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Closed in 2010Gone But Not ForgottenNevadaPeruvianUnited States

The Paradise Grill – Las Vegas, Nevada (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno12:10 AM

Americans spent several billion dollars a year on products touting their ability to provide fresh breath.  Ultrabrite toothpaste promises to “give your mouth sex appeal” while Colgate’s Oxygen toothpaste’s slogan is “Pure, Fresh, Clean.”  Fresh breath is so important to our culture that we even insist our pets have it. Milk Bone Dog Biscuits pledge to “freshen breath naturally” so of course, we buy that product in bulk for our four-legged children. Fresh breath, it seems, translates (at least on humans) to a “cool, minty sensation with no mediciny taste” if commercials are to be believed. It’s unlikely dogs would appreciate having minty breath, preferring instead something smelling with the aroma of rotted carcass.  So why this digression into the emphasis our culture places on fresh breath when this is supposed to be a review of a Peruvian restaurant in Las Vegas, Nevada. The answer can be found in one word–ceviche. The ceviche at the Paradise Grill is so fresh and invigorating that it will impart upon your mouth, a sensation of freshness that may last for hours. I’ve had ceviche on three continents and it has varied in quality and memorability. None has impressed itself on my taste buds…

ChineseNevadaRating: N/R (Not Rated)United States

Ping Pang Pong – Las Vegas, Nevada

Gil Garduno12:27 AM

The complaint I hear most often about the Duke City dining scene is that we have a lamentable lack of quality Chinese restaurants. This is a sentiment that’s been echoed ad-infinitum on Chowhound and other restaurant blogs. In my years of reviewing Duke City restaurants, I’ve deemed only nine Chinese restaurants worthy of taking up space on my Web site. Considering Chinese restaurants outnumber those of any ethnicity other than New Mexican, that’s not a good sign. I’ve tried dozens of Chinese restaurants in New Mexico (and continue to try them in hopes of finding a rare hidden gem), but only a few have the qualities I like in Chinese restaurants. Fewer still are those which execute consistently from visit to visit. Now, it would be easy (and fun) to wax mean about the things I didn’t like about each of those Chinese restaurants–and it might even be a service to my readers, but that negativity could be summed up in a few points. What I dislike most about Chinese restaurants–not just in New Mexico–is their homogeneity–the boring, stereotypical “sameness” that seems to typify each restaurant. It’s as if a sole template was created that defines how each Chinese restaurant…

AlbuquerqueClosed in 2008ContinentalGone But Not ForgottenNew Mexico

The Cup – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno10:19 AM

Buxom silent screen siren Mae West was so renown for her use of double entendre that she once said, “If I asked for a cup of coffee, someone would ask for the double meaning.” When my wife suggested we have breakfast at The Cup, I wondered what she really had in mind. The Cup, after all, did not impress her in the least during our inaugural visit in January, 2007. It was even worse for me as The Cup’s emptiness triggered memories of a dark day in the late 70s when I was the recipient of bad news (the “Dear John” kind) at the only restaurant I can remember as empty as The Cup that night–a long defunct Burger Chef. Considering The Cup was sister restaurant to the popular Gold Street Caffe, the emptiness seemed like something out of the Twilight Zone. We’re talking the Gold Street Caffe here–one of downtown Duke City’s darling dining destinations, the restaurant with the very best bacon (the thick cut honey chile glazed marvel) in the world. We’re also talking the Pan American frontage road area within easy walking distance to the Century 24 theater. All the restaurants clustered in this area and their…

AlbuquerqueClosed in 2010Gone But Not ForgottenNew Mexican

Barb’s Place – Albuquerque, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno12:09 AM

To everything there is a season and a time to every purpose under heaven. – Ecclesiastes 3:1-8 These lyrical words from the King James version of the Holy Bible have been attributed to the most sagacious of Jewish monarchs, King Solomon. They have been recited, sung and published in numerous prayers, songs and books. The words posit that there is a time and place for all things–even cumin. I’ve been accused of making my Web site a bully pulpit against cumin (more than once referred to on my site as “the accursed despoiler of New Mexican chile.”) Perhaps it’s true that I’ve been a bit tough on cumin, a pungent spice with a distinctive salty-sweet flavor, but my rail against that spice is solely where New Mexican food (red chile in particular) is concerned. Cumin is one of the most frequently used spices in Indian food, gracing many a wonderful Indian curry dish. In combination with other sublime Indian spices, its redolence is smoky, maybe even musky, and always evocative. Why then my contempt for cumin on chile? It’s simple! Red chile needs absolutely no amelioration. Unadulterated, it is absolute perfection just as nature intended. Cumin tends to give chile…

