats.  Speaking from personal experience, not all of us have the patience or aptitude to smoke meats people actually want to eat much less to become pit masters.  It’s a true trial by fire that shouldn’t be undertaken by the faint of heart or devoid of talent.  Survey the Duke City barbecue scene and you might conclude that baptisms by fire and smoke…

AlbuquerqueMediterraneanNew MexicoRating: N/R (Not Rated)

Kabab House – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno12:01 AM

Unlike New York City, Albuquerque might not ever truly be mistaken for “a cultural melting pot.”  Though numerous ethnicities are scattered throughout the city’s 189.5 square miles, some of their culinary cultures are vastly underrepresented (if at all represented) among the city’s restaurants. Not even in the International District–where you might feel as if you’re jumping from continent to continent as you take in mutually incomprehensible languages–will you find restaurants representing some of the world’s great culinary cultures.  As we’ve espied people draped in the traditional attire of their homelands assiduously scouring Talin Market’s shelves, we’ve often contemplated the dearth of such restaurants.  For gastronomes, one of the pleasures of eating out is experiencing unfamiliar foods and new flavors.  We pride ourselves in being adventurous.  Often that venturesome spirit pays off with the discovery of a delicious new cuisine and frequent return visits to further explore the menu.  We’ve had the great fortune of exploring and enjoying many of the world’s most historically significant and delicious cuisines, but recognize there’s so much more out there to try.  Thomas Jefferson astutely pointed out that “If you want something you’ve never had, you must be willing to do something you’ve never done.”…

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Salty Catch – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno3:24 PM

As children growing up in landlocked and agrarian Peñasco, my siblings and I led a very sheltered life. Our extremely provincial experience with “seafood” was limited to Mrs. Paul’s fish sticks which we dipped in Kraft’s sandwich spread (we didn’t know about tartar sauce) and (gasp, the horror) Mrs. Paul’s fried shrimp. Sure, we snared the legal limit (yeah, right) of German brown trout, cutthroat trout and rainbow trout in the cold, rocky waters of the mountain streams in our backyard, but that wasn’t “seafood.” That was fish! One commonality among the “seafood” and even the “fish” we experienced was that it was all fried. Okay, so the Mrs. Paul’s seafood was already breaded and fried when we removed it from its hermetically sealed container. All we had to do was put it on a baking pan and bake it “until crispy and browned.” Despite my mom following the instructions on the box, both the fish sticks and shrimp had a mushy and oily texture. It certainly didn’t have the wonderful mouth-feel of the fish she fried for us. One memorable school trip to the “big city” of Albuquerque included a visit to Sizzler, a “fancy” steakhouse chain that would…

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Urbano Pasta Kitchen – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno11:14 AM

“To break bread together,” a phrase as old as the Bible, captures the power of a meal to forge relationships, bury anger, provoke laughter.” ~The Joy of Food From National Geographic Sharing a meal creates a unique sense of intimacy felt by all who sit together at the table.  It’s an act that can spark new friendships, solidify lifetime bonds and serve as the backdrop for new memories.   Dining together is the most communal and binding action humans can take–an act The Atlantic describes  as “a quintessential human experience.”  It’s a universal act that transcends cultures, borders and geopolitical divides and it’s been practiced since the dawn of time.   Or at least for 300,000 years  according to archaeologists who unearthed evidence of ancient meals where diners gathered to eat together at a cave near Tel Aviv. Professor Ayelet Fishbach published a study in the Journal of Consumer Psychology that showed colleagues who ate similar foods together experienced higher rates of trust and closeness than those who ate alone.   If you’ve ever worked in a team environment, you can relate to that finding.  It’s amazing just how many agreements are brokered and how many ideas are conceived when two…

AlbuquerqueAsianChineseNew MexicoRating: Good

Dragon House – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno7:20 PM

Admit it–every time you dine at a Chinese restaurant, you peruse the Chinese Zodiac paper placemats at your table describing the characteristics of people based on their birth year. Every new year of the lunar calendar is represented in Chinese mythology by one of twelve animals, only one of which is mythological. That would be the dragon. People born on the year of the dragon are considered very fortunate as presumably a long, happy life awaits those with a dragon birth year. So that you don’t have to look it up, the last six years of the dragon were 2012, 2000, 1988, 1976, 1964 and 1952. If you were born before 1952, simply subtract 12. Long before Hungarian Horntails, Swedish Short-Snouts and Norwegian Ridgebacks ran roughshod over the wizarding world of Harry Potter, giant-winged, fire-breathing reptiles were carving a niche in the rich history of China. Unlike the malevolent maiden-stealing, village trashing, knight incinerating creatures of old European mythology, dragons in China were viewed as benevolent entities capable of bringing rain to a parched land. The dragon signified power, strength and good luck. Starting with the Han Dynasty (206BC – 220AD), Chinese emperors assumed the symbolism of the dragon, hoping…

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Nena’s Food – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED*)

Gil Garduno11:39 AM

“The restaurant business, as I well know, ain’t no picnic. And in Mexico City, it’s particularly rough.” ~Anthony Bourdain NOTE:  Although its brick-and-mortar shuttered its doors in 2022, Nena’s Food now exists as a food truck.  You can find it parked “Somewhere in New Mexico.” With an urban area population of almost 22-million over a broad expanse of 573 square miles, Mexico City is the fifth most populous city in the world and the most heavily populated city in North America. Known as Distrito Federal, or the federal district, it is the country’s economic and cultural hub, as well as home to the offices of the federal government. A true megalopolis, Mexico City boasts of some 15,000 restaurants including two restaurants ranked among the world’s fifty best restaurants in 2019 and eleven of Latin America’s 50 top-ranked restaurants.  By any measure, Mexico City is one of the world’s greatest eating cities.  Whether in pursuit of cosmopolitan fine dining, incomparable street food or market stalls showcasing agrarian bounty, you’ll find it in this culinary Mecca.  You’ll uncover both time-honored recipes–some predating Cortez–passed down through the generations as well as a globally-influenced fusion of ingredients and techniques.  You’ll relish dishes with unique…

AlbuquerqueAsianFusionHawaiianLatin AmericanNew MexicoRating: Excellent

Poki Poki Cevicheria – Albuquerque, New. Mexico

Gil Garduno12:41 AM

Having settled comfortably into middle age (perpetually 39-years old), my favorite participatory sports of basketball and tennis have been replaced by more sedentary, safe and slothful pursuits. Instead of getting my shot rejected (almost as often as the cheerleaders in Peñasco spurned my offers of a burger at Victor’s Drive-in), I now delight in catching every grammatical faux pas, malapropism and inaccuracy uttered by the media–not a difficult challenge since the legendary and near infallible anchor Dick Knipfing retired. Instead of double-faulting on my serve eighteen times in a row, it’s answering questions which stump Jeopardy contestants that now gets my adrenaline pumping. Alas, as a fogey who believes music died in the 70s pop culture questions are my downfall.   I could not, for example, answer a question about Hollywood heartthrob Ryan Gosling but count among my very favorite people, the Albuquerque Adonis, Ryan “Break the Chain” Scott.  Another case in point, “Barney the Purple Dinosaur” was my answer to a recent question about a video game franchise from Japan. The correct answer, of course, was Pokemon. Pokemon? I could have answered nearly all there is to know about Poke, the Hawaiian culinary craze that’s sweeping the mainland, but had…

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Kamikaze Kitchen – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno9:02 AM

NOTE: In early January, 2024, Kamikaze announce the closure of its brick-and-mortar location. The owner said increasing rent and years of vandalism played a large role in the decision. In the 1970s and 1980s, Reese’s Peanut Butter cups commercials consisted of a series of vignettes. Each vignette depicted the collision of two daydreamers–one eating peanut butter and the other eating chocolate. The peanut butter eater would exclaim “you got chocolate on my peanut butter.” The one eating chocolate would retort “you got peanut butter on my chocolate.” The two would then sample the mix of chocolate and peanut butter and burst out in wide-eyed surprise with “Delicious!” A godlike narrator would then proclaim “Two great tastes that taste great together.” My mention of “fusion cuisine” once brought about the retort “you mean like chocolate and peanut butter” from my former colleague Matt Mauler.  For Matt that magical melding of chocolate and peanut butter is probably as far as he would ever go in culinary exploration.  My counter-argument fell on deaf ears–that cuisine across the world has been made significantly more interesting by the intermingling of culinary cultures.  Moreover, I argued, the convergence of cooking techniques, spices, ingredients and recipes has…

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AK Pizza – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno1:36 AM

“I hate it. I think it’s an abomination. There are so many awesome things here, I don’t know why that should be featured. It’s leading with your weakness. So much other great stuff.” ~Anthony Bourdain What could have rankled the ire of the world renowned celebrity chef, master raconteur and social activist?  Was it an injustice in dire need of exorcising?  Dystopian horrors in a faraway third-world country?  Devaluation of life?  Bringing to light those suffering in the dark?  No, my friends.  It wasn’t the broken world Bourdain railed against.  It was something much more apolitical…unless you’re talking about the politics of pizza, specifically between the warring factions of New York and Chicago.  What Bourdain found so appalling was Chicago’s deep-dish pizza. Chicago deep-dish pizza is the Rodney Dangerfield of pizza.  Outside the Windy City, it gets no respect.  Cynics malign it as “not a pizza.” Others, such as Bourdain and former “Daily Show,” host Jon Stewart simply love to hate it.  In a particularly vitriolic rant, Stewart called it everything from a “fricking casserole” to “an above-ground marinara swimming pool for rats” and worse, much worse.  He suggested it would be complete with canned onion rings on top.  Even…