AlbuquerqueNew Mexican

Richard’s Mexican Restaurant – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno2:46 AM

In 2006 and 2007, the CalorieLab compiled the “fattest state” rankings based on a risk factor assessment provided by the Center for Disease Control (CDC) and Prevention. CalorieLab determined an overall increase in obesity in all states but California.  Garnering the discomfiting dishonor as the fattest state in the union two years in a row was Mississippi. The Magnolia State was the first state ever in which two-thirds of its citizenry or higher were either overweight or obese by CDC standards. Our neighbor to the north, Colorado, ranked as the leanest state in the fruited plain two years running despite the percentage of its citizens now considered obese climbing to 17.6 percent. In many national ratings involving education, health care and other quality of life measures tracked, the Land of Enchantment seems to fall in the ignominious neighborhood of Mississippi. I had expected the stout girth of our citizens to approximate the voluminous magnitude of the Deep South state’s rotund residents since statistics usually place us in the same neighborhood. Surprisingly, New Mexico was far distanced from Mississippi, ranking as the 42nd fattest state–or 8th leanest state if you prefer. By CDC standards, 59.8 percent of the state’s citizenry is…

AlbuquerqueJapaneseRating: N/R (Not Rated)Sushi

Sushi King – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno3:15 AM

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I– I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference. – Robert Frost The path to becoming a sushi aficionado is, in some ways, an assertion of individualism. You might also consider it an expression in audacity. Sushi, as most of us know, is not for everyone. Even the decision to try it the first time can be daunting. Some otherwise intrepid diners will never even get that far, the notion of consuming “raw fish” being too extreme for them. Some will take the safe path and partake primarily or exclusively of “cooked” sushi, grilled fish enrobed in tempura batter and served warm. Others, like my friend Maui Brian, take almost masochistic pleasure in dousing their sushi with wasabi incendiary enough to stream tears down their cheeks and leave them coughing and sputtering at every bite. Still, others like Duke City Food’s adventurous blogger Andrea Lin are absolutely fearless, delighting in sampling sushi only the most broad-minded sushiphiles can appreciate. Think uni, the edible part of the sea urchin, a spiny echinoderm. I also know sushi lovers who are base traditionalists. They shutter at the “spurious” nature of…

AlbuquerqueMariscosMexicanRating: Good

Ruben’s Grill – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno3:40 AM

During the Mexican Revolution of 1910, many women joined the army both in response to the tremendous need for their service, but also to accompany their husbands, many of whom were conscripted into service. Traveling with the revolutionary armies, it was often the role of women to forage for food and cook meals. As much as possible, the women who followed the armies tried to provide a homey meal experience complete with tablecloth, decorative plates and vases for flowers. As soldaderas, their contributions to the Mexican Revolutionary were not limited to “traditional” roles of the time–serving as caregivers and as cooks. Many women distinguished themselves on the battlefield and are today remembered in such songs as La Adelita. It was a bit of a disappointment not to see any of these women celebrated on the sunflower colored walls of Ruben’s Grill, a popular Northeast Heights Mexican restaurant whose walls are adorned with black and white posters of the heroes of the Mexican Revolution. My favorite of the lot is a “Wanted” poster issued in 1916 by the Columbus, New Mexico chief of police who offered a $5,000 reward for the capture of Francisco “Panco” Villa. History will recall that the…

AlbuquerqueBuffetIndian

Taj Palace – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno3:57 AM

Indian cuisine is one of the world’s most diverse and sophisticated cuisines, fashioned over time by ancient traditions, diversity of religion, climatic variety and the influence of neighboring countries.  It is so diverse, in fact, that the characterization “Indian cuisine” would be wholly inaccurate. There are more Indian cuisines than there are regions in this ethnically diverse subcontinent comprising 17.5 percent of the world’s population. While categorization by geographical region–North Indian, South Indian, East Indian and West Indian–is prevalent, such groupings are at least partially exclusionary of cuisines whose basis is religious, especially the Hindu and Muslim faiths.  One of the great things about being an aficionado of Indian cuisine is that we can appreciate both its tremendous diversity and the unifying threads that make it one of the world’s great cuisines. One commonality is the wide range of spices which produce its inimitable aromas and flavors. Indian restaurants have long graced the Duke City dining scene, albeit in relatively small numbers compared to restaurants of other ethnicities.   A commonality among most Albuquerque Indian restaurants is the ubiquitous presence of the buffet. Buffets are more responsible for introducing diners to Indian cuisines than any other factor. This is evidenced by…

AmericanBrunchClosed in 2013Gone But Not ForgottenNew MexicoSanta Fe

Eldorado Court – Santa Fe, New Mexico (CLOSED)

Gil Garduno8:21 PM

In Spanish, the word Eldorado translates to “the gilded one” or the “golden one” and refers to an imaginary place of great wealth and opportunity sought in South America by 16th-century explorers. In Santa Fe, Eldorado means a stately landmark hotel just off the historic Plaza in which guests are graced by the art of hospitality in lavish accommodations. The heart of the hotel is the Eldorado Court, located just off the main lobby. During our first visit in 2005, the Eldorado Court was “guarded” by two multi-hued, bigger than life coyotes (the type that helped define Santa Fe style years ago). Those coyotes have been repositioned onto ledges where they still remain in vigilant watch. On Sundays, Eldorado Court hosts one of the very best brunches in Santa Fe, a sumptuous buffet that might have quelled the Spanish explorers’ lust for gold and supplanted it with a yearning for Sunday mornings. A Bacchanalian feast of dining extravagance features bounteous spreads of thematically arranged tables showcasing such brunch delights as seafood, salads, fruits and cheeses, desserts and oh so much more. You’ll be tempted to camp out at any one of these culinary stations, but there’s so much you’ll miss…

AlbuquerqueMexicanNew Mexico Culinary Treasures TrailRating: Very Good

El Modelo – Albuquerque, New Mexico

Gil Garduno3:25 PM

Growing up in the 60s in a bucolic village in Northern New Mexico, we had no idea about such things as political correctness and multi-culturalism. It would be decades before the ascendency of the “woke” movement.  My friends included descendents of Montezuma, scions of the Spanish explorers, Native Americans from a nearby Pueblo and even a few “white” kids.  None of us really thought about things like “inclusion” and “diversity.”  We lived it! Being kids, there was naturally a lot of good-natured name-calling and teasing, but even when tempers flared, I can’t recall racial stereotype-based derogatory terms ever used in anger.  We thought nothing of teasing the “rich” white kids about their “white as them” Rainbo bread sandwiches and they retorted in kind with insults about the “poor” kids and their chicharones and chile engorged tortillas. We were teased that “Mexican” (then a collective term for all Hispanics) children received tamales for Christmas so they would have something to open on Christmas morning.  Rather than think it offensive and racist, we laughed and tried to one-up with something better. It wasn’t until years later that we found out we were supposed to be offended by race-based stereotypes and insults.  It brought…

ItalianNew MexicoRating: N/R (Not Rated)Santa Fe

Osteria d’Assisi – Santa Fe, New Mexico

Gil Garduno1:33 PM

Historians have characterized the discovery, exploration, and colonization of the Americas in the late fifteenth and sixteenth centuries as having had three express purposes: glory, gold and God. This holds true in New Mexico where Spanish Explorers may have come for glory and gold, but finding neither, stayed for God.  Believing the large population of native peoples needed to hear the Gospel, the Spaniards established New Mexico first as a colony then as a mission. The effort to Christianize the native peoples was led by Franciscans, known then as the Sons of St. Francis of Assisi.  The sandal-shod Franciscans carried the Gospel throughout the Indian pueblos, indelibly imprinting Franciscan spirituality into the fabric and soul of New Mexico’s Catholicism. Evidence of their spirituality remains in the large population of Roman Catholics in New Mexico today, but also in the names given to villages throughout the state. One example is La Villa Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco, translated from Spanish to The Royal Village of the Holy Faith of Saint Francis of Assisi, shortened to Santa Fe. In addition to being the patron saint of Santa Fe, Saint Francis is the patron saint of animals, birds and the